2000 Chrysler Concorde

I HAVE BEEN HAVING PROBLEMS WITH MY DOOR LOCKS FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. WHEN I PRESS THE BUTTON TO LOCK OR UNLOCK IT WILL NOT WORK AND IT MAKES A LOUD NOISE.I HAVE TO UNLOCK THE DOORS BY HAND. I HAVE CHECKED WITH MY MECHANIC AND HE TELLS ME ITS PROBABLY THE MOTOR AND IT WOULD HAVE TO BE REPLACED IN EACH DOOR AT ABOUT $150.00 EACH DOOR. I BOUGHT MY CAR NEW IN 2000 I LOVE THE CAR BUT HATE THIS PROBLEM.

DOOR LOCKS: CONSUMER HEARD A NOISE COMING FORM THE FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE. THE BACK DOOR LOCKED DRIVERS SIDE. CONSUMER CANNOT OPEN DOOR MANUALLY, BUT IT OPENS WITH THE REMOTE CONTROL. THE FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE AND PASSENGER SIDE WILL NOT UNLOCK MANUALLY OR WITH THE REMOTE CONTROL. *AK FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR MADE NOISE, AND REAR DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR FROZE AND COULD NOT BE OPENED BY REMOTE OR MANUALLY. CONSUME RCONSIDERED THIS A SERIOUS SAFETY PROBLEM IN CASE OF A COLLISION WITH INJURY PASSENGERS WOULD NOT BE ABLE TO EXIT VEHICLE. *AK

THE DOOR LOCKS TEND NOT TO UNLOCK, MAKING IT DIFFICULT FOR THE CONSUMER TO GET OUT OF VEHICLE. CONSUMER NOTIFIED THE MANUFACTURER. *AK THE PASSENGER HAD TO SLIDE ACROSS TO THE DRIVERS SIDE TO EXIT THE VEHICLE. ATTEMPTS TO OPEN THE DOOR WITH THE KEY AND MANUAL LOCK FAILED. LOCK WAS REPLACED. REAR PASSENGER HAD TO SLIDE ACROSS TO THE DRIVERS SIDE PASSENGER DOOR TO EXIT THE VEHICLE. THE LOCK MOTOR WAS REPLACED AND A LOUD BUZZ NOISE CAME FROM THE LOCK MOTOR FOR A FEW DAYS AFTER INSTALLATION. LOCK DOES NOT LOCK AUTOMATICALLY. *TC

I HAVE SEVERAL RATHER EXPENSIVE FAILING ITEMS ON MY CAR INCLUDING RECURRING ISSUES: HAD TO REPLACE THE R/P STEERING AT 65,000 MILES STEERING RACK HAD EXCESSIVE PLAY AT THE 'NEUTRAL' OR STRAIGHT POSITION; THE MOLDING AROUND ALL DOORS HAS PULLED AWAY FROM THE BODY OF THE CAR; REAR DOOR LOCKS NEED TO BE REPLACED DUE TO ELECTRICAL PROBLEM; LEFT TAILLIGHT GASKET LEAKS HAS RUINED INTERIOR OF THE CAR; PLASTIC TRIM AT THE BASE OF MY WINDSHIELD IS FLAPPING IN THE WIND; REPLACED STABILIZER BAR ENDS; ENGINE COOLANT OUTLET HOUSING WAS REPLACED DUE TO A LEAK FROM THE VENT FITTING - AND TO DATE I HAVE AT LEAST 3 MORE THINGS WE HAVE TO LOOK AT BEFORE I CAN SELL THIS HEEP.*AK

2000 CHRYSLER CONCORD - IN THE PAST 3 YEARS DOOR RELAYS (CONTROL LOCKS AND POWER WINDOWS) HAVE FAILED 4 TIMES IN MY CAR. THE SERVICE ADVISOR AT A CHRYSLER DEALERSHIP KNEW THE PART AND COST AS SOON AS I STARTED TO DESCRIBE MY PROBLEM. SHE STATED THAT THIS WAS A CONDITION SHE WAS VERY FAMILIAR WITH. MY PRIVATE SERVICE CENTER ALSO WAS FAMILIAR WITH THIS FAILURE. WHEN THESE COMPONETS FAIL; POWER WINDOS WON'T WORK AND DOORS CAN'T BE ELECTRICALLY UNLOCKED. I BELIEVE THIS CONDITION PRESENTS A SERIOUS SAFETY CONDITION. IF INDEED THERE IS A RECOGNIZABLE FAILURE RATE OF THESE COMPONENTS THE PROBLEM NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED. THE POSSIBLE RESULTS ARE THAT PEOPLE STAND TO BE TRAPPED IN CRASHED OR BURNING VEHICLES.*AK

AUTOMATIC DOOR LOCKS DO NOT OPERATE PROPERLY. WHEN UNLOCK LEVER IS USED, THE LOCKS DO NOT UNLOCK AND THE INDIVIDUAL UNLOCK BUTTOM ON EACH DOOR MUST BE PULLED UP. HOWEVER, YOU CANNOT PULL UP THESE BUTTOMS UNTIL THE AUTOMATIC UNLOCK LEVER IS FIRST ACTIVATED.THIS REPRESENTS A SAFETY HAZZARD BECAUSE THE REAR DOORS CANNOT BE OPENED BY SOMEONE SEATED IN THE REAR SEATS UNLESS SOMEONE PUSHES THE AUTOMATIC UNLOCK LEVER LOCATED ON THE FRONT TWO DOORS. IN ADDITION, THE FRONT DRIVER'S DOOR LOCK CANNOT BE LOCKED UNTIL THE AUTOMATIC DOOR LOCKING LEVER IS FIRST PUSHED TO LOCK AND THEN THE DOOR BUTTON MUST BE PUSHED DOWN MANUALLY. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE STEPS WOULD ENABLE AN INTRUDER TO OPEN THE DOOR FROM THE OUTSIDE.