2013 Mazda CX-5

WHEN TURNING OFF ENG, VIA PRESSING THE ELECTRONIC START/STOP BUTTON. THE RADIO STAYS ON. UNLESS YOU PRESS THE BUTTON TO TURN ON THE ACCESSORIES, THEN PRESSING BRAKE DOWN, THEN MOVING THE AUTOMATIC SHIFT LEVER FROM PARK TO DRIVE, TO PARK AGAIN AND PRESSING THE START/STOP BUTTON AGAIN, THEN THE RADIO WILL TURN OFF. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR MANY MONTHS.

CAR SOMETIMES WILL NOT TURN OFF AUXILIARY POWER WHEN PUT IN PARK AND ENGINE IS TURNED OFF. RADIO AND AUXILIARY FUNCTIONS CONTINUE TO RUN. I NEED TO START ENGINE, MOVE CAR BACK AND FORTH TWO OR MORE TIMES, PUT IN PARK AND PUSH IGNITION BUTTON AGAIN TO TOTALLY SHUT OFF POWER. THIS MAY HAPPEN SEVERAL TIMES A DAY, THEN NOT OCCUR FOR WEEKS AT A TIME. MY CAR IS ALWAYS PARKED ON A LEVEL SURFACE WHEN THIS HAPPENS, I AM POSITIVE THE CAR IS IN PARK, AND TYPE OF WEATHER DOESN'T SEEM TO BE AN ISSUE.IT SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM WITH MAZDA VEHICLES, AND I HAVE SEEN A LOT OF POSTS ON THE INTERNET OF PEOPLE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. MY MAZDA DEALER TOLD MY MECHANIC THAT THEY HAVE HAD SEVERAL CARS IN ONE WEEK COME IN WITH THIS COMPLAINT.

FAILURE TO START. WHEN I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP THEY SAID THE ISSUE WAS THAT I NEEDED A NEW BREAK SWITCH AND I HAD CORRODED WIRES ON THE RIGHT SIDE. I HAVE A VIDEO OF MY ISSUE. HTTPS://YOUTU.BE/DFYWAGVKAVU THE DEALERSHIP SAID THAT THESE WERE KNOWN ISSUES BUT NO RECALLS HAVE BEEN ISSUED. THE VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY AT TIME OF ISSUE. I MAY NEED TO HAVE THE DEALERSHIP RE PRINT MY INVOICE, I DIDN'T SEE IT IN MY FILES. MY VEHICLE IS A 2013 AND THIS ISSUE WAS IN 2016. WIRES SHOULD NOT BE CORRODED THIS QUICKLY, MY WARRENTY DID NOT COVER THE WIRES. THIS ISSUE SEEMS DANGEROUS TO ME.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA CX-5. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE SERVICE ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED AND THE VENT FUNCTIONS FAILED FOR THE AIR CONDITIONING AND HEATING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER FOR FURTHER DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER HAD NOT YET BEEN NOTIFIED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 48,541. ..UPDATED 08/31/17 *BF HEATER CORE FAILURE AND FAULTY COOLANT. UPDATED 9/27/18*JB

CHECK ENGINE, TPS, AND TCS LIGHTS COME ON AND VEHICLE STARTS BUCKING AND DECELERATING. PULLED OVER, DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY. DASHBOARD LIGHTS AND BUCKING ARE GONE AT RESTART. ISSUE OCCURRED TWO MORE TIMES IN A SPAN OF A COUPLE DAYS, SO I TOOK IT TO A SHOP. P0101 AND P061B PROBLEMS PRESENT. MAF SENSOR SEEMS FINE. CONTINUES MALFUNCTIONING AFTER OIL CHANGE AND INSPECTION. TAKING TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR REFLASHING.

3 TIMES SINCE PCM RECALL WAS COMPLETED- I HAVE BEEN DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY 65MPH, SUDDENLY FEEL REDUCTION IN POWER, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, LOW TIRE PRESSURE LIGHTS AND TRACTIONS STABILTY WARNING LIGHTS COME ON. WHEN THE CAR IS TURNED OFF, AND RESTARTED LIGHTS GO OUT EXCEPT CHECK ENGINE AND CAR DRIVES NORMAL. BY THE TIME I GET TO PEPBOYS THEY ARE UNABLE TO FIND A CAUSE AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT GOES OFF.

WHEN DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 65MPH OR SOMETIMES LESS THE TIRE PRESSURE, TRACTION CONTROL, EMERGENCY LIGHT COMES ON. THE CAR SEEMS TO LOSE POWER AND SHUT DOWN. IT HAPPENS COUNTLESS TIME TWICE WITH MY TWO-YEAR-OLD DAUGHTER ON THE HIGHWAY. WHEN I TAKE IT TO THE MECHANIC THEY RUN DIAGNOSTICS TEST AND CAN'T PICK UP ANY CODES. BECAUSE ITS NOT DUPLICATING ANY ISSUE THEY RETURN THE CAR TO ME AFTER THEY RESET ALL THE COMPUTER. BUT THE ISSUE IS STILL NOT RESOLVED. I WOULD LOSE POWER TO THE CAR AND MY BRAKES ARE SOMETIMES NOT RESPONSIVE. I WOULD COAST WITH MY EMERGENCY LIGHT ON UNTIL I CAN STOP MY CAR. SOMETIME MY HAZARDS LIGHT WOULD FREQUENTLY FLASH AT A FAST SPEED THAN STOP. I TOOK IT TO TWO MAZDA DEALERSHIP TO SEE IF THEY CAN HAVE RESOLVED THE ISSUE BUT THEY CANNOT DUPLICATED WHAT GOING ON. I DID SOME RESEARCH ON MY OWN AND FOUND COUNTLESS COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE SAME ISSUE I'M HAVING AND NO MECHANIC CAN FIGURE OUT THE ISSUE THIS CAR IS JUNK. THIS HAVE STARTED THE FIRST WEEK ON DEC. 2016 IT HAS BEEN IN TWO SHOP OVER THE PAST 4 MONTH. THE FIRST SHOP I TOOK IT TO HAD IT FOR A WHOLE MONTH AND THE SECOND SHOP HAD IT FOR TWO WEEK. AT ONE POINT WHEN I WAS TOLD MY CAR WAS FIX I CAME TO PICK IT UP. THE CAR WOULD NOT START AT ALL IT WAS NOT EVEN READING MY KEYS. THE CAR DOES NOT HAVE 100K MILES ON IT. I DON'T DO A LOT OF DRIVING. THIS IS HAZARDOUS

SINCE LAST RECALL REPAIR MY CX-5 IS EXPERIENCING MAJOR PROBLEMS. IT WILL RANDOMLY NOT START. I GET IN AND DEPRESS BRAKE PEDAL, BUT START BUTTON WILL NOT LIGHT GREEN AND CAR WON'T START, EVEN AFTER CHANGING BATTERY IN KEY FOB. THE DASHBOARD LIGHTS (ALL OF THEM) WILL COME ON AND FLASH, THEN GO AWAY. THE OTHER ISSUE IS THAT THE TRANSMISSION WILL NOT ENGAGE AFTER CAR HAS STARTED. CAR IS STARTED AND IN PARK. I DEPRESS THE BRAKE AND TRY TO PUT THE CAR INTO GEAR (DRIVE) BUT THE SHIFTER REFUSES TO MOVE AT ALL. PUMPING THE BRAKE DOES NOT WORK, DEPRESSING THE BRAKE ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR DOES NOT WORK. THERE IS NOT A PARTICULAR SEQUENCE OF ACTIONS THAT WILL GET THE CAR TO GO INTO GEAR. THE ONLY REMEDY I HAVE FOUND IS TO TURN THE CAR OFF AND LET IT SIT FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD OF TIME. WHEN DRIVING THE CAR AFTER THIS HAS HAPPENED, IF I USE REVERSE AND THEN PUT IT INTO DRIVE, THE CAR JUMPS FORWARD WITHOUT MY FOOT BEING ON THE GAS PEDAL AND THEN THE LIGHTS ON THE DASHBOARD FOR TIRE AND TCS COME ON.

FOR THE PAST 5 MONTHS MY CAR WILL APPEAR TO HAVE SHUT DOWN WHILE DRIVING. I WAS DRIVING ON CITY STREETS GOING ABOUT 15 - 45 MPH. I WORK FROM HOME OR GO TO THE OFFICE TWICE A WEEK. I DRIVE MY KIDS TO SCHOOL DURING THE WEEK. I DON'T DO MUCH COMMUTING. ALL ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS SHUT DOWN THEN REBOOT WITHIN SECONDS, AND THE CAR MAKES BEEPING SOUNDS LIKE I JUST STARTED THE CAR. THE CAR WILL NOT STOP OR SLOW DOWN, BUT IF I COME TO A COMPLETE STOP AT A LIGHT, THE CAR WILL BE VERY SLOW TO ACCELERATE BUT I CAN GET IT BACK UP TO THE SPEED LIMIT AFTER A VERY SLOW START. I HAVE CALLED AAA ON ONE OCCASION AND TOOK IT TO A SHOP ON ANOTHER OCCASION. THEY BOTH SAY IT IS BATTERY RELATED DUE TO THE WRONG BATTER BEING INSTALLED BUT IT IS THE BATTERY SIZE IN THE SYSTEM OF AN ORIELYS AUTO PARTS STORE. EVERY TIME I REPLACE THE BATTERY AND THE ISSUE APPEARS TO GO AWAY FOR A COUPLE WEEKS TO A MONTH. THE LAST BATTERY REPLACEMENT I PURCHASED A STRONGER BATTER THAN IN THEIR SYSTEM AS PER THE ADVISEMENT FROM THE AUTO SHOP. IT SEEMED TO FIX IT AGAIN BUT AFTER A MONTH THE CAR DID THE SAME THING. *TR

DOOR LOCKS FAILING. PASSENGER SIDE DOOR LOCK HAS FAILED TWICE: ONCE DUE TO LOCK ARM MISALIGNED AND NOW HAS JUST FAILED AGAIN. THE REAR HATCH HAS FAILED FOUR TIMES WITHIN MONTH. HAVE HAD DEALER REPLACE DOOR LOCK, BATTERY AND REAR CONTROL BOARD. THE ONLY WAY TO GET INTO HATCH IS WITH FOB, AS THERE IS NO KEY SLOT SO UNABLE TO OPEN REAR HATCH. THE CAR IS IN FLORIDA AND IS PARKED OUTSIDE.