2007 Honda CR-V

REAR DRIVER DOOR NOT LOCKING. WHEN ALL THE DOORS ARE LOCKED EITHER USING THE REMOTE OR THE MASTER DRIVER DOOR LOCK BUTTON, THE REAR DRIVER DOOR RETURNS TO THE UNLOCKED STATE WITHIN ONE SECOND OF LOCKING. IT CANNOT BE LOCKED MANUALLY AND DOES NOT REMAIN LOCKED IF THE BUTTON IS MANUALLY HELD IN PLACE. I HAVE READ VARIOUS COMPLAINTS OF THE DOOR LOCKING SYSTEM BECOMING FAULTY. WHY WON'T HONDA TAKE OWNERSHIP AND DO A RECALL! I AM UNFAIRLY HAVING TO SPEND ALMOST $250 TO GET THE ACTUATOR REPLACED. DOOR LOCKS SHOULD COME WITH A LIFETIME WARRANTY JUST LIKE SEAT BELTS! THIS IS CAUSING A THEFT HAZARD AS WELL AS A SAFETY HAZARD FOR MY CHILD RIDING IN THE BACK SEAT! *TR

AT APPROX; 75000 MILES THE RIGHT FRONT DOOR LOCK STARTED MAKING A VERY LOUD CHATTERING NOISE WHEN YOU USED YOUR KEY REMOTE TO UNLOCK OR TO LOCK.WHEN THE VEHICLE REACHED 10 MPH DURING EXCELLERATING AND DECELLERATING THIS WOULD ALSO HAPPEN. NOW THE DRIVER SIDE REAR PASSENGER DOOR LOCK IS DOING THE SAME THING.I'M AFRAID TO LET A CHILD RIDE IN THE BACK SEAT OR THE FRONT PASSENGER SEAT.I WAS CHECKING ONLINE FOR ANYTHING ABOUT THIS PROBLEM AND CAME ACROSS A INTERESTING WEB SITE THAT YOUR DEPT; NEEDS TO LOOK AT.THERE ARE MANY OTHER CR-V OWNERS WITH THIS SAME COMPLAINT. EDMUNDS.COM>SUVS>.HONDA CR-V>HONDA POWER DOOR LOCKS. THIS FORUM HAS SOME PRETTY CONSISTENT COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE HONDA CR-V DOOR LOCKS AND THERE RELEVENT SAFETY. *TR

VEHICLE BEGAN RESETTING DOOR LOCKS WHENEVER VEHICLE ACCELERATED THROUGH 7 OR 8 MPH FROM STOP. AFTER AWHILE, DRIVER SIDE FRONT AND BACK DOORS WOULD NOT LOCK AUTOMATICALLY AND INTERMITTENTLY THE DRIVER DOOR COULD NOT BE MANUALLY LOCKED (HEAVY RESISTANCE WHEN TRYING TO FLIP LATCH). ON A LESS FREQUENT BASIS, THE PASSENGER SIDE REAR DOOR WOULD NOT AUTO OR MANUALLY LOCK. FOR LAST SEVERAL MONTHS THE DOOR LOCK SOLENOIDS FIRE LIKE A MACHINE GUN WHENEVER THE DOORS ARE MANUALLY OR AUTOMATICALLY LOCKED. SOME TIMES THEY ALL LOCK, OTHER TIMES ONE OR MORE OF THE DOORS WON'T. TOLERATED FOR MANY MONTHS AS DEALER WOULDN'T FIX UNDER WARRANTY EVEN THOUGH ONLY 1000 MILES AND A FEW DAYS PAST 12MO/36K COVERAGE AND DIDN'T WANT TO PAY DEALER ESTIMATED FIX AT UP TO 800 DOLLARS. NOW STARTING TO PICK UP GRANDCHILDREN FOR AFTER SCHOOL CARE AND NEED TO FIX. SEEMS THIS PROBLEM HAS ENOUGH COMPLAINTS TO WARRANT RECALL? *TR

CAR WOULD NOT START:NO ENGINE TURNING, NO LIGHTS, ETC. THOUGHT I HAD A DEAD BATTERY, LOCKED CAR TO GET HELP (VIA KEY FOB) AND LIGHTS WENT ON ACKNOWLEDGING IT LOCKED. TRIED TO START CAR AGAIN AND IT STARTED FINE. RADIO WAS BLINKING AND HAD TO ENTER RADIO SECURITY CODE LIKE THE BATTERY HAD BEEN DISCONNECTED. DROVE CAR HOME WITH NO FURTHER PROBLEMS. THIS MORNING CAR WOULD NOT START AGAIN, FOLLOWED THE SAME PROCESS OF LOCKING AND UNLOCKING, LIGHTS COME ON AND CAR WOULD START (NO BLINKING RADIO THOUGH). DROVE INTO WORK, STOPPED AT INTERSECTION. WHEN LIGHT TURNED GREEN, STARTED TO DRIVE (MOVED ABOUT 50 FEET) AND DASHBOARD LIT UP AND THEN CAR STALLED AND TURNED OFF. CAR WOULD NOT START AGAIN. WOULD NOT SHIFT OUT OF PARK. GOOD SAMARITAN MESSED WITH IT AND MANAGED TO GET IT INTO NEUTRAL SO IT COULD BE PUSHED TO SIDE OF ROAD. SAID THE EMERGENCY BRAKE HAD BEEN ENGAGED WHICH IS WHY IT WOULD NOT SHIFT FROM PARK? FROM SIDE OF ROAD CAR STARTED FINE. I DROVE IT HOME WHERE NOW SITS IN THE GARAGE. *TR

BEFORE WE ACTUALLY KNEW WHAT WAS HAPPENING WE NOTICED A BURNING RUBBER SMELL RIGHT AFTER WE GOT MY HONDA CR-V. THOUGHT MAYBE THIS THE WAY IT SMELLS WHEN WE TRAVEL MOUNTAINS. WE LIVE IN A VERY MOUNTAINOUS AREA. FOUND OUT AFTER 83000 THAT THERE ARE NUMEROUS PROBLEMS WITH PREMATURE FAILURE OF AC COMPRESSOR. SO THEN IT HAPPENS THE A C STOPPED WORKING WITHOUT ANY WARNING. THE TEMP OUTSIDE WAS OVER 107 DEGREES. I TOOK THE CAR THE NEAREST GARAGE, NO HONDA DEALERS COULD LOOK AT MY CAR FOR AT LEAST 1 WEEK. SO THE GARAGE I TOOK IT TOO SD THAT THEY NOTICED BLUE ON THE METAL OF THE COMPRESSOR HOUSING AND AROUND THE PULLEY. NO WEAR OR TEARING ON THE BELT THOUGH. THE GARAGE MECHANIC C SD THAT THE BLUE ON THE HOUSING MEANT THAT THE METAL ON THE HOUSING WAS GETTING REALLY HOT, WHICH WOULD ACCT OR THE SMELL OF BURNT RUBBER. I HAVE NOT HAD REPAIRED BECAUSE MY GARAGE CANNOT FIND AN AC COMPRESSOR IN NORTH AMERICA. SO LUCKILY NO ACCIDENTS OR FIRES BUT TO ME THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD. *TR

2007 HONDA AUTOMATIC DOOR LOCKS MALFUNCTION. IN DECEMBER 2010 THE DRIVER SIDE AND THE BACK DOOR BEGAN TO MALFUNCTION. HONDA MADE ME PAY FOR IT AND THEY REIMBURSED 1/2 SINCE I WAS PAST WARRANTY. NOW ITS APRIL 2011 AND HERE I AM AGAIN THE PASSENGER SIDE IS LOCKING THEN POPS OPEN AGAIN. IT WILL NOT STAY LOCKED. I AM AT HONDA AND IT IS GOING TO COST $238.00 TO REPAIR. THIS IS A DEFECT IN THE DOOR LOOKS. IT IS ALSO A SAFETY ISSUE. I FEEL OPEN TO CARJACKERS AS I CANNOT LOCK MY DOORS. I DRIVE CHILDREN AROUND, AND I HAVE NO CAPABILITY OF SECURING MY CAR AND THE ITEMS IN IT. THEY ARE MAKING ME PAY FIRST AND THEN THEY MIGHT REFUND TO ME PART OF THE FEES. I FEEL I SHOULD NOT PAY FOR ANY OF THEIR DEFECTS. I CAN REQUEST THE OLD PART FOR THIS LAST CORRECTION. IF YOU WANT ME TO SEND IT TO YOU. I WAS TOLD THAT THE DEALER SHIP HAD BEEN REPLACING THE DOOR LOCKS. *TR

HONDA CRV 2007 EX 2.4 LITER, 4 CYLINDER. THE CAR DOES NOT START OCCASIONALLY. THE BATTERY IS FINE. STARTER IS OKAY. CHECKED ONLINE FORUM TO FIND THE ISSUE AND FIX. SEVERAL PEOPLE HAVE LOGGED SAME ISSUE ONLINE. DEALERS DON'T KNOW WHAT IS WRONG. HONDA OF AMERICA SAY THAT THERE IS NO PROBLEM. BUT CLEARLY THERE IS SOME ISSUE IN THE ENGINE IMMOBILIZATION OR OTHER ELECTRICAL ISSUE RELATED TO IGNITION. SOME ONE NEED TO DIG IN TO THE ISSUE AND HAVE IT FIXED BY HONDA REGARDLESS OF MILEAGE. TODAY (FRIDAY, MARCH 05, 2010) AGAIN THE VEHICLE DOES NOT START AT ALL. THE BATTERY IS FINE SINCE THE LIGHTS AND RADIO AND OTHER ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS ARE WORKING. SEEMS LIKE THE SOME THING WITH THE IGNITION ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. I HAVE TO TOW AWAY THE VEHICLE TO DEALER AND THEY NEED TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM SINCE IT IS NOT STARTING AT ALL. *TR

THERE IS A WIDESPREAD PROBLEM ON SEVERAL JAPANESE BRANDED CARS WHEN DRIVING AT DUSK. MANY NEWER VEHICLES (HONDA CRV-CIVIC, LEXUS RX-LS, NISSAN VERSA) WITH LED OR ELECTRO-FLUORESCENT INSTRUMENT CLUSTERS ARE LIT ANYTIME THE VEHICLE IS IN OPERATION. THESE VEHICLES MAY NOT BE SET TO OPERATE ON AUTO ON LAMPS. THIS LEADS TO THE ASSUMPTION BY THE DRIVER THAT THE HEADLAMPS AND TAIL LAMPS ARE ON WHEN REALLY THAT MAY NOT BE THE CASE. AFTER NOTICING THIS HAPPEN ON A LOT OF HONDA/TOYOTA/NISSAN CARS OF IN TRAFFIC, I WONDERED WHY THEY HAVE NOT RECALLED SUCH VEHICLES YET. WOULD THERE BE THE POSSIBILITY TO MAKE A REQUIREMENT FOR THESE AUTOMAKERS TO PLACE A WARNING LIGHT TO WARN THEM IN THESE SITUATIONS? IT SEEMS THAT AMERICAN AND EUROPEAN MAKES DON?T HAVE THIS ISSUE. THE PROBLEM ALSO AFFECTS VEHICLES OF JAPANESE NAMEPLATES THAT HAVE DAYTIME RUNNING LAMPS. THIS LOW INTENSITY BEAM ALSO GIVES THE DRIVER THE SENSE THAT THE LAMPS ARE ON, WHEN THEY ARE AT A LOW LEVEL, AND THE REAR TAIL LAMPS ARE ACTUALLY OFF. I HAVE SEEN A LARGE NUMBER OF VEHICLES, WITH DRLS AFTER DUSK WHEN IS IT NOT CLEAR TO THE DRIVER THAT THERE IS A PROBLEM. AFTER RENTING AN 08 NISSAN VERSA, I TOO HAD THIS PROBLEM OCCUR ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS WHEN THE LIT CLUSTER INDICATED TO ME THAT MY LIGHTS WERE ON, BUT IN REALITY, I WAS DRIVING AROUND WITH MY LIGHTS OFF, AND I REALIZED THIS 10 MINUTES AFTER THE FACT. AND I WAS ONLY ABLE TO TELL FROM THE INSIDE OF THE VEHICLE BY TOGGLING THE SWITCH ON/OFF, BECAUSE THERE IS NO FEEDBACK FROM THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER WHEN THESE LAMPS ARE ON OR OFF. THIS IS A PROBLEM THAT SHOULD BE LOOKED INTO AND I HOPE RECALLS CAN BE EFFECTIVELY PROPOSED TO PREVENT INJURIES OR DEATHS FROM HAPPENING, AS I DO FEEL THAT THIS IS A LARGE SAFETY ISSUE THAT THE JAPANESE AUTOMAKERS HAVE OVERLOOKED. THANK YOU FOR YOUR ATTENTION AND SERIOUSNESS OF THIS MATTER. PLEASE COMMENT ON THIS ISSUE, AND HELP ME TRACK IT SO THAT IT DOES REACH THE CORRECT HANDS. *TR