2007 BMW 525I

AT 51000 MILES A RED LIGHT WITH A STEERING WHEEL AND A PADLOCK APPEARED ON THE DASH. THE CAR STARTS AND STEERS OK WITH THE RED STEERING LOCK LIGHT ON. THERE ARE NO MECHANICAL ISSUES WITH THE CAR BUT THE LIGHT AND A MESSAGE STATING GO TO A SAFE PLACE BEFORE TURNING THE CAR OFF. I BROUGHT IT TO THE DEALER AND THEY TELL ME THE WHOLE STEERING COLUMN HAS TO BE REPLACED TO GET RID OF THE RED LIGHT AND THE MESSAGE ON THE NAVIGATION SCREEN. THIS WAS AFTER REPLACING THE STEERING COLUMN SWITCH CLUSTER AT A COST OF $1033.THERE WAS AN INTERNAL FAULT OF THE STEERING SENSOR CAUSING THE ABS LIGHT TO SHOW UP ON THE DASH. APPARENTLY BMW HAS BUILT IN DEFECTS THAT SHOW UP ON THE DASH AS A WARNING LIGHT . THERE ARE NO MECHANICAL PROBLEMS RELATED TO THE WARNING LIGHT BUT A VERY COSTLY FIX TO HAVE THE WARNING LIGHT REMOVED. THE SERVICE ADVISOR AT THE BMW DEALERSHIP SAID HE DIDN'T QUOTE ME ON THE STEERING COLUMN REPLACEMENT BECAUSE IT WASN'T WORTH DOING. SO I AM DRIVING THIS BMW WITH A RED DASH LIGHT SHOWING A STEERING WHEEL AND A PADLOCK WITH A MESSAGE ON THE NAVIGATION SCREEN TELLING ME TO DRIVE TO A SAFE PLACE BEFORE TURNING THE ENGINE OFF BECAUSE THE ENGINE MAY NOT START AGAIN. AFTER GOING ON LINE AND DOING SOME RESEARCH THE STEERING WHEEL/PADLOCK LIGHT ISSUE IS A COMMON PROBLEM. BMW NEEDS TO ISSUE A RECALL ON BOTH OF THESE ITEMS AND REPAIR THEM FREE OF CHARGE WHEN THEY OCCUR. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 525I. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED, "PASSENGER RESTRAINT SYSTEM" WAS DISPLAYED ACROSS THE MESSAGE BOARD. THE FAILURE RECURRED ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE PASSENGER SIDE MAT SENSOR NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS EXCLUDED FROM NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 13V564000 (AIR BAGS). THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 131,000.

TL* TAKATA RECALL. THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 (NA) BMW 525I. THE CONTACT RECEIVED NOTIFICATION OF NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V318000 (AIR BAGS); HOWEVER, THE PART TO DO THE REPAIR WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER EXCEEDED A REASONABLE AMOUNT OF TIME FOR THE RECALL REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE AIR BAG LIGHT ILLUMINATED WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS TURNED ON, AND SOMETIMES REMAINED ILLUMINATED. THE VIN AND FAILURE MILEAGE WERE NOT PROVIDED. PARTS DISTRIBUTION DISCONNECT.

WENT TO REPLACE MY FRONT HEADLAMP BULBS AFTER HEADLAMP FAILURE WHILE OPERATING MY VEHICLE AT NIGHT, ON A WINDING ROAD, IN RURAL TEXAS. MECHANIC PULLED THE "SEALED" HOUSING, AND DISCOVERED THAT THE MAJORITY OF THE WIRES IN THE HEADLAMP ASSEMBLY HAD FAULTY INSULATION. THE INSULATION HAD "FLAKED" OFF TO THE POINT THAT MANY OF THE WIRES WERE EXPOSED, CAUSING A SHORT CIRCUIT, AND FAILURE OF THE HEADLAMP. RESEARCHED THE ISSUE ON MANY FORUMS, AND IT IS A COMMON OCCURRRENCE. REPLACEMENT COSTS OF EACH HEADLAMP ASSEMBLY IS APPROX $1500. THE USE OF SUBPAR INSULATION APPEARS TO BE THE CAUSE OF THIS SAFETY ISSUE.

WHEN I REALIZED A LIGHTBULB IN MY HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT I BOUGHT THE BULB ONLINE READY TO REPLACE IT. I REALIZED WHEN REPLACING THAT THE WIRES CONNECTING TO THE HEADLIGHTS ARE COMPLETELY FLAKED OFF. SO I WANTED MONEY ON A NEW BULB BECAUSE IT WON'T LIGHT UP REGARDLESS. NOW THIS NOT ONLY CAUSES THE BULB TO NOT WORK BUT IT MESSES WITH THE LIGHTS IN THE WHOLE SIDE OF THE HEADLIGHT. MY ENTIRE LEFT HEADLIGHT TWEAKS. SOMETIMES JUS ONE PARKING LIGHT IS OUT, THEN IT'S THE HIGH BEAM THAT DOESN'T WORK, THEN IT'S THE LOW BEAM. SOMETIMES WHEN I HAVE LOW BEAMS ON THE LEFT HEADLIGHT HAS ITS HIGH BEAMS ON BY ITSELF. ALL THIS HAPPENED BECAUSE I TRIED TO CHANGE A BULB AND THE WIRINGS JUS FLAKED OFF AS SOON AS THEY MOVED OR BENDED A BIT. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS BECAUSE MY HEADLIGHT WON'T WORK SOMETIMES AND THAT MAKES ME NOT SO VISIBLE AT NIGHT. ALSO I END UP UNINTENTIONALLY HAVING MY HIGH BEAMS ON WITH NO WAY FOR ME TO TURN IT OFF BESIDES COMPLETELY TURNING OFF MY HEADLIGHTS. PRETTY SURE IT'S AN ELECTRICAL OR FIRE HAZARD TOO TO HAVE A BUNCH OF NAKED WIRES SIDE BY SIDE. FAULT NUMBER 2 IS THE BRAKES. WHEN COMING TO COMPLETE STOP MY CAR JERKS. THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH THE BRAKE SYSTEM. I TALKED TO A COUPLE PEOPLE WITH THE SAME MODEL CAR AS ME AND THEY ALL HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. IT JUST HAPPENS ONCE THE CAR GETS TO A HIGH NUMBER OF MILES. SOMETHING SHOULD BE DONE ABOUT THIS BECAUSE A FUNCTIONAL CAR SHOULDN'T BE JERKING WHEN COMING TO A STOP. ESPECIALLY IF THE BRAKES ARE IN PERFECT CONDITION.

RETURNING HOME FROM A TRIP TO THE GROCERY, CAR RUNNING FINE, TURNED INTO MY DRIVEWAY, HEARD A NOISE , ENGINE STOPPED RUNNING. HAD THE CAR PULLED TO MY GARAGE,, I AM A DIESEL ENGINE REBUILDER SO I DO KNOW ENGINES. I LOOKED THE ENGINE OVER WITH THE HOOD UP, DIDN'T REALLY NOTICE ANYTHING. GOT BACK IN THE CAR AND TRIED TO RE START THE ENGINE, IT ROLLED OVER FINE BUT NO START. I AGAIN LOOKED IN THE ENGINE AREA FOR ANY PROBLEMS. THEN I SAW IT. THE FRONT PULLEY AND CRANKSHAFT WAS CROOKED,, VERY VISIBLE CROOKED. I REACHED DOWN AND GRABBED THE END OF THE CRANKSHAFT AND IT IS BROKEN. NEVER EVER SEEN ANYTHING LIKE THIS. THE CAR ONLY HAS LIKE 71400.00 MILES ON IT. THIS COULD HAVE BEEN A VERY SERIOUS CONDITION IF I HAD BEEN ON THE HIGHWAY. BMW HAS MANY PROBLEMS WITH THEIR ENGINES. THIS IS CLEARLY A MATERIAL FLAW FOR A CRANKSHAFT TO BREAK. I HAVE BEEN READING LOTS OF STORIES ABOUT THEIR ENGINES FAILING OVER BAD MATERIALS USED IN BUILDING BMW ENGINES. I THINK BMW SHOULD FIX MY CAR UNDER A FACTORY RECALL AT NO COST TO ME. THIS CAR HAS COST ME TONS OF MONEY TO KEEP UP, AND I BABY THIS THING. ENGINE FAILED GOING NO MORE THAN 5MPH IN MY DRIVEWAY. AND YES IT WAS FULL OF OIL AND ALL FLUIDS. THE CAR LOOKS BRAND NEW. THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP ON THIS. [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

WE WOULD LIKE THE NHTSA TO BE AWARE THAT MYSELF AND A FEW COLLEAGUES OWN BMW AND HAVE EXPERIENCED THIS ISSUE. BMW HAS PURPOSELY BUILT THESE VEHICLES TO FAIL AFTER THE WARRANTY PERIOD WHEN A FEW MONTHS AFTER THE 100,000 MILE WARRANTY WE BEGAN HAVING PROBLEMS SPECIFICALLY WITH THE SEALS AROUND ALL ALL WINDOWS INCLUDING WINDSHIELD AND REAR WINDOW AS WELL AS THE SEALS AROUND THE TRUNK, HOWEVER AT THE BOTTOM OF THE TRUNK BMW KEEPS A MAIN COMPONENT BOARD UNDERNEATH THE SPARE TIRE , ONCE THE SEALS BEGIN TO FAIL IT CAUSES WATER AND MOISTURE TO GAIN ACCESS TO THIS COMPARTMENT AND CAUSE THE BOARD TO IGNITE AND CATCH FIRE AND CAUSE CAR TO GO CRAZY WITH ACCELERATION AND DECELERATION, WHY PLACE A MAIN COMPONENT IN THIS LOCATION WITH 10 FEET OF EXTRA WIRE AND NO DRAIN, I WOULD ALSO LIKE TO POINT OUT ALL BMW'S OF THE SAME YEAR EXPERIENCE M MELTING OF THE PLASTIC INTERIOR PARTS AND THE PAINT TO COMPLETELY BREAK DOWN UNDERNEATH THE CLEAR COAT NO MATTER HOW MUCH AX IS APPLIED THESE ARE MAJOR FLAWS AND BMW IS WELL AWARE OF THEM, THERE VEHICLES AND SERVICE IS TERRIBLE THEY SHOULD NOT BE ALLOWED ON THE ROAD

I HAVE A BMW 525I 2007, WHICH WAS A CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED VEHICLE BOUGHT FROM EAST BAY BMW. AROUND 71,000 MILES, THE 'STEERING WHEEL LOCK MALFUNCTION' LIGHT CAME ON (RED COLOR). THE CAR IS DRIVABLE, AND WORKS FINE, HOWEVER, THE LIGHT IS STILL ON WITH A WARNING THAT THE ENGINE MAY NOT START. I ASKED BMW OF MOUNTAIN VIEW FOR A QUOTE. THEY SAY THAT THE ELV LOCK (STEERING WHEEL LOCK) AND SCREWS NEED TO BE REPLACED FOR $1521.49!! THAT'S INSANE. I SEE MANY MANY OTHER BMW OWNERS COMPLAINT ABOUT THE SAME ISSUE. THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL. MANY OWNERS SAY THAT SIMPLY REPROGRAMMING THE CAS (CAR ACCESS SYSTEM) MODULE FIXED THE PROBLEM. BMW OF MOUNTAIN VIEW SAID THAT THEY WILL CHARGE $200 FOR THE REPROGRAMMING, WITH NO GUARANTEE THAT IT WILL FIX THE ISSUE. IF AFTER REPLACING THE ELV LOCKS + SCREWS ANOTHER REPROGRAMMING NEEDS TO BE DONE, THAT WOULD BE ANOTHER $200 FOR PROGRAMMING. THIS ISN'T RIGHT. BMW PLEASE OWN UP TO YOUR DEFECTS.