2010 Nissan Altima

THE BRAKE COULDN'T BE PRESSED SO THE PUSH BUTTON START WOULDN'T WORK. ALSO, THE ABS & VDC LIGHTS STAY ON EVEN WHILE DRIVING(SOMETIMES). YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN ITS GOING TO HAPPEN. I HAVE BEEN LATE TO WORK, UNABLE TO TAKE THE KIDS TO SCHOOL, AND AFRAID TO DRIVE MY OWN CAR THAT I USED TO LOVE, IN FEAR OF NOT BEING ABLE TO START THE DARN THING!! I SEE A LOT OF CUSTOMERS HAVE HAD THIS SAME TYPE OF ISSUE. IS THERE ANY KIND OF RECALL? *TR

MOST OF THE 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA CARS DO HAVE A PUSH BUTTON FOR THE IGNITION TO START. IN ORDER TO START THE CAR'S ENGINE, THE DRIVER WOULD NEED TO LIGHTLY PRESS THE BRAKES BEFORE PRESSING THE BUTTON. I PURCHASED THE BRAND-NEW CAR BACK IN SEPTEMBER 2010 AND I AM STILL THE ONLY OWNER. IN FEBRUARY 2014 WITH APPROXIMATELY 38,000 MILES, THE IGNITION STARTED TO STOP WORKING. AFTER A FEW STRUGGLES, THE IGNITION BUTTON WOULD FINALLY ALLOW ME TO START THE ENGINE. THEN THE PROBLEM GRADUALLY GOT WORSE. I NOTICED THAT THE BRAKES WOULD SUCK IN SO HARD THAT I WOULD BE UNABLE TO "PRESS" THE BRAKES ANYMORE IN ORDER FOR THE IGNITION BUTTON TO "ENABLE" SO I CAN START THE ENGINE. AT ONE POINT LAST WEEK, THE CAR REFUSED TO START BECAUSE OF THE BRAKES AND I WAS UNABLE TO DO ANYTHING BUT TO PUT THE CAR IN NEUTRAL AND PUSH THE CAR BACK AND FORTH IN THE MIDDLE OF A MCDONALD'S DRIVE-THRU ROUTE IN BALTIMORE, MD. MY ROOMMATE HAD TO TAKE LEAVE IN ORDER TO COME AND HELP ME OUT. AFTER 2 HOURS OF STRUGGLING, WE WERE ABLE TO GET THE "BRAKES LIGHT" ON AND THE IGNITION WOULD FINALLY BECOME ENABLED AND WE WERE ABLE TO START THE ENGINE. WE DROVE STRAIGHT TO THE NISSAN DEALERSHIP IN BOWIE, MD AND TOLD THEM WHAT HAPPENED. NISSAN ABOUT THIS AND THEY ACKNOWLEDGED THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM AMONG MANY DRIVERS AND THAT THE "BRAKE SWITCH" IS CAUSING IT. AT THE END, MY WARRANTY COMPANY HAD TO PAY MORE THAN $800 AND I HAD TO PAY ALMOST $300 OUT OF MY POCKET JUST FOR THIS ISSUE. I RESEARCHED ONLINE AND SAW SO MANY DRIVERS ARE COMPLAINING THE SAME THING AND THAT NISSAN IS REFUSING TO ISSUE A RECALL FOR THIS BECAUSE THEY KNEW IT IS A "COMMON PROBLEM" THAT THEY COULD MAKE A PROFIT OUT OF THE REPAIRS CHARGES. MANY DRIVERS HAD TO PAY APPROXIMATELY $1,000 JUST FOR THIS "COMMON ISSUE" AND I WOULD LIKE TO MAKE SURE THAT NHTSA & DOT ARE AWARE OF THIS ONGOING ISSUE. THANK YOU. *TR

I NOTICED WARNING LIGHTS ON DASH WERE GOING ON FOR BRAKES BUT BRAKES WERE WORKING.BROUGHT TO NISSAN DEALER FOR CHECK. I WAS TOLD MASTER CYLINDER WAS LEAKING INTO BOOSTER AND THAT IT HAD TO BE CHANGED .COST $483...AT 49000 MILES THIS SEEMED TO BE TOO SOON FOR THAT KIND OF PROBLEM. DEALER KNEW ABOUT IT AT WRITEUP IN SERVICE DRIVE THROUGH., BUT SAID IT WAS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. *TR

IF I HAVE TO PUMP THE BRAKES TO GET THE CAR STARTED, WILL I SOON HAVE TO PUMP THE BRAKES TO STOP?????? VEHICLE NOT RECOGNIZE THE KEY. HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES PRIOR TO 6/15/2013. JUST THOUGHT THE KEY NEEDED TO BE CHARGED. BUT ON THIS DATE I PULL UP AT A HOTEL, CHECKED IN AND WENT TO MOVE THE CAR AND IT WOULDN'T START. SAT FOR AN HOUR OR TWO. REPLACED BATTERY A FEW WEEKS PRIOR SO IT WASN'T THAT. HAD TO BE TOWED TO A PEPBOYS. TOO LATE FOR A DEALERSHIP, A SATURDAY EVENING, AND I WAS OVER 5 HOURS FROM HOME. THE CAR WAS DROPPED OFF ACROSS FROM THE BAYS THEREFORE THEY WERE UNABLE TO CONNECT THE DIAGNOSTIC MACHINE. AFTER SETTING FOR A COUPLE MORE HOURS IT FINALLY CRANK. THEY SAID IT WAS THE STARTER, AS OF TODAY I HAVE NOT REPLACED THE STARTER. IN AUGUST IT DID IT AGAIN TWICE WHILE MY 16 YR WAS DRIVING IT TO SCHOOL. A COUPLE OF TIMES IN SEPTEMBER. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER ON 10/14/2013, THEIR DIAGNOSIS WERE: REPLACE BRAKE SW, SUB HARNESS, AND TIE STRAPS. AND NOW ALMOST ON A DAILY BASIS WANT START WITHOUT PUMPING THE BRAKES. I'M THE ONLY ONE THAT DRIVES THE CAR NOW BECAUSE I'M AFRAID OF THE BRAKES EVENTUALLY GIVING OUT. *TR

ON SUNDAY, 12/16/12 EVENING AROUND 11:15PM, I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM OUT OF TOWN AND HAD TO PULL OVER FOR GAS ABOUT 45 MILES AWAY FROM THE HOUSE. I TURNED OFF THE VEHICLE AND FILLED UP THE GAS AND THE CAR WOULD NOT START ONCE WE WERE READY TO LEAVE. THE ABS AND FLIP LIGHTS WOULD BLINK AND THE BATTERY WOULD POWER UP BUT THE CAR ON THE PUSH BUTTON IGNITION WOULD NOT RESPOND WHICH WOULD START THE CAR, I CALLED THE TOWING COMPANY AND I WAS CHARGED $173 FOR TOWING TO THE DEALER AS THE MECHANIC WAS NOT ABLE TO START THE VEHICLE EITHER. THE FOLLOWING MORNING, I RECEIVED A CALL FROM THE DEALER STATING THE BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH WHICH WHEN PRESSED WITH THE KEY FOB IN THE VEHICLE ALLOWS THE CAR TO BE STARTED WHEN PRESSING THE PUSH BUTTON IGNITION SWITCH; THAT SWITCH ATTACHED TO THE BRAKE HARNESS HAD GONE BAD AND I WAS GIVEN A COST OF $232.64 TO REPLACE THIS SWITCH. THE DEALER STATED THAT HE WAS SHOWING IN HIS SYSTEM THAT THIS SWITCH WAS REDESIGNED RECENTLY AND THE NEW REDESIGNED SWITCH WHICH WOULD INCLUDE REPLACING THE BRAKE PEDAL HARNESS ALSO WOULD COST ME A TOTAL OF $531.17 AND HE STATED THAT HE RECOMMENDS THE NEW REDESIGNED SWITCH OVER THE LESSER EXPENSIVE SAME TYPE OF SWITCH THAT WENT BAD WHICH WOULD BE AT RISK OF GOING BAD AGAIN SOON. I ESCALATED THE ISSUE TO NISSAN CONSUMER AFFAIRS AT 1-800-NISSAN-1, CASE #10255931. I REQUESTED THEM TO COVER THE EXPENSE AS I HAD EXCEEDED THE MANUFACTURERS WARRANTY ONLY BY 3000 MILES AND HAD BOUGHT THE CAR BRAND NEW IN MAY, 2010. THEY RESEARCHED THE MATTER AND DECLINED TO COVER THE EXPENSE DUE TO A PREVIOUS BRAKE ROTOR ISSUE I HAD ESCALATED TO THEM 3 MONTHS AFTER PURCHASING THE VEHICLE WHICH WAS A SEPARATE ISSUE. I HOPE NO ONE ELSE IS STRANDED AS WE WERE WITH MY WIFE, MY TWIN 3 YEAR OLD BOYS, AND MYSELF AT 11:30PM AT NIGHT FAR AWAY DUE TO A BLOWN OUT SWITCH WHICH HAS NOW BEEN REDESIGNED, I AM ASKING THAT A RECALL ON THIS BE OPENED UP. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, THE BRAKES AND TRANSMISSION FAILED. THERE WERE NO LIGHTS ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE CONTACT STATED THAT SHE DEPRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL, BUT THE BRAKES SEIZED AND THE VEHICLE SLID AND EXPERIENCED AN INCREASED STOPPING DISTANCE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT ONCE THAT HAPPENED, THE TRANSMISSION FAILED. THE CONTACT RESTARTED THE VEHICLE AND THE VEHICLE FUNCTIONED NORMALLY. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER FOR INSPECTION AND THEY STATED THAT THEY COULD NOT DUPLICATE THE FAILURE. THE WERE UNABLE TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED AND THEY DID NOT RESPOND. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 3,000. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.