2010 Nissan Altima

I HAVE READ NUMEROUS ACCOUNTS OF THE NISSAN ALTIMA BEING UNABLE TO START WHEN THE REQUIRED BRAKE/START BUTTON IS USED. I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. WHEN THE BRAKE IS APPLIED AND THE START BUTTON PUSHED, THE ACC LIGHT COMES ON THEN, IF PUSHED AGAIN, THE ON LIGHT COMES ON (OVER THE START BUTTON). THEN WHEN PUSHED AGAIN, THE SYSTEM SHUTS OFF. BY TRYING SEVERAL TIMES AND PUMPING THE BRAKE, THE CAR WILL EVENTUALLY START. SINCE THIS HAS BEEN REPORTED NUMEROUS TIMES, THERE IS OBVIOUSLY A DEFECT IN THE CAR'S PARTS/SYSTEM. THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL TO HAVE NISSAN REPLACE THE FAULTY PARTS FREE OF CHARGE. *TR

NORFOLK, VIRGINIA - MY 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA WITH PUSH BUTTON START FAILED TO START. ALL OTHER ELECTRICAL SEEMED FINE. I HAD JUST PREVIOUSLY NOTICED THE ABS, VDC AND SLIP WARNING LIT WHILE DRIVING. AFTER CHECKING FUSES, KEY FOB BATTERIES, ETC. I ATTEMPTED TO PUMP THE BRAKES SEVERAL TIMES AND IT FINALLY STARTED. DROVE IMMEDIATELY TO THE DEALER WHERE I WAS TOLD IT WAS THE BRAKE LAMP SWITCH AND HARNESS WHICH MUST BE REPLACED AT A COST OF $550.00. HE SEEMED TO KNOW WITH OUT OF EVEN LOOKING WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS. WHEN I QUESTIONED HIM ABOUT SUCH AN EXPENSIVE SWITCH, HE ONLY SAID "THIS HAPPENS A LOT WITH THIS MODEL." THIS SHOULD BE RECALLED AND FIXED AT NISSAN'S EXPENSE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. AFTER THE PUSH TO START BUTTON WAS INSTALLED, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT RESTART AFTER BEING DRIVEN AFTER APPROXIMATELY 15 MINUTES. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE VDS, SLIP, AND BRAKE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. WHEN ATTEMPTING TO DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL IN ORDER TO START THE VEHICLE, THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO DEPRESS. THE FAILURE OCCURRED MULTIPLE TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER AND THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT THE BRAKE SWITCH WAS DEFECTIVE, WHICH PREVENTED THE VEHICLE FROM STARTING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 20,000.

MY 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA IS NOT ABLE TO START DUE TO THE PUSH BUTTON IGNITION. IT IS HAVING THE SAME ISSUE AS THE 2009 NISSAN MAXIMA'S AND ALTIMA ARE HAVING, WHICH IS THE ELECTRONIC STEERING COLUMN LOCK (ESCL). NISSAN HAS ISSUED A WARRANTY EXTENSION FOR THIS ISSUE FOR THE 2009 MODEL BUT NOT FOR THE 2010 AND OTHER ALTIMA MODELS THAT ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. I BELIEVE THAT NISSAN SHOULD EXTEND IT COVERAGE TO THIS VITAL PART DUE TO THE COST BEING OVER $700 TO REPLACE AND THE FACT THAT WITHOUT THIS PART, THE CAR CANNOT FUNCTION AT ALL. *TR

NISSAN ALTIMA 2010 (~25K MILES SO FAR) WOULD NOT START UPON PRESS THE START BUTTON, SO THE CAR IS IMMOBILIZED. WALKED AWAY, CAME BACK 15 MINUTES, AND BY CHANCE, IT STARTED. THIS HAPPEN SEVERAL TIMES FOR THE PAST 2 MONTHS. THE LAST TRY, NO SUCH LUCK WHEN ATTEMPT TO START THE CAR. CHECK THE CAR BATTERY WAS AT 45%. SO I CHARGED THE BATTERY TO 100% AND STILL NO LUCK STARTING THE CAR. CALL NISSANASSIST AND RECOMMENDED THE CAR BE TOWED TO NISSAN AUTHORIZED SERVICE CENTER. I DID AND THEIR DIAGNOSIS ($119.00) ARE A BAD BRAKE SWITCH/WIRING HARNESS COMBO ISSUE AND COST ABOUT OVER $600.00. THE CAR IS NOW OUT OF WARRANTY. THE LOCAL SERVICE MANAGER SAID "OFF THE RECORD", THIS KNOWN DEFECTIVE BRAKE SWITCH WILL NOT ALLOW THE CAR TO START, ALSO IT IS CONSUMING THE BATTERY ELECTRICAL CURRENT AND OVER TIME. THIS CONTINUOUS BLEEDING OF CURRENT WILL HEAT UP THE WIRE HARNESS/CONNECTORS DUE TO THE CAR STARTING AND ITS SECURITY FEATURES, AND THUS EVENTUALLY DRAINING YOUR CAR BATTERY AND DAMAGING THE WIRE HARNESS. THAT IS WHY YOU WILL HAVE A DEAD BATTERY OVER TIME OF 1-2 WEEKS. THIS IS A MONEY MAKING PROPOSITION FOR NISSAN CORPORATION AND THE LOCAL SERVICE PERSON MENTIONED ABOUT A RASH OF BAD SWITCH OCCURRENCES LAST YEAR (2013). IN SHORT, IF YOU DON'T USE THE NISSAN SERVICE DEPARTMENT FOR YOUR CAR AND SPEND $$$ WITH THEM, THE NISSANASSIST WON'T HELP YOU DEFRAY THE COST FOR THE CAR DEFECTIVE AS YOU DID NOT "INVEST" WITH THEM .SO NHTSA, PEOPLE WON'T DIE WITH THIS DEFECTIVE, BUT WILL CAUSE MANY INCONVENIENCES WITH DEAD CARS AT VARIOUS LOCATIONS WHERE DRIVERS TURN OFF THEIR CARS AND FRUSTRATED ON ATTEMPTING TO START THEIR CARS. THIS IS THE SAME PROBLEM NOTED ON NISSAN BLOG AND WEBSITES BY FRUSTRATED NISSAN ALTIMA OWNERS. IN SUMMARY, CAN NHTSA INVESTIGATED AND FORCE NISSAN TO ISSUE A RECALL FOR THIS RECURRING PROBLEM AS NO ONE DIE YET? YES, NO ONE WILL DIE FROM THIS. *TR

WHEN YOU TRY TO START VEHICLE YOU PUSH ON BRAKE PEDAL, BUT THE PEDAL DOESN'T GO DOWN 1/16 OF AN INCH. THE BRAKE LIGHTS WONT EVEN COME ON. IF YOU PUSH THE START BUTTON IT WILL ONLY GO TO THE ACCESSORY THEN OFF. WHEN I ASKED SERVICE MANAGER AT NELSON NISSAN IN BROKEN ARROW, OK AND I QUOTE "HE SAID YOU HAD TO HAVE KEY ON BEFORE BRAKE LIGHTS WOULD COME ON"... I AM LIKE REALLY!!! THE BRAKE LIGHTS UMM NO THEY SHOULD COME ON ANYTIME YOU PUSH THE BRAKE IF THE KEY IS ON OR NOT. PLEASE HELP US AMERICAN'S AND OTHER HARD WORKING TAX PAYING PEOPLE GET OUR CARS FIXED. WE PAID GOOD HARD EARNED MONEY FOR THEM AND NOW ALL WE HAVE IN A LEMON IN ARE GARAGE. THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOU TIME, GOD BLESS YOU! AND GOD BLESS AMERICA!!! *TR

THE BRAKE COULDN'T BE PRESSED SO THE PUSH BUTTON START WOULDN'T WORK. ALSO, THE ABS & VDC LIGHTS STAY ON EVEN WHILE DRIVING(SOMETIMES). YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN ITS GOING TO HAPPEN. I HAVE BEEN LATE TO WORK, UNABLE TO TAKE THE KIDS TO SCHOOL, AND AFRAID TO DRIVE MY OWN CAR THAT I USED TO LOVE, IN FEAR OF NOT BEING ABLE TO START THE DARN THING!! I SEE A LOT OF CUSTOMERS HAVE HAD THIS SAME TYPE OF ISSUE. IS THERE ANY KIND OF RECALL? *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE PUSH-TO-START BUTTON FAILED TO RESPOND. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE ABS AND THE SLP WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WOULD START AFTER MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS OR THE VEHICLE WOULD HAVE TO RECEIVE A JUMP START TO THE BATTERY FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE IN ORDER TO START PROPERLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING AND THE MECHANIC STATED THAT THE BRAKE AND THE PARK LIGHT SWITCH FAILED. AS A RESULT THE WIRING HARNESS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 100.