2020 Hyundai Palisade

So there I was, stopped at a red light, waiting for traffic to clear and about to turn right. Traffic clears. I step on the gas. Nothing. I look at my dash and there are no signs of life. No warning lights, no bells or dings. The vehicle is just dead. I’m pushing the start button, pushing gears, tried to turn on my hazard lights. Nothing. As expected, the symphony of horns from vehicles behind me started. So I pull the lever from inside to pop the hood, open my door, and exit the vehicle. I get the hood up and first thing I go for is the battery. I reach for the battery cable and it’s loose. Twist it a bit and viola! Car starts up! But then I realize the car is rolling backwards! Ahh! So I run and jump into the moving car and put my foot on the brake and stop it. There were two saving graces here: 1. The road I was stopped on was mostly flat. 2. When I exited the vehicle I left the door open. Nobody was hurt. The vehicle didn’t hit anything. But had there been in incline on the road, I may not have been able to catch up with the vehicle and stop it. And had I closed the door, it probably would have been locked when it restarted and I would not have been able to get in. IF THE BATTERY IS DEAD (or in my case, a battery cable comes loose) THERE IS NO WAY TO CHANGE GEARS! Should this happen again while I’m alone in the vehicle, I’d have to wait, a prisoner in my car, until some good citizen came along and ask them to open the hood and jiggle the battery cable. Not as dangerous, but should the vehicle be parked in a single garage and then the battery go dead (for whatever reason) one wouldn’t be able to put the vehicle in neutral and push it out of the garage to get it jumped off from another vehicle. HOW DO YOU PUT THE VEHICLE IN PARK with a total loss of electrical?

Car began giving us an issue while driving several months ago : driving up hills at a speed of 20 mph or less, the vehicle begins to jerk and pulse. There is also a knocking sound coming from the rear of the vehicle. Much of this also happens in parking lots at speeds of less than 10 mph. Driving at a speeds of greater than 60 mph / highway the car will pulse as well. This does not change with driving modes: ECO, Comfort, Sport or SMART mode. The engine is the same throughout modes- jerking and hesitating. When driving from highway to get gas or stop the car will have trouble when pressing on the gas pedal after being stopped then trying to enter the highway. The car is slow to respond to the gas pedal and will not accelerate matching your foot on the pedal. After some time the car will jerk forward and will not slow down when you take your foot off the gas. One incident in the past week I was pulling out into a 3 lane road, the car just stopped for no reason. Gas pedal down.. NOT moving. I was sitting in 3 lanes of oncoming traffic. I have reported this to my Hyundai Dealership. They are unable to locate the problem because NO codes pop up. They are unable to duplicate my problem when test driving. My concern is safety with having 3 children in the car and it just STOPS / lurches forward at a fast rate of speed. This happens on a daily basis. Unknown as to component or system failed or malfunctioned.. Yes available for inspection upon request.

I am having 2 issues with my 2020 Palisade. First off, for the last 7 months I can feel some sort of slip in my transmission when I am between 40-60 mph. I took in in back in November to the dealership and they claim they didn’t find any issues that I could reschedule and drive it with one of the techs at another appointment. Fast forward, took it to a different dealership this week for a second opinion because it’s still happening and more frequent. They told me they felt it happen once. My car is still under warranty. They suggest a transmission flush, but it wasn’t covered under warranty. My second problem is I’ve been caught in heavy downpour storms. Two times my car check engine light comes on and my car goes in limp mode. Basically puts me stranded because the car won’t run. After a day of letting it sit and dry out, it will run and check engine light goes off. They suggest that moisture is getting into the coil and I need a new coil pack and spark plugs. While at the dealership I ask if between the two suggested repairs will it fix the issue. They told me they can’t guarantee me that it will fix the problem. They want to charge me $1700 for something not guarantee when my car is under warranty. Has anyone had these issues? I contacted Hyundai Corporate and my case is suppose to be escalated.

I bought this car as a certified pre-owned, picked it up on January 18, 2023. This is our family car and we took it on a 350 mile each way road trip on Jan 27. Upon arrival to our destination, driving around the city I noticed a lot of white smoke coming from the exhaust. I checked the oil and there wasn't oil registering on the dipstick, so I added 5 quarts of oil to the car to get us home on Sunday Jan 29. Upon returning home, I got the car back to the dealer and they had it for a couple days but "couldn't replicate the smoke". The dealer began an oil consumption test based on Hyundai's instructions. Now I have to take the car back in every 1,000 miles to be checked. I picked the car up on Feb 9 and have continued to drive it around with white smoke coming out the back end in multiple scenarios: after sitting at a stoplight, stop sign, turning from a slow speed, or even starting to accelerate on the freeway after slow (not stopped) traffic. The engine knocks when accelerating after most turns, between 20-30mph. Not only is it embarrassing to have big white plumes of smoke at the back of the car, it doesn't feel safe for my family or good for the car to continue driving to get to 1,000 miles and go have it checked for the next 4,000 miles. Hyundai certainly knows of the problems and are making me "prove" issues through their oil consumption test. Meanwhile, I drive a car that has horrible exhaust fumes, and causes safety concerns as it could stop running anywhere, anytime.

There were signs before it even happened. The gear got stuck in 5th gear and couldn't go up or down. Even after that, the shock and gear did not engage properly when shifting gears. That day, while driving at 40 miles, the gear shifted out and didn't engage any gear. I turned on my emergency lights, parked on the shoulder, turned off the engine, and then started again to get into gear and drive. After driving for about 5 minutes, the same symptoms occurred. brewed in the same way. I was so scared I drove slowly to the dealer

I came to complete stop at a traffic light. Once I got the green arrow I proceeded to accelerate but the car was barely moving. Mashing the gas harder it then began to move. Something seemed odd but wasn’t sure what. Continuing down the road I noticed my RPMs higher than usual for 45mph. Confirmed with paddle shifters the car was stuck in 5th gear. I came to the next light and car was not down shifting. Again green light, mashed the gas and slow to accelerate. After making it home and leaving the car sit for about 30 min I haven’t had the issue since. Had I been trying to cross the road during heavy traffic this could have been REALLY bad.

This car has a vibration at highway speeds. I made the dealer aware of the issue and they said that the drive shaft needed to be replaced. They did the replacement and the vibration was still there. They then balanced the tires and that did not fix the issue. I went to a tire shop and had the tires balanced and did a 4 wheel alignment. The problem still exists. It does not make the car undriveable, but it is annoying and should not be happening. I do not know if this will have long term consequences on the drive train. The dealer now said they have done all they can.

WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAY 290 WEST TO FREDICKSBURG, TEXAS ON APRIL 2,2021, SPEED LIMIT VARIES FROM 50-60 MPH, THE VEHICLE JUST STOPPED, ALL SYSTEMS WERE OUT, MESSAGE ON THE SCREEN SAID "TAKE TO SERVICE, WHEN CONVENIENT". IT WAS VERY SCARY AS THE VEHICLES FROM BEHIND WERE HONKING AND I COULD NOT GET THE CAR TO THE SIDE. IT COULD HAVE BEEN A MAJOR ACCIDENT WITH FATALITIES.

VIBRATION AT SPEEDS OF 64/65MPH AND UP. NOT SURE IF DRIVESHAFT OR TRANSMISSION. HYUNDAI HAS ISSUED A TSB BUT WILL NOT HONOR IT. I HAVE ASKED 2X FOR DEALER SERVICE DEPT. TO EVALUATE THIS PROBLEM. THEY SAID THEY DO NOT HAVE TO HONOR THIS TSB. I HAVE SEEN ON FORUMS OTHERS ARE HAVING SAME PROBLEM WITH CARS MADE IN DECEMBER 2019. IT IS PAINFUL TO DRIVE ON THE HIGHWAY AND I DO NOT KNOW IF IT IS THE DRIVESHAFT, WILL IT BREAK? WILL THE TRANSMISSION FAIL? THIS IS A BRAND NEW CAR PURCHASED NEW AND IT IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE ON THE HIGHWAY AND I CANNOT GET HYUNDAI TO LOOK AT THE PROBLEM AND THEY HAVE SENT EMAILS SAYING TOUGH LUCK. THIS IS ANYTIME YOU ARE DRIVING ON INTERSTATES OR HIGHWAYS WITH SPEED LIMITS OF 70MPH..AT AROUND 64/65 CAR STEERING WHEEL, SEAT, FLOOR VIBRATES UNLESS YOU GO BELOW 63MPH. HAPPENS EVERY TIME. FIRST TIME WAS DRIVING HOME FROM DEALER ON HIGHWAY--BEEN REACHING OUT TO HYUNDAI USA SINCE JULY BEEN TO DEALER IN JULY, AUGUST...BUT ALWAYS TOLD APPOINTMENT WILL BE TWO WEEKS TO 6 WEEKS AWAY.

PURCHASED VEHICLE AND WHEN WE DROVE IT AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS (64-75) THERE WAS A SEVERE VIBRATION WITH LOW FREQUENCY RUMBLING (SOUNDED AS THOUGH DRIVING ON RUMBLE STRIP). IF WE DROVE ABOVE 75 THE VIBRATION WOULD LESSEN. WE BROUGHT IN INTO THE DEALER AND ON THE FIRST VISIT THEY FIRST BALANCED TIRES, NO CHANGE NOTICED ALTHOUGH THEY GAVE US THE VEHICLE BACK. SECOND VISIT THEY REPLACED REAR TIRES AND FORCE BALANCED ALL TIRES, NO CHANGE. THEN THEY REPLACED FRONT TIRES AND REPLACED THE REAR DRIVE SHAFT AFTER HAVING TOLD US TWO WEEKS PRIOR THAT THEY HAD MEASURED THE FIRST ONE AND IT WAS WITHIN HYUNDAI SPECS. THE REPLACING OF THE DRIVE SHAFT IMPROVED THE LOW FREQUENCY VIBRATION BUT DID NOT COMPLETELY ELIMINATE IT. WE ARE CURRENTLY WAITING TO HEAR BACK FROM HYUNDAI CORPORATE FOR A BUY BACK.