2015 Hyundai Elantra

Drove my 2015 Hyundai Elantra on the coldest day of the year to an appointment. Car was fully warmed up. Pulled into a gas station to park and was going less than 3 mph, making a left hand turn into the space. Elantra suddenly accelerated hard and the car hit a cement pole, causing extensive front end damage. If car had full insurance coverage, it would have been a write off. Hood crumpled, radiator damaged, front grill broken, bent the engine bar in half. Significant damage but the air bag did not deploy. Had to have it towed home 35 miles. Damage was in the middle of the front of the car, so I was already in the parking space. No warning lights of any sort before this happened. Very dangerous and I would never buy another Hyundai. I bought this car brand new in 2015 and have had recalls taken care of (anti theft software one). Over the course of owning this car, other odd things have occurred as well, such as white smoke coming out of the engine upon acceleration, accelerated wear on the tires due to the back end, and engine will suddenly stop for no reason while driving (this happened twice) Inferior product!

On [XXX] I was parking in my parking spot outside my house, went to pull up 3 more inches in my parking spot when the vehicle accelerated at an extremely rapid speed, went over the high curb, up my front lawn into the tree in my front yard. It was a battle between the brake and the gas acceleration event. Then I put it gently in reverse, my car fled rapidly down into the parking lot at such a high rate of speed, I turned the wheel, my car hit 3 cars across the parking lot, shot across the parking lot, popped over that curb, went down an extremely steep hill, hit the cross street, went still in reverse over an island, wiped out two signs and crashed into a car in the middle of the 4 way stop and stopped. My insurance is blaming it on driver error like they are blaming thousands of drivers over the same experience, stating that I mistook the gas pedal instead of the brake and also stating that I did not attempt to brake, that is so far from the truth, you can look at the track marks on the ground and tell I was standing on the brake. What is being done about these awful scenerios. My car is currently in copart being assessed. My car was serviced at the hyundai dealership ever since I purchased it, all the records are there and in my possession, I had low mileage, less than 48,000 miles and planned on holding onto the vehicle for at least 6 more years. Now my car is sabotaged, being blamed like 1,000 of other drivers over the car malfunctioning. There is a sensor for the Throttle, a sensor for the Gas Accelerator that the Computer Control Unit brain waits for the analytical data from both sensors and adds additional throttle to the situation. Once the car is turned off the entire system resets itself, so there is no evidence of high throttle, gas accelerators sticking and the driver is blamed. Since the insurance companies have insured these vehicles there is a lot at stake for these cases to be proven and for the Hyundai manufacturer as well. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA),

Car will accelerate and get stuck in a high gear rpm gauge will not work as well You will come to a stop not knowing you are stuck in a high gear car will not downshift. I tried to cross the intersection from a stop and almost got hit because I could barely accelerate. I was stuck in 5th gear. Car will also stall while stuck in in a high gear at a stop I can turn off the vehicle and start it and it will reset the car to normal. It will drive fine for a while. Randomly this will happen. From my research I found this is a common problem with many different model years of Hyundai's . Most people say the solution is a new crankshaft sensor . When I ran a diagnostics There are no error codes for this problem. Many other individuals with this problem have said the same from many different online forums I have read. Other individuals I've said they were also stuck in the high gear at a stop and did not know until they accelerated. Some have been in accidents because of this issue. I would assume Hyundai would be aware of this. If there's not a recall on this, I believe there should be.

Reporting my previous VIN in case it helps the new vehicle owner since I am sure they are facing similar defects that I am with my "brand new 2016 Hyundai Elantra". I previously owned a brand new 2015 Hyundai Elantra and had to file a claim after flooding occurred in Kyle, Texas. The 2015 Elantra title was transferred to USAA after filing a claim for TOTAL LOSS due to engine flooding on [XXX]. Odometer reading on date of total loss is 7,673 miles. Vehicle appears to be sold again with same odometer reading January 2016. Both of my Hyundai Elantra's were purchased at Ron Carter Hyundai Dealership in Texas (Dealer number P113588). This dealership is now called Big Star Hyundai after DCG Acquisitions represented the sale in 2021 - just in time to deny and delay warranty covered defects to consumers who thought they purchased a brand new car. Hope this helps the current vehicle owner in case they are also over spending on dealership recommended "repairs" for their LEMON. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

The contact owns a 2015 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the accelerator pedal was depressed; however, the vehicle failed to respond as intended. Additionally, the vehicle jerked and hesitated. The contact stated that an unknown warning light illuminated with a message not to drive the vehicle until the vehicle was serviced. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed with a failed transmission and that the transmission needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.

The contact owns a 2015 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while pulling out of a parking spot, the vehicle accelerated unintendedly. There was no warning light illuminated. The contact stated that she depressed the brake pedal several times, but the vehicle failed to respond and crashed into a building. The driver's side air bag deployed; however, there was flame in the air bag upon deployment. The contact stated that the fire went out on his own. The contact sustained chest pain, and bruises on the chest, stomach, and legs. The contact did not seek medical assistance and was recovering at home. A police report was filed. The vehicle was towed to the residence. The contact later received notification of NHTSA Campaign Number: 23V651000 (Service Brakes, Hydraulic) that she related to the brake failure. The dealer and the manufacturer were not notified of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The failure mileage was unknown.

At any given time without warning the car dies. There is a red light that is sometimes visible on the dash but flashes too quickly and tell which light it may be (due to location of light owner’s manual showing possible oil light/battery). The car has had regular scheduled maintenance. This happens when driving in everyday traffic and sometimes when going from stopped to accelerating. This happens when going in reverse or ahead. I have almost been in several different accidents due to it dying in the middle of intersections. Code reader has not been able to locate the problem because there’s no indication of a problem on the check engine light. This is a very serious problem that needs to be taken seriously before it gets someone badly injured or killed.

WHEN I TRY TO ACCELERATE QUICKLY, ESPECIALLY IF THE ENGINE IS STILL COLD, I WILL SUDDENLY NOT BE ABLE TO ACCELERATE EVEN THOUGH THE ENGINE AND VEHICLE IS STILL RUNNING. THEN WHEN I SLOW DOWN THE VEHICLE BEGINS TO SHAKE LIKE IT'S ALMOST GOING TO DIE ALTOGETHER. THEN IF I TRY TO ACCELERATE AGAIN, IT'S ALMOST LIKE THERE IS NO POWER TO DRIVE,OR THE ENGINE COMPLETELY STALLS, AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BEGINS TO FLASH AND THE OIL PRESSURE LIGHT COMES ON. THE ONLY WAY THEN TO BE ABLE TO KEEP DRIVING IS IF I COMPLETELY STOP THE VEHICLE AND TURN THE IGNITION COMPLETELY OFF AND WAIT A FEW MINUTES AND THEN IT WILL USUALLY TAKE 3-5 TRIES TO GET THE CAR TO START AGAIN. THIS HAPPENS NEARLY 1-3 TIMES A WEEK, AND THE DEALERSHIP SAYS THAT IT'S NOT RELATED TO THE ENGINE RECALL THAT THEY ISSUED, EVEN THOUGH IT APPEARS TO BE THE SAME EXACT ISSUES THAT IS AFFECTING THE OTHER VEHICLES. THERE HAVE BEEN AT LEAST 20 OCCASIONS WHERE I WAS TRYING TO MERGE ONTO A HIGHWAY AND THEN MY VEHICLE DIES OR LOSES POWER AND THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY CONCERN OF MINE.

THE CAR STALLS WHEN YOU COME TO A STOP AFTER THE ENGINE HAS WARMED UP FROM DRIVING. STALLS EVERY TIME THE CAR IDLES AFTER WARM UP. CAR IS DRIVE BY WIRE WITH ALL ELECTRONIC GAS PEDAL AND THROTTLE BODY. NO MEANS OF INCREASING THE IDLE SETTING. STALLING CAN BE AVERTED BY KEEPING RIGHT FOOT ON THE GAS AND BRAKING WITH LEFT FOOT. NOT A SAFE WAY TO DRIVE.