2010 Hyundai Elantra Touring

I received a letter from Hyundai telling me to have the work done, but there are no dealerships in my area willing to schedule me for an appointment. I attempted to use the www.hyundaiUSA.com/Campaign188 website to schedule an appointment based on my zip code. Five dealerships came up. Of those five, two had scheduling greyed out and the other three went to an error screen.

I bought this vehicle used, just three years ago. It had a little over 100k miles on it. Since purchase date, the car has died at least eight times and I've had to take it in for inspection four times. It has had three different batteries. The service techs have not been able to find anything technically wring with the car: alternator fine, engine fine, batteries fine, no reported power draws... yet I am still continuously finding myself stuck with a dead car. There was a bluetooth system in the vehicle when I bought it, but the second time it died, the service tech removed it in case that was what was drawing out power. However, it had died six times since.

While driving uphill, I let my foot off the gas pedal to make an upcoming turn. The car continued to accelerate, the brake pedal wouldn’t stop the car. Neutral made engine race to red-line. Turned ignition off and used hand brake, damaging handbrake shoes. Had car towed to dealership in Debuque, Iowa. After a few days was told that the floor mat had come loose and wedged accelerator down. Removed mat. 24 months later car accelerated the same way, unwanted, with brake pedal not stopping the car. There is no car mat to get stuck. Turned ignition off and used handbrake. Will be bringing car to a mechanic.

Traveling 25-30 MPH on a gravel road, car shuddered and seemed to tilt sightly to the left. At the same time a loud grinding noise was heard and steering felt funny. On stopping and exiting the car, I saw the left rear wheel was toed to the left, and leaning so that the top of the tire was extended beyond the fender arch. Looking beneath the car, I could see the left rear control arm had torn loose from it's pivot point near the center of the uni-body, due to corrosion. The wheel hub was attached to the car solely by the torsion bar, brake line, and strut. The car had passed a state safety inspection exactly one year previous, and has approximately 115K miles, primarily in Maine. There was NO warning before the failure, such as sloppy steering or unstable handling. The gravel road where the failure occurred leads to my vacation cabin. To get there and return home I must cross a mountain pass which is steep and winding both ways, with a speed limit of 50MPH. One side has sheer drop offs, and the other has solid rock ledge. If the failure had happened in this 10 mile stretch, the results could very well have been deadly. Someone may have offered to repair the corrosion damage to the uni-body, but I could never feel comfortable driving the car again. There was no damage to anything but the vehicle itself, so no police report was made. The extremely rural area where the failure occurred made it impractical to get the car to a Hyundai dealer. I junked the car with Dubois Towing and Salvage, 438 River Rd, Mexico, Maine, 04257 (207-364-7273).

I was driving this car and the esc light came on and then off again but i feel the steering became hard and still the steering is hard there is a recall for this car for steering problem please let me know is it safe to drive it or not. [XXX] INFORMATION Redacted PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 HYUNDAI ELANTRA TOURING. THE CONTACT STATED THAT POWER STEERING FAILED TO OPERATED AS DESIGNED WHILE HIS SON WAS DRIVING THE VEHICLE AT AN UNKNOWN SPEED. THE CONTACT HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO ALEXANDRIA HYUNDAI (1707 MT VERNON AVE, ALEXANDRIA, VA 22301) WHERE HE WAS INFORMED THAT THE ALTERNATOR NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE CONTACT DISAGREED WITH THE DIAGNOSTIC AND HE INFORMED THE DEALER THAT THE FAILURE WAS RELATED TO A DEFECTIVE FUSE. THE CONTACT HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED BACK TO HIS RESIDENCE WHERE HE PERFORMED A DIAGNOSTIC TEST AND HAD DETERMINED THAT THE FAILURE WAS INDEED RELATED TO A DEFECTIVE FUSE. THE CONTACT THEN HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED BACK TO THE SAME DEALER AFTER DISCOVERING THAT THE VEHICLE WAS INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V100000 (STEERING) AND HAD THE RECALL REPAIR PERFORMED. UPON RETURN OF THE VEHICLE, THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 45 MPH, THE EPS WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL AND THE VEHICLE STARTED JERKING TO THE RIGHT. THE CONTACT DROVE THE VEHICLE TO HIS RESIDENCE AND LATER DISCOVERED THAT THE BRAKES AND ROTORS WERE DEFECTIVE. THE CONTACT HAD THE BRAKES AND ROTORS REPLACED HOWEVER, THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 126,000.

POWER STEERING STOPPED WORKING. I HAD SQEAKING NOISES WHEN TURNING THE WHEEL.ALSO SHIMMERING OVER SLIGHTEST BUMPS. DEALER ESTIMATE FOR NEW STEERING COLUMNS WAS ABOUT $2000.00 . I WAS PULLING OUT OF A PARKING SPACE WHEN IT FROZE. AFTER I TUNED OF THE CAR IT WORKED. HOWEVER I HAVE READ MANY COMPLAINTS THAT THIS PROBLEM CONTINUES UNDER NORMAL DRIVING CONDITIONS INCLUDING HIGHWAYS. I FEEL THE MANUFACTURER SHOULD BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS PROBLEM.

I HAVE A 2010 HYUNDAI ELANTRA TOURING WITH 16,605 MILES. IT HAS HAD STEERING PROBLEMS THAT HAVE BEEN FIXED BY THE DEALERSHIP AT NO COST TO ME TWICE BEFORE. HOWEVER NOW IT NEEDS ANOTHER STEERING REPAIR AND THE PARTS ALONE COST ME $1,446.89 AND LABOR WILL BE AN ADDITIONAL $300. THE PART IS COMING FROM KOREA AND MAY TAKE ONE TO TWO MONTHS TO GET TO THE DEALERSHIP. IN THE MEAN TIME I HAVE NO CAR TO DO MY ERRANDS. I AM ASKING FOR REIMBURSEMENT AND RESTITUTION FOR MYSELF AND A GUARANTEE THAT THIS STEERING PROBLEM WILL NOT REOCCUR .