2008 Honda CR-V

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

MY DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR IS BROKEN ON THE DRIVER DOOR. THIS IS A DEFINITE SECURITY PROBLEM. WHEN I WENT TO LOCK MY CAR, THE LOCK ON THE DRIVER DOOR KEPT UNLOCKING. THERE WERE POPPING NOISES WHEN I TRIED TO UNLOCK & LOCK MY DOOR. ALL OTHER DOORS WORKED, BUT I HAD TO LEAVE MY CAR UNLOCKED OVER NIGHT BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT STAY LOCKED. WHEN I GOT TO WORK THE NEXT DAY, IT LOCKED AFTER A FEW TRIES BUT MADE A LOUD GRINDING NOISE. *TR

AS SOON AS YOU WOULD UNLOCK THE AUTOMATIC DOORS LOCKS - THE FRONT DRIVER DOOR, IT WOULD QUICKLY LOCK BACK UP, YOU HAD TO FORCE IT TO UNLOCK ONCE IT LOCKED ON ITS OWN, YOU CAN USE THE CLICKER OR THE UNLOCK BUTTON, BUT YOU HAD TO BE VERY QUICK TO BE ABLE TO UNLOCK IT - YOU HAD TO HAVE YOUR ONE HAND ON THE DOOR HANDLE AND THE OTHER HAND ON THE UNLOCK BUTTON - OR ELSE YOU CAN'T GET OUT THAT DOOR. ONCE YOU GET TO SPEEDS OF 5 MPH THE DOORS WILL AUTOMATICALLY LOCK, THE BACK DRIVER DOOR STARTED TO SLOWLY UNLOCK WHILE DRIVING, WHILE THE CAR WAS STOPPED, IT WOULD LOCK ONCE YOU GOT TO THE 5 MPH BUT THEN START UNLOCKING AGAIN. I REPLACED THE ACTUATORS FOR THE DRIVER SIDE DOORS AND NOW THE PASSENGER BACK DOOR LOCK STARTED MAKING NOISES AND IS STARTING TO UNLOCK ON ITS OWN. CALLED HONDA AND THEY SAID IT MUST HAPPEN OFTEN BECAUSE THEY HAVE THE PARTS FOR IT. I ASKED IF THERE WAS A RECALL AND THEY SAID NO, SO I HAD TO PURCHASE THE PARTS. *TR

THE CAR KEPT SAYING A DOOR WAS OPENED WHEN IT WASN'T AND THEN BECAUSE OF THAT THE CAR WOULDN'T LOCK WHEN I WAS IN IT AND THEN THE INTERIOR LIGHTS WOULDN'T GO OFF. THEN, IT JUST STOPPED HAPPENING. THEN ON 1/14, EVERY TIME I USED THE BRAKE WHEN I WAS DRIVING, THE DOORS WOULD UNLOCK AND THE INTERIOR LIGHTS WOULD GO ON. AND THEN WHEN I WOULD ACCELERATE THE DOORS WOULD LOCK AND THE INTERIOR LIGHTS WOULD GO OFF. THIS ALL BEGAN THE WEEK AFTER I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP TO GET NEW TIRES (WHERE THEY RIPPED ME OFF BY CHARGING ME $1,300 TO REPLACE 4 TIRES!). VERY FRUSTRATING. *TR

FRONT PASSANGER DOOR LOCK WILL BRIEFLY UNLOCK THEN ON ITS OWN LOCK ITSELF. YOU HAVE TO FORCE THE DOOR LOCK OPEN JUST TO GET OUT AND ONCE THE LOCK OPENS IT SLOWLY LOCKS ITSELF. THE KEY FOB AND LOCK SWITCH WILL BRIEFLY UNLOCK THE LATCH. (WE DO HAVE FACTORY INSTALLED ALARM). MY WIFE ALSO NOTICED DOME LIGHT NO LONGER COMING ON (MIGHT JUST BE DEAD BULB). THIS COULD BE A HUGE ISSUE IN AN ACCIDENT IF PASSENGER OR EMERGENCY PERSONAL ARE UNABLE TO OPEN DOOR DUE TO LOCK ALWAYS LOCKING ITSELF. A LOT OF FORCE IS NEEDED TO UNLOCK THE DOOR. IT SEEMS LIKE THE DOOR ACTUATOR IS GETTING A LOCK SIGNAL AND STAYING IN THE LOCKED POSITION. AGAIN YOU CAN MOMENTARILY MANUALLY FORCE THE DOOR LOCK OPEN AND WITH THE SWITCH/KEYFOB. RECENT REPAIRS: WE DID RECENTLY REPLACE THE CAR BATTERY BECAUSE THE CAR LOST ELECTRICAL POWER (CAR WOULD NOT START). WE ALSO JUST REPLACED THE AC/HEATER BLOWER MOTOR BECAUSE WHEN THE HVAC WAS POWERED ON WE HEARD VERY LOUD WHIRLING/CLICKING NOISE. WE ALSO JUST CHANGED ALL FOUR STRUTS BECAUSE THEY WERE LEAKING BUT NO ELECTRICAL WAS TOUCHED DURING THIS REPAIR. *TR

THE LOCKS ON THE HONDA CR-V 2008 ARE DEFECTIVE AND CAN POSE A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE. THE LOCKS ON THE DOOR LOCK AT WILL, WON'T UNLOCK WHEN I TRY TO UNLOCK THEM, AND LOCK WHILE I'M DRIVING AND/OR PUTTING THE REVERSE. PASSENGERS CANNOT GET OUT OF THE CAR, EVEN AFTER I PRESS THE UNLOCK BUTTON ON BOTH THE DOOR AND THE KEY. I FEAR THAT MY TODDLER IS GOING TO GET LOCKED INTO THE VEHICLE AND/OR TRAPPED IN IF WE ARE IN AN ACCIDENT. THIS IS A RECURRING PROBLEM THAT STARTED JUST A FEW MONTHS AFTER I BOUGHT THE VEHICLE AND MANY OTHER HONDA CR-V OWNERS ARE REPORTING THE SAME ISSUE, YET HONDA HAS NOT ISSUED A RECALL FOR THESE DEFECTIVE LOCKS. PLEASE ADDRESS THIS ISSUE AS A SAFETY ISSUE AND URGE THEM TO RECALL THESE LOCKS. *TR