2004 Chevrolet Cavalier

AT TIMES, DURING THE PAST SEVERAL MONTHS THIS VEHICLE HAS BEEN HARD TO START. HAD THE FUEL PUMP AND IGNITION SWITCH REPLACED, BUT DID NOT SEEM TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM. RECENTLY, THE CAR STALLED OUT WHILE DRIVING AND TOOK 15 MINUTES TO FINALLY RE-START. I HAVE READ ONLINE WHERE THIS HAS BEEN A PROBLEM FOR OTHER OWNERS OF CHEVY CAVALIERS- HARD TO START AND STALLS OUT SOMETIMES. NOT SURE WHAT IS CAUSING THE PROBLEM, BECAUSE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DOES NOT COME ON AND THERE IS NO CODE TO DIAGNOSIS/READ. *TR

THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER BOARD HAS STOPPED, WORKING AND APPEARS TO BE AN ONGOING ISSUE WITH GM ON SEVERAL MODELS (CAR AND TRUCK) BETWEEN 1998-2009. ALSO THE ABS, TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE ENGINE LIGHTS WILL NOT GO OFF. WINDOW DOORS ARE NOT WORKING AND APPEARS TO ALL RELATED TO THE CLUSTER PANEL. I HAVE REPLACED ALL ABS SENSORS, NEW BRAKES PADS, ROTORS, AND EVEN FRONT BEARINGS. THE ENGINE ITSELF WORKS GREAT AND IS FINE AND APPEARS THAT GM HAS DONE A GREAT JOB IN THIS PART. THE CLUSTER PANEL AND WIRING IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE AND NEEDS TO BE REVIEWED IN THESE MODELS. POOR GROUND WIRING AN CLUSTER PANELS CAN CAUSE CONSUMERS TO SPEND THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS IN REPAIRS AND STILL RESULTING IN THE SAME PROBLEM. CLUSTER PANEL REPLACEMENT CAN BE FROM $300 TO $800 DEPENDING ON YOUR LOCAL MECHANIC. THIS IS A SERIOUS ISSUE SINCE ABS AND TRACTION CONTROL ARE NOT WORKING DUE TO THE LONG LIST OF ISSUES. I RECOMMEND A RECALL ON CLUSTER PANELS FOR ALL CAVALIERS AND MODULES, WIRING AS WELL. *TR

THE PROBLEM ORIGINALLY STARTED WITH THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE (SHOWED THAT THE CAR WAS ALWAYS OVERHEATING) AND THEN EVENTUALLY STOPPED MOVING AT ALL. NEXT, THE RPMS STOPPED MOVING AND THE SPEEDOMETER BEGAN SHOWING THAT WE WERE GOING 100 WHEN WE COULDN'T HAVE BEEN GOING MORE THAN 35. NOW THE SPEEDOMETER DOESN'T MOVE AT ALL. SO, AT THIS POINT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO KNOW HOW FAST I AM GOING, IF THE CAR IS OVERHEATING, OR WHAT THE RPMS ARE. CURRENTLY THE FUEL GAUGE WORKS MOST OF THE TIME, BUT OCCASIONALLY AFTER FILLING UP THE TANK THE GAUGE WILL MOVE TO THE FAR RIGHT (AS IF IT'S TELLING US THAT THE TANK IS OVERFILLED), TO WHERE IT WOULD INTERFERE WITH THE OTHER GAUGES (IF THEY WERE WORKING). I FEEL THIS IS A BIG SAFETY PROBLEM AND AT THE VERY LEAST IS VERY ANNOYING (ALREADY BEEN PULLED OVER TWICE FOR GOING 10 MILES OVER, BECAUSE I HAD NO IDEA HOW FAST I WAS GOING). *TR

FIRST OF ALL MY INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FAILS, SOMETIMES YOU KNOW HOW FAST YOU ARE GOING, WHAT YOUR TACK IS AND YOU FUEL LEVEL, SOMETIMES YOU DON'T. I HAVE NEVER REALLY KNOWN MY MILEAGE SINCE I HAVE OWNED THE CAR. I ALSO HAVE ISSUES WITH THE CAR OCCASIONALLY NOT WANTING TO START OR REVING OF THE ENGINE AND ALL OF MY DUMMY LIGHTS COMING ON I WAS TOLD THAT IS MY IGNITION SWITCH,HOWEVER WHEN I CONTACTED GM THEY INFORMED ME CAVALIERS USED A DIFFERENT SWITCH THAN THE ONES IN THE RECALL. OK. BOTH OF THESE ARE SAFETY ISSUES, I WAS GOING TO GIVE THIS CAR TO MY SON FOR HIS FIRST CAR, BUT NO WAY! I CAN NOT TEACH HIM HOW TO DRIVE IN IT, BECAUSE THE CLUSTER DOESN'T FUNCTION AND THE IGNITION SWITCH ISSUES. GM WILL NOT ISSUE A RECALL FOR THIS VEHICLE AND KNOWS THERE ARE ISSUES, PRETTY SURE LAST GM I WILL OWN. *JS

MY WIFE'S INSTRUMENT CLUSTER ON HER 2004 CAVALIER HAS NOT WORKED SINCE ABOUT 80000 MILES . THE ONLY GAUGE THAT WORKS ANYMORE IS THE TACHOMETER. MY RESEARCH POINTS TO THE STEPPERS MOTORS . THIS IS NOT AN ISOLATED ISSUE . THERE ARE NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS CONCERNING THIS EXACT ISSUE , ALL OVER THE INTERNET . IS THIS NOT A SAFETY ISSUE , WHEN THE SPEEDOMETER DOES NOT WORK ? G.M. SHOULD BE HELD RESPONSIBLE . SHE HAS BEEN ESTIMATING HER SPEED BY THE TACHOMETER FOR FAR TOO LONG . PLEASE HAVE G.M. FIX THIS ISSUE BEFORE SOMEONE DIES ! THANK YOU . *TR

ALL OF THE TROUBLE LIGHTS COME ON INCLUDING THE SERVICE LIGHT WITH A WRENCH. THEN, ALL OF THE GAUGES DROP TO NOTHING; YOU DON'T KNOW HOW FAST YOU'RE TRAVELING, WHAT YOUR FUEL CAPACITY IS, THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE DROPS TO NOTHING ALONG WITH THE TACHOMETER DROPPING TO NOTHING. IN THE ODOMETER AND "ERROR" MESSAGE REPLACES THE ODOMETER READING. THE GAUGES WILL INTERMITTENTLY GO OFF AND ON OR ALL OF THEM WILL DROP OF WITH NO READING. THE OTHER EVENING, I WAS COMING HOME ON A WINDING BACK COUNTRY ROAD AND ALL OF MY LIGHTS WENT OUT. I HAVE TO LIMIT MY DRIVING TO DAYTIME DRIVING AND ONLY USE THE RUNNING LIGHTS AS IT APPEARS TO ONLY AGGRAVATE THE PROBLEM WHEN I USE MY HEADLIGHTS. TODAY, EVERYTHING ABOVE HAPPENED ALONG WITH SOME NEWS THINGS. THE VEHICLE WAS SHUT OFF, THE KEY WAS REMOVED FROM THE IGNITION AND THE RUNNING LIGHTS REMAINED ON AS DID THE WARNING ALARM AS THOUGH THE KEY WERE LEFT IN THE IGNITION. I LEFT THE CAR ONLY AFTER I PULLED THE LEFT AND RIGHT FUSE FROM THE PANEL. WHEN I RETURNED TO THE CAR, I INSERTED THE FUSES AND STARTED THE VEHICLE BUT WAS UNABLE TO SHIFT THE CAR INTO GEAR AS THE CAR WOULD NOT LET ME DEPRESS THE BUTTON ON THE SHIFTER TO DO SO. I HAVE TO NOW SHUT THE CAR OFF AND PULL THE IGNITION FUSE AND THEN REINSERT IT TO GET THE CAR IN GEAR. WHAT THE HECK? *TR

CAR WILL NOT START CONSISTENTLY. HAVE TO WAIT A COUPLE OF DAYS, THEN IT MAY START OR NOT. BUT IF IT STARTS, IT WILL NOT START AGAIN UNTIL DAYS GO BY............ IGNITION SHUT OFF ON ONE OCCASION WHEN OPERATING ON A PUBLIC ROAD. LOSS OF POWER, ENGINE AND POWER BRAKES.STEERING WHEEL DID NOT LOCK BUT COASTED VEHICLE OFF THE ROAD. *JS