2014 Chevrolet Captiva

CAR HAS NEVER MISSED AN OIL CHANGE, ACTUALLY SOMETIMES I GO BEFORE THE RECOMMENDED TIME. ALL OF SUDDEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS BECAUSE THERE IS NO OIL IN THE CAR. THE OIL WAS NOT EVEN DUE TO BE CHANGED, NO LEAKS AND NO SMELLS. CHEVY SHOULD BE ASHAMED OF THEMSELVES. ACCORDING TO GOOGLE THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM THAT HAPPENS TO THESE CARS AT OR AROUND 90K MILES. I GUESS I WAS LUCKY THAT I DID GET OIL CHANGES SO OFTEN, I MADE IT A LITTLE LONGER. THIS IS THE REASON THAT TOYOTA AND HONDA ARE DOING SO WELL. THEY MAKE QUALITY CARS AND ALTHOUGH EVERYONE SAYS SUPPORT US BASED COMPANIES, THINGS LIKE THIS MAKE IT HARD.

FREQUENTLY CAR WILL NOT START EVEN WITH GOOD BATTERY AND CABLE CONNECTIONS. WHILE DRIVING CAR WILL LOSE POWER. THE 3 GAUGES(RPM, SPEEDOMETER, AND GAS) ALL STOP AND WORKING. THE CAR WILL STILL RUN BUT AT A MUCH LESS POWER. SOMETIMES THEY START WORKING BUT RPMS WILL RUN VERY HIGH AND SPEED IS GREATLY DECREASED. MESSAGE COMES ACROSS TO SERVICE STABILITRAK AND TRACTION CONTROL. WARNING LIGHTS COME ON SUCH AS ABS, TCS WARNING,STABILITRAK INDICATOR, AND PARKING BRAKE WARNING. DOORS LOCK AND UNLOCK REPEATEDLY. AT TIMES HAVE BEEN ABLE TO RESET BY UNHOOKING BATTERY CABLE AND RECONNECTING AND WAITING. NO PATTERN AS TO WHEN AND WHY IT HAPPENS. MAJOR SAFETY CONCERN. HAVE EVEN REPLACED UNDER-HOOD FUSE BOX. OH AND KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION. WHILE I WILL PUT A DATE, KNOW THAT THIS IS HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES OVER THE LAST YEAR. USUALLY TWO TIMES A WEEK SOMETIMES MORE

IN JANUARY 2020 I TOOK THE CAR INTO THE SHOP AFTER HEARING NOISE FROM THE ENGINE. I HAD TO HAVE THE TIMING CHAIN REPLACED, BUT AS THEY LOOKED IT OVER THEY SAID THE ENGINE NEEDED REPLACED, DUE TO OIL LEAKING. A COUPLE WEEKS BEFORE IT WAS VERY COLD CLOSE TO 4 DEGREES AND WHILE I WAS DRIVING INTO WORK AT 6AM I HEARD A LOUD SOUND WHILE AT A RED LIGHT, IT SOUNDED LIKE A GUN SHOT. I ASSUMED IT WAS COMING FROM A NEARBY NEIGHBORHOOD. BUT TO FIND OUT MY MECHANIC SAID THAT WAS THE ENGINE FROZEN AND POPPED. HE SAID WHEN ITS COLD THAT HAPPENS TO THIS ENGINE. UNREAL! TWO WEEKS AGO, MY CAR STARTED TO SMELL LIKE IT WAS BURNING AND GAS. SO I TOOK IT IN AND THEY REPLACED THE CAT CONVERTER,EXHAUST MANIFOLD, AND LEAKING SEAL. LAST WEEK, I WENT TO UNLOCK THE DOORS WITH THE REMOTE THE REAR WIPER FLUID MOTOR STARTED AND RAN CONTINUOUSLY, TO THE POINT IT DOESN'T WORK AT ALL NOW. NOW THIS WEEK MY TRUNK WILL NOT OPEN, BOTH FRONT HEAD LIGHTS BURNT OUT, MY TRACTION CONTROL KEEPS TURNING ON/OFF, MY SPEAKERS ARE POPPING, RADIO IS CUTTING IN/OUT. I BOUGHT THIS CAR FROM THE DEALER IN 2014 WITH 12K MILES ON IT, ALWAYS SERVICED THE VEHICLE, CHANGED THE OIL REGULARLY, INSPECTED YEARLY, PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE EVERY 6 MONTHS. NOW HAVE 83K MILES AND I NEED THIS CAR TO LAST ME TWO MORE YEARS. *TR

THE IGNITION SWITCH ON MY 2014 CHEVY CAPTIVA GETS STUCK AND IT DOES NOT ALLOW THE KEY TO BE REMOVED WHEN TURNING IT OFF WHEN STATIONARY. UPON PERSONAL RESEARCH IT WAS DISCOVERED THAT THIS MODEL HAS HAD THIS ISSUE WITH COUNTLESS DRIVERS (TYPICALLY AT 40K-50K MILES) AND IS NOT ADDRESSED BY GM AS A RECALL OR SAFETY ISSUE. HOWEVER, WHEN THE SWITCH IS UNABLE TO BE REMOVED IT IS A SENSORY ISSUE, THE VEHICLE KEY IS ALSO ABLE TO COME OUT WHILE ON DRIVE. A SIMPLE SEARCH 'CHEVY CAPTIVA KEY STUCK' WILL RESULT IN MANY SUCH INCIDENTS.

I BOUGHT THE CAR USED AND WITHIN THE FIRST 7 DAYS WHEN I WAS LEAVING FOR WORK, THE CAR WOULDN'T START. THE LIGHTS FLICKERED 1 TIME AND THEN WENT OFF. I TURNED THE KEY BACK THINKING I HAD A BAD CRANK AND THEN TRIED TO START IT UP AGAIN, THERE WAS NO LIGHTS OR ANYTHING. TRIED TO TAKE THE KEY OUT THE IGNITION, THE KEY WOULD NOT COME OUT. AFTER PLAYING WITH THE CAR, TRYING TO JUMP IT, I LOST HOME AND WAS REACHING TO TAKE MY BADGE OUT FROM BETWEEN THE SEATS. WHEN I WAS PUSHING THE SEATS BACKWARDS, THE LIGHTS CAME BACK IN AND THE CAR STARTED. 2 DAYS LATER WHEN I GOT HOME FROM GROCERY SHOPPING, I HIT THE CLICKER TO UNLOCK THE TRUNK, IT WOULDN'T OPEN, TRIED TO UNLOCK IT FROM THE DOOR, WOULDN'T OPEN. PUT THE KEY IN THE IGNITION, CAR WOULDN'T TURN ON AND THE KEY WOULDN'T COME OUT THE IGNITION.

I ABSOLUTELY LOVE MY CAR. I TAKE IT IN FOR REGULAR MAINTENANCE. IT HAS 71K MILES. WITHIN THE PAST (9) SERPENTINE BELT CAME COMPLETELY OFF, POWER STEERING PUMP HAD TO BE REPLACED, ENGINE COMPLETELY DIED ELECTRICAL SYSTEM NEEDED TO BE REPAIRED. CAR OUT OF COMMISSION FOR (3) WEEKS, HAD IT TOWED FROM SITE TO MY MECHANIC AND TOWED FROM THEIR TO BOWSER CHEVROLET.. NOW MY ENGINE LIGHT IS ON. SENSOR WAS REPLACED LAST WEEK, LIGHT WENT OUT; MY ENGINE LIGHT IS BACK ON. I WILL BE TAKING IT IN FOR REPAIRS. P0420 ISSUE. I'M HOPING IT FALLS WITHIN PA STATE SPECIFIED MAJOR EMISSION-CONTROL COMPONENTS ARE WARRANTED FOR THE FIRST 8 YEARS OR 80,000 MILES OF VEHICLE USE.

MY CURRENT PROBLEM IS THAT I AM NOW IN NEED OF A NEW ENGINE DUE TO THE FACT THAT THIS ENGINE, THE SAME ENGINE THAT IS IN THE CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT, USES AN EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF OIL AND THEREFORE HAS CAUSED MOTOR DAMAGE OVER THE PAST 6 YEARS. I REGULARLY CHANGE MY OIL, BUT DIDN'T REALIZE HOW MUCH OIL THIS ENGINE GOES THROUGH IN ADDITION TO REGULAR OIL CHANGES. IT SHOULD NOT NEED A NEW ENGINE AT THIS POINT IF THE ENGINE FUNCTIONED CORRECTLY. IN ADDITION, A FEW MONTHS BACK I HAVE DIFFICULTY WITH THE CAR NOT STARTING AS IF THE BATTERY WAS DEAD. NO ELECTRICAL WOULD WORK AT ALL IN THE CAR EVEN WITH A NEW BATTERY. I WOULD HAVE TO MESS WITH THE BATTERY CONNECTIONS TO GET THE CAR TO START OR HIT THE FUSE BOX. ALSO, I HAVE HAD TIME WITH THE KEY GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND DRAINING THE BATTERY.