2007 Yamaha FJR1300

2007 YAMAHA FJR 1300 AE, 11,000 MILES. - INTERMITTENT PROBLEMS WITH SHIFTING. AFTER RIDING ABOUT 10 MINUTES, BEGAN DOWNSHIFTING TO EXIT THE FREEWAY WHEN THE TRANSMISSION BECAME LOCKED IN 4TH GEAR. ONCE THIS HAPPENED, IT WOULD NOT UP OR DOWN SHIFT WITH EITHER THE HAND OR FOOT SHIFTER. THEN I STOPPED THE MOTORCYCLE AND TURNED OFF THE ENGINE. THEN TURNED THE KEY BACK ON AND WAS ABLE TO CLICK DOWN TO 2ND GEAR. REIGNITED THE ENGINE AND BIKE SNAPPED INTO GEAR (STILL IN 2ND). AFTER THIS, THE BIKE RESUMED NORMAL FUNCTION. CONCERN IS THAT IF THIS HAD HAPPENED IN BUSY TRAFFIC, I MAY HAVE LOST THE ABILITY TO MANEUVER EFFECTIVELY AND BEEN KILLED. TOOK THE BIKE STRAIGHT TO A SHOP AND THAT'S WHERE IT WILL STAY UNTIL THE DEFECT IS RESOLVED. *TR

I PURCHASED A BRAND NEW 2007 FJR1300 YAMAHA IN JUNE OF 08. TO DATE MOTORCYCLE HAS 1151 MILES ON IT. FROM DAY ONE MOTORCYCLE HAD A VERY STICKY CLUTCH. I ALWAYS WARM UP THE BIKE TO 2 OR 4 BARS AND THEN ATTEMPT TO PUT BIKE INTO FIRST GEAR, PULL IN THE CLUTCH WITH BRAKE APPLIED AND BIKE WOULD SHUT OFF. I WOULD RESTART THE BIKE, PULL IN THE CLUTCH WITH BRAKE GENTLY APPLIED AND BIKE WOULD CLUNK INTO 1ST AND LURCH FORWARD. WHEN COMING TO FIRST STOP, TRYING TO DOWNSHIFT FROM 3RD TO 2ND OR 2ND TO 1ST THERE WAS A 1-3 SECOND DELAY REGARDLESS OF RPM, AND AT TIMES WOULD NOT DOWNSHIFT AT ALL WHICH MEANT I WOULD COME TO A STOP WITH CLUTCH PULLED IN. AS THE BIKE WOULD WARM UP THE CLUTCH BECAME LESS STICKY AS I RODE AROUND TOWN. HOWEVER, ONCE I RODE ON FREEWAY TO WORK, APPROXIMATELY 35-50MIN RIDE, AND TRIED TO DOWNSHIFT ON THE OFFRAMP BIKE AGAIN WAS STICKY OR WOULD NOT DOWNSHIFT WITHOUT 1-3 SECOND DELAY. THIS BECAME PROGRESSIVELY WORSE UNTIL I FELT MY LIFE WAS IN DANGER AND I TOOK BIKE INTO DEALER AT 1151 MILES. DEALER OPENED UP CLUTCH AND FOUND THAT 2 CLUTCH TABS WERE IMPROPERLY PULLED IN? DEALER ALSO STATED THAT WASHERS WERE NOT ASSEMBLED PROPERLY. I HAVE YET TO RIDE BIKE SINCE REPAIR. *TR

WHEN INITIALLY SHIFTING INTO FIRST GEAR A LOUD CLUNK IS HEARD IN THE TRANSMISSION AND THE BIKE WILL LURCH FORWARD AND TAKE OFF OR IF THE BRAKE IS APPLY THE ENGINE WILL STALL. THEN THE CLUTCH BREAKS LOOSE AND YOU CAN DRIVE AWAY. THE BIKE WILL UPSHIFT HARD AND SHIFT TIMING IS CRITICAL. THEN WHEN YOU APPROACH AN INTERSECTION AND NEED TO DOWN SHIFT YOU NEED TO USE THE BRAKES TO BREAK LOOSE THE CLUTCH. AFTER SEVERAL MILES IT WARMS UP AND BECOMES LESS STICKY. THE CLUTCH WILL DISENGAGE AFTER A FEW SECONDS AND THEN YOU CAN SHIFT. IF YOU DON'T USE THE CLUTCH FOR SEVERAL MILES IT GETS STICKY AGAIN. IF YOU LET IT SIT FOR 8 HOURS IT GETS LOCKED UP. THIS STARTED MILDLY AT 500 MILES AND HAS GOT PROGRESSIVELY WORSE. THIS CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS FOR AN INEXPERIENCED RIDER. *TR