2000 MAZDA 626DX 4CYL. WITH 93,200 MILES AND THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FAILED. VEHICLE IS MAINTAINED EXCEPTIONALLY WELL AND ALL FILTERS AND FLUIDS CHANGED REGULARLY. TRANSMISSION SLIPS BETWEEN SHIFTING GEARS AND ERRATICALLY SHIFTS FROM HIGH TO LOW WITH DRAMATIC LOSS OF POWER. *TR
2000 Mazda 626
Owner reports · Recalls · Investigations
More warning signs than most 626 years
Owner complaints for the 2000 Mazda 626 are substantially higher than the model-year median of 44.
About this comparison →How this year compares
Owner complaints by model year
Compare all 626 years →Counts vary with age, sales and reporting. They are not failure rates.
What owners reported most
All reported categories
Tap a category to read its complaints. One report may name several components.
When problems were reported
Mileage at the reported incident
147 reports with mileage · 70 unknown
NHTSA’s mileage field refers to the reported incident, not necessarily the filing date. This shows report counts, not the likelihood of a failure.
What to inspect
Issues worth paying extra attention to based on owner reports.
- Power Train. Review the 160 owner reports in this category and discuss these concerns during a pre-purchase inspection. Read reports →
- Engine And Engine Cooling. Review the 18 owner reports in this category and discuss these concerns during a pre-purchase inspection. Read reports →
- Service Brakes, Hydraulic. Review the 14 owner reports in this category and discuss these concerns during a pre-purchase inspection. Read reports →
NHTSA owner reports · September 18, 2026 snapshot.
What owners actually said
217 reportsMY 2000 MAZDA 626 (AUTOMATIC) BEGAN "JERKING" DURING ACCELERATION. WHILE ACCELERATING THERE IS AN INITIAL PAUSE AND THEN THE CAR JERKS AS SPEED INCREASES. IT SEEMS AS THOUGH THE CAR IS HAVING DIFFICULTY SWITCHING GEARS. WITHIN 10 MINUTES THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. I IMMEDIATELY WENT TO A REPAIR SHOP. THEY INDICATED THE ERRO…
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MY 2000 MAZDA 626 (AUTOMATIC) BEGAN "JERKING" DURING ACCELERATION. WHILE ACCELERATING THERE IS AN INITIAL PAUSE AND THEN THE CAR JERKS AS SPEED INCREASES. IT SEEMS AS THOUGH THE CAR IS HAVING DIFFICULTY SWITCHING GEARS. WITHIN 10 MINUTES THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. I IMMEDIATELY WENT TO A REPAIR SHOP. THEY INDICATED THE ERROR CODES SUGGEST THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE TRANSMISSION CONVERTER AND THAT I WILL NEED TO REPLACE OR REBUILD THE TRANSMISSION. ESTIMATED COSTS FOR THIS ARE FROM $3100 TO ALMOST $4000. *TR
TIRE SLOWLY LEAKING AIR, TIRE WAS REMOVED AND TAKEN TO A SERVICE STATION ON TWO OCCASIONS WHERE THERE WAS NO SIGN OF LEAKING. FINAL TIME TIRE WAS TAKEN TO THE STATION IT WAS FLAT AND THEY SAID THAT THE SIDE WALL WAS DEFECTIVE. *TR
I PURCHASED A 2000 MAZDA 626 USED IN 2001. I TOOK THE CAR IN FOR REPAIRS TO THE CINCINNATI JAKE SWEENY MAZDA SHOP TO ADDRESS THE SHAKING AND NOISES THAT I WAS HEARING FROM THE FRONT AND REAR OF THE VEHICLE. I WAS TOLD THAT THE CAR WAS OKAY THE MOTOR MOUNTS WERE FINE AND THAT THE NOISE WAS FROM A BOTTLE OF ASPIRIN IN THE GLOVE BO…
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I PURCHASED A 2000 MAZDA 626 USED IN 2001. I TOOK THE CAR IN FOR REPAIRS TO THE CINCINNATI JAKE SWEENY MAZDA SHOP TO ADDRESS THE SHAKING AND NOISES THAT I WAS HEARING FROM THE FRONT AND REAR OF THE VEHICLE. I WAS TOLD THAT THE CAR WAS OKAY THE MOTOR MOUNTS WERE FINE AND THAT THE NOISE WAS FROM A BOTTLE OF ASPIRIN IN THE GLOVE BOX. THE NOISE CONTINUED AND OTHER SHOPS CONTINUED TO INFORM ME THAT MY MOTOR MOUNTS WERE BAD. I WAS AGAIN INFORMED BY THE REPAIR SHOP THAT THE CAR WAS FINE. THE VEHICLE NOW HAS 140,000 MILES ON IT AND THE MOTOR MOUNTS, SWAY LINK BAR AND STRUTS ARE ALL SHOT TO HECK. I AM VERY DISAPPOINTED BEING THAT THIS ISSUE WAS ADDRESSED WHEN THE CAR WAS UNDER WARRANTY AND THE DEALERSHIP NEGLECTED TO FIX THE PROBLEM WHICH NOW HAS ESCALATED. *TR
THE TRANSMISSION GAVE OUT. 112,000 MILES. I GOT THE TRANSMISSION REPLACED, AND RIGHT AFTER THE WARRANTY WAS OVER, THE TRANSMISSION GAVE OUT. THE O/D LIGHT COMES ON, THE CAR OVERHEATS, AND IT DOES NOT SHIFT INTO 4TH GEAR. *TR
I HAD THE TRANSMISSION REPLACED ONCE ALREADY. THE TRANSMISSION I HAVE NOW WHEN DRIVING ON A HWY AT 50MPH AND ABOVE WITH START TO JERK IN AND OUT FROM 2000 TO 3000RPM AND THE O/D SWITCH LIGHT WILL BLINK. AFTER THIS HAPPENS, IT DOESN'T MATTER WHAT SPEED THE VEHICLE IS IN, IT RESPONDS THE SAME. *TR
FAULTY TRANSMISSION. *TR
TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 MAZDA 626. WHENEVER THE CONTACT IS INSIDE THE VEHICLE, SHE SMELLS GASOLINE, BUT CANNOT DETERMINE THE ORIGIN OF THE SMELL. WHENEVER SHE FILLS THE GAS TANK, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ILLUMINATES AND THE VEHICLE BEGINS TO LOSE FUEL BEFORE AND WHILE THE VEHICLE IS DRIVEN. THE CONTACT DID NOT NOTICE ANY DIF…
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TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2000 MAZDA 626. WHENEVER THE CONTACT IS INSIDE THE VEHICLE, SHE SMELLS GASOLINE, BUT CANNOT DETERMINE THE ORIGIN OF THE SMELL. WHENEVER SHE FILLS THE GAS TANK, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ILLUMINATES AND THE VEHICLE BEGINS TO LOSE FUEL BEFORE AND WHILE THE VEHICLE IS DRIVEN. THE CONTACT DID NOT NOTICE ANY DIFFERENCES IN THE VEHICLE PRIOR TO THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE HAS NOT BEEN DIAGNOSED BY THE DEALER. THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 70,000 AND FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 62,500.
I BOUGHT MY 2000 MAZDA 626, 2.0L ENGINE, AUTOMATIC, IN 2001, BRAND NEW. I HAVE PUT ~100,000 MILES ON IT, MOSTLY HIGHWAY. THEN ONE DAY, WITH NO WARNING, THE TRANSMISSION JUST FAILED ON THE HIGHWAY. *TR
MINE CAR IS AN EIGHT YEARS OLD NICE LITTLE CAR. IT RUNS PRETTY WELL DESPITE THE FACT THAT THE TRANSMISSION FLUID GET VERY DIRTY EVERY 10,000 TO 12,000 MILES DESPITE OLD TWO-YEAR/30,000-MILE INTERVAL THAT USED TO BE CONSIDERED THE NORM FOR TRANSMISSION SERVICE IS GOOD FOR THE 626; I HAVE TO DO A FULL TRANSMISSION FLUSH TO KEEP IT…
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MINE CAR IS AN EIGHT YEARS OLD NICE LITTLE CAR. IT RUNS PRETTY WELL DESPITE THE FACT THAT THE TRANSMISSION FLUID GET VERY DIRTY EVERY 10,000 TO 12,000 MILES DESPITE OLD TWO-YEAR/30,000-MILE INTERVAL THAT USED TO BE CONSIDERED THE NORM FOR TRANSMISSION SERVICE IS GOOD FOR THE 626; I HAVE TO DO A FULL TRANSMISSION FLUSH TO KEEP IT RUNNING. YES, IT'S EXPENSIVE FOR THE TRANNY. RECENTLY, THE REAL PROBLEM HAS APPEARED. MY IDLE RPM IS AROUND 700, WHEN I SHIFT THE GEAR IN TO REVERSE, IT DIDN'T SHIFT PROPERLY. I FEEL NOTHING AT ALL. I MEAN WHEN A CAR SITTING ON A FLAT SURFACE, IT DOESN'T MOVE EVEN A LITTLE BIT. IF I GENTLY STEP ON THE GAS PEDAL TILL THE RPM HIT AROUND 1000, THERE IS A HUGE PUMPING ON MY TRANSMISSION AND THE CAR INCONSISTENTLY MOVE BACKWARD. IF I LET THE PEDAL GO AND HIT AND THEN RELEASE THE BRAKE, IT STAND TILL AGAIN. I BROUGHT IT TO THE SHOP AND HAVE THEM RUN THE DIAGNOSE TEST. THEY SAID THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH IT. THEY HAVE TO LOOK INSIDE. IT'S TOO PROBLEMATIC. THE REPAIR COST IS ESTIMATED AROUND 2,000. WHICH IS MORE THAN THE VALUE OF MY CAR. AND THE TRANSMISSION IS NOT EVEN A NEW ONE, IT'S A REBUILT WHICH IS LIKELY TO BE BROKEN AGAIN. I THINK THERE IS A DEFECTS IN THE TRANNY SYSTEM. *TR
Official recalls
100V074000 · Service Brakes, Hydraulic:foundation Components:master Cylinder
Mar 7, 2000
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PASSENGER VEHICLES. CERTAIN RESERVOIR TANK CAPS ON THE BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER WERE PRODUCED WITH A WORN OUT DIE AND LACK VENTILATION HOLES. AS A RESULT, THE PRESSURE IN THE RESERVOIR TANK CAN DROP GRADUALLY AS THE BRAKE PAD OR SHOE WEARS AND AMBIENT TEMPERATURE DROPS. ALSO, THE PRESSURE COULD REACH A POINT THAT THE BRAKE CALIPER AND DRUM CYLINDER ARE PULLED BACK BY THE VACUUM IN THE RESERVOIR TANK WHEN THE VEHICLE IS PARKED FOR A LONG TIME.
Consequence & remedy
Consequence: THIS CONDITION COULD CAUSE REDUCED BRAKE EFFICIENCY, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
Remedy: DEALERS WILL INSPECT THE RESERVOIR CAP AND REPLACE IT, IF NECESSARY.
Model-level recall history does not show whether a particular VIN is affected or has received a repair. Check a VIN with NHTSA ↗
NHTSA investigations
0No exact-year investigations in this snapshot.
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