2001 Jeep Wrangler

THIS IS BEEN AN ONGOING PROBLEM SINCE I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE THE FRAME IS PRETTY MUCH COMPLETELY ROTTED AWAY BASICALLY SINCE THE DAY I BOUGHT IT IT IS COST ME ALMOST $4000 TO GET THE FRAME REPAIR OF REPEATABLY. ONE SUCH TIME MY TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER CASE ACTUALLY FELL OUT BECAUSE THE SKID PLATE ROTTED OUT FOR BOLTS ON. THIS SPECIFIC REPAIR COST ME ALMOST $3000 TO FIX AS I HAD TO GET ANOTHER TRANSFER CASE AND A NEWPORT OF RAIL MADE. I ALSO HAVE MY REAR UPPER CONTROL ARM MOUNTS RUST OFF OF THE FRAME DESTROYING MY REAR AXLE . THAT WAS ANOTHER $2000 REPLACEMENT. I HAVE SEEN INSTANCES AT THE SHOP WHERE PORTS OF FALLING OFF OF THESE VEHICLES DUE TO THE SAME ISSUE. I RESPECT THE TOYOTA RECALL THE RUSTED FRAMES AND I THINK IT'S FINALLY TIME TO MAKE CHRYSLER DO THE SAME . THEY HAVE KNOWN THIS IS AN ISSUE SINCE THE 80S AND CONTINUE TO DO THIS.

ANOTHER VICTIM OF THE 2000-2001 JEEP 4.0L CYLINDER HEAD CRACKING BETWEEN CYLINDERS 3 AND 4 ON THE CYLINDER HEAD. CRACKED HEAD HAS CAUSED MANY OTHER EXPENSIVE PROBLEMS THROUGHOUT THE ENGINE SUCH AS (COOLANT SYSTEM FAILURE, CRANKCASE BEARING FAILURES, OIL PUMP FAILURE, VALVE STEMS BEING WARPED, ETC.) AFTER EXTENSIVE RESEARCH AND BEING A PART OF MANY ONLINE POLLS THIS IS OBVIOUSLY A PROBLEM WITH JEEPS OF ALL MODELS THAT HAVE THE 4.0L INLINE 6 CYLINDER HEADS OF THESE YEARS. THE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION WHEN CRACKED HEAD OCCURRED CAUSING THE ENGINE TO OVERHEAT AS WELL AS OIL PRESSURE TO DROP. ALSO CAUSED MALFUNCTION AND RUINED O2 SENSORS ON VEHICLE. THE CYLINDER HEADS IN THESE 2000-2001 JEEPS OF ALL MODELS ARE FAULTY AND IT IS OBVIOUS CAUSE JEEP CHANGED THE HEADS THE FOLLOWING YEAR IN 2002. THEY CLAIM THAT THESE HEADS ARE CRACKING DUE TO THE ENGINE OVERHEATING. THIS PARTICULAR JEEP HAS NEVER BEEN OVERHEATED IN ORDER FOR IT TO CAUSE THE CYLINDER HEAD TO CRACK. THEY ARE FAULTY.

(*NOTE: I LIVE IN CT, USA. I PARK MY JEEP IN THE GARAGE WHEN IT SNOWS, AND IN THE DRIVEWAY THE REST OF THE TIME.) WHILE RETRIEVING SOMETHING OUT OF THE BACK SEAT, I STEPPED UP ON THE RUNNING BOARD (AKA. SIDE STEP) AND AS I LEANED IN, IT RIPPED RIGHT OUT OF THE FRAME. WITHIN A MONTH OF THIS, MY SKID PLATE ROTTED OUT OF THE FRAME AND LEFT MY TRANSMISSION UNSUPPORTED AND MY UNIVERSAL JOINT HANGING AT 30 DEGREE ANGLE. I BROUGHT IT TO MY MECHANIC, WHO TOLD ME TO TAKE IT STRAIGHT TO A BODY SHOP. IT'S BEEN THERE TWO WEEKS NOW! I PURCHASED 2 SKID PLATE MOUNT REPLACEMENTS WHICH THEY ARE WELDING ON RIGHT NOW. *NOTE: I'D UPLOAD PICTURES OF MY FRAME, BUT MY JEEP IS STILL IN THE SHOP. SO... (ATTACHED) ARE SOME PICTURES OF THE RUNNING BOARD AND RUSTED-OUT MOUNTS.

THE FRAME ON THE TJ MODEL YEARS WRANGLERS ARE MADE IN A BOX DESIGN WITH NO DRAIN HOLES AT THE BOTTOM SO WHEN WATER OR OTHER CORROSIVES GET IN THEY ARE TRAPPED AND THIS MAKES THE FRAME RUST FROM THE INSIDE OUT. BY THE TIME THIS IS DETECTED IT'S TO LATE ,THE FRAME IS UNSAFE AND WON'T PAS INSPECTION. DON'T WAIT UNTIL SOMEONE IS KILLED BECAUSE OFF THIS VERY UNSAFE DESIGN, DO SOMETHING NOW.

WAS TRAVELING DOWN DIRT ROAD AT AT 20 TO 25 MPH, THEN HEARD DIFFERENT NOISE LIKE METAL SCRAPING. SHIFTING SEEMED A LITTLE HARDER BUT WAS STILL WORKING. AFTER RETURNING HOME I LOOKED UNDER THE JEEP AND FOUND THE TRANSMISSION SKID PLATE HAD RUSTED AWAY FROM THE FRAME AND ONLY 3 BOLTS ON THE DRIVERS SIDE HOLDING THE TRANSMISSION IN PLACE. IF TRAVELING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS AND IF BOTH SIDES BROKE LOOSE THIS WOULD HAVE BEEN A DIFFERENT STORY. I'VE DONE SOME CHECKING AFTER THIS HAPPENS AND LEARNED THIS IS A COMMON ISSUE AS WELL AS RUSTING OUT IN OTHER PLACES WITH JEEPS AND THINK THE MANUFACTURER HAS AND LEAST SOME LIABILITY WITH THIS ONGOING ISSUE.

WHEN SITTING IN MY DRIVEWAY WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING I NOTICED A BURNT ODOR SMELL FROM THE DASH AREA. THE AIR CONDITIONER WAS RUNNING ON HIGH BLOWER AND ON THE MAX SETTING OF INTERNAL AIR FLOW. THE BLOWER STOPPED WORKING SHORTLY AFTER THIS HAPPENED. UPON INSPECTION OF THE BLOWER SWITCH I FOUND THE SWITCH HAD STARTED TO BURN AND MELT AT THE CONNECTION FOR THE MAX BLOWER SPEED. I HAVE REPLACED THE SWITCH TWICE NOW WITH THE SAME PROBLEM,THE CIRCUIT NEEDS A RELAY IN IT TO PREVENT THE BLOWER SWITCH FROM OVER HEATING AND CAUSING THE WIRE FROM BURNING UP. AT NO TIME WAS THE FUSE BLOWN ON THE CIRCUIT.

MY FRAME RUSTED OUT. THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM ON JEEP WRANGLERS. I WAS LUCKY ENOUGH TO BE IN THE PROCESS OF CHANGING MY TRANSMISSION FLUID WHEN I FOUND THE ISSUE. THE PART OF THE FRAME WHERE THE TRANSMISSION MOUNT ATTACHES TO COMPLETELY RUSTED THROUGH AND NOTHING WAS HOLDING THE TRANSMISSION/REAR ENGINE MOUNT TO THE FRAME. *TR