2007 Jeep Compass 4X4

SHORTLY AFTER REFUELING, THE CAR STALLED OUT WHEN IDLING AT A STOP LIGHT. THIS STALLING HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES AFTER THIS, ALWAYS IMMEDIATELY AFTER REFILLING THE TANK. USUALLY THE CAR WILL STALL SHORTLY AFTER YOU DRIVE AWAY FROM THE GAS STATION AND SLOW DOWN OR COME TO A STOP. THE CAR WILL START UP AGAIN BUT MAY STALL AGAIN IF YOU ONLY TRAVEL A SHORT DISTANCE AND SLOW DOWN OR STOP. THE NEXT TIME YOU DRIVE, THE CAR IS USUALLY OK AND HAS NO FURTHER PROBLEMS UNTIL THE TANK IS FILLED AGAIN. AFTER READING SEVERAL INTERNET FORUMS, THIS PROBLEM IS QUITE COMMON TO CHRYSLER VEHICLES. THE PROBLEM IS THE VAPOR/LIQUID SEPARATOR VALVE LOCATED AT THE TOP OF THE FUEL TANK. THE VALVE FAILS AND ALLOWS LIQUID INTO THE CHARCOAL CANISTER/EMISSIONS SYSTEM. LIQUID FUEL THEN GETS SENT INTO THE MANIFOLD INTAKE BY MISTAKE WHICH STALLS THE CAR OUT. THIS COULD BE A MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE IF THE CAR STALLS WHILE YOU ARE TURNING INTO TRAFFIC AND IT ALSO CAUSES YOU TO LOSE STEERING AND BRAKING POWER. IT IS OBVIOUSLY A DESIGN FLAW BY CHRYSLER AND THE ONLY FIX IS TO HAVE A WHOLE NEW GAS TANK INSTALLED BECAUSE THERE ISN'T A WAY TO JUST REPLACE JUST THE FAULTY VALVE. IT IS BUILT IN TO THE TANK. *TR

WITHOUT WARNING, MY 2007 JEEP COMPASS COMPLETELY DIED AND WOULD NOT START. I HAD IT TOWED TO A MECHANIC WHO INITIALLY THOUGHT IT WAS THE COMPUTER. AFTER FURTHER TESTING, HOWEVER, THEY DETERMINED THAT THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE (TPIM) WAS DEFECTIVE AND HAD ALSO FRIED OUT THE COMPUTER, REQUIRING THAT BOTH PARTS BE REPLACED FOR A TOTAL OF NEARLY $2,000. GIVEN THAT THIS IS A DEFECT THAT MANY JEEP USERS ARE EXPERIENCING, THE PART IS ON BACK ORDER AND I'VE BEEN WITHOUT A VEHICLE FOR MY 3 YEAR-OLD DAUGHTER FOR NEARLY 2 WEEKS. THE JEEP COULD HAVE STALLED OUT WHILE DRIVING OR COULD HAVE LEFT US STRANDED. CHRYSLER NEEDS TO ISSUE A RECALL ON THEIR FAULTY TPIM'S AND REPLACE ALL THE DAMAGE THAT THEY CAUSE! *TR

HAD VEHICLE IN SHOP TO DO A ROUTINE OIL CHANGE AND TIRE ROTATION, WAS TOLD THAT BOTH LOWER BALL JOINTS WERE BAD AND THEY WOULD NOT RECOMMEND DRIVING VEHICLE WAS 40 MILES FROM HOME WITH NO WAY TO GET THERE HAD TO DRIVE THEY SAY IT WAS UNUSUAL FOR BOTH TO GO AT THAT LOW MILEAGE BUT THE COULD NOT FIND A RECALL SO I GOOGLED THE PROBLEM THERE IS NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS OF THIS. THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD THEY NEED TO RECALL BEFORE SOMEONE IS HURT OR KILLED. *TR

I'M JUST GOING TO LIST THE PROBLEMS WITH DATES TO MAKE IT EASIER TO GET A VISUAL OF THE PROBLEM! 2009 4X4 INDICATOR LIGHT CAME ON - OIL LEAKING OUT OF SOME 4X4 BOX/BEARINGS MISSING WENT BAD 50,000 MILES CAN'T REMEMBER THE EXACT NAME OF THE PART, BUT COULD CALL THE DEALER AND FIND OUT WHAT IT WAS, 3/7/12 - CV NUT LOCK COVERS NEEDED REPLACED - RUSTED OUT, LEFT OUTER TIE ROD REPLACED, 3/17/13 - BOTH CONTROL ARMS REPLACED, 4/3/13 - RIGHT TIE ROD (INNER AND OUTER) REPLACED, 1/17/14, FRONT ENGINE CRADLE REPLACED, 3/28/14 - RIGHT WHEEL BEARING REPLACED, BOTH CONTROLS ARMS REPLACED AGAIN, AXLE REPLACED, 5/16/14 - NOTIFIED THAT RIGHT TIE ROD NEEDED REPLACED AGAIN. THIS IS BY FAR ONE OF THE MOST POORLY DESIGNED VEHICLES THAT I HAVE OWNED. IT CURRENTLY HAS 80,000 MILES ON IT AND ALL OF THE THINGS REPLACED SHOULD NOT HAVE NEEDED REPLACED AND NOT HAVE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED TWICE TO BOOT! I WOULD NEVER AGAIN PURCHASE OR RECOMMEND PURCHASE TO ANYONE. PARTS GOING BAD THIS QUICKLY IS A DANGER TO ANY OTHER PARTS THAT MAY GO UNNOTICED UNTIL IT'S TOO LATE! *TR

WHEN ATTEMPTING TO FILL THE GAS TANK AT ANY COMMERCIAL GAS STATION THE PUMP NOZZLE SHUTS OFF IMMEDIATELY. IT'S ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO FILL THE GAS TANK SINCE ONLY A FEW OUNCES OF FUEL IS RELEASED BEFORE THE NOZZLE SHUTS OFF. SOMETIMES JUST BEFORE THE NOZZLE SHUTS, GAS AND BUBBLES ARE RELEASED OUT OF THE FILLER NECK. THIS PROBLEM WILL CAUSE THE VEHICLE TO BE WORTHLESS FOR A TRADE -IN OR A PERSONAL SALE. TO REPAIR THE PROBLEM THE GAS TANK AND FILLER TUBE MUST BE REPLACED. THE COST IS AROUND $500. PLUS LABOR. THE FLAP VALVE CAN'T BE REPAIRED SINCE IT'S CONNECTED TO THE VEHICLE COMPUTER AND WILL SHOW A SAFETY WARNING STATING THAT THE ROLL OVER SAFETY FEATURE IS DISABLED. THERE ARE OTHER MODEL YEARS OF JEEPS THAT HAD A RECALL AND THIS 2007 MODEL SHOULD HAVE A SAFETY RECALL. *TR

MY JEEP JUST WENT OVER 6 YEARS AS ME AS THE SOLE OWNER. THE JEEP IS NOT USED AS ANY TYPE OF OFF ROADING. HAD ISSUE WITH AN OIL CHANGE THAT BROUGHT CAR INTO JEEP DEALERSHIP. A MINOR CLEANUP WAS ALL THAT WAS NEEDED. HOWEVER, I WAS ADVISED THAT THIS EXTREMELY LOW MILEAGE JEEP HAD TIE ROD ISSUES THAT COULD RESULT VERY SOON IN A TERRIBLE ACCIDENT FOR ME. I HAVE HANKOOK TIRES ON THE CAR. I THOUGHT THE CAR DROVE OKAY. I'M SEEING MANY OTHERS WITH COMPLAINTS ON THE TIE RODS WHERE IT'S BEEN MENTIONED THAT BOLTS WERE NOT FASTENED TIGHTLY CAUSING EARLY FAILURE. AGAIN, APPROXIMATELY 23200 MILES ON A CAR THAT IS BASICALLY DRIVEN TO THE STORE AND CHURCH WITHIN TOWN WITH OCCASIONAL EXPRESSWAY TRIPS OUT OF TOWN. SO, I'M SCARED SILLY THAT IF I DON'T GET THESE FIXED, I'LL KILL ME, ANY OCCUPANTS AND ANYONE ELSE ON THE ROAD AT THE TIME IT DOES FAIL. I WAS TOLD THAT I SHOULD NOT DRIVE CAR WITHOUT BEING FIXED. AND, CHRYSLER DOESN'T THINK THERE'S AN ISSUE HERE? THIS WILL COST ME NORTH OF $1100.00 TO FIX. *TR

WHILE DRIVING AT ABOUT 35MPH MY CAR BUCK AND ALMOST STALLED OUT. IT SEEMED LIKE IT LOST A LITTLE POWER AFTER THAT. WHEN I REACHED A STOP SIGN APPROXIMATELY 1/2 MILE DOWN THE ROAD AND ATTEMPTED TO ACCELERATE, I HAD NO POWER AND COULD NOT BREAK 10MPH. MY ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL INDICATOR LIGHT IS NOW FLASHING AND THE ESP/TCS LIGHT IS ON STEADY. THE ONLY ERROR CODE I AM GETTING IS FOR THE #1 O2 SEOR BECAUSE I DAMAGED IT TAKING IT OUT TO ELIMINATE A CLOGGED CADTILAC CONVERTER. AT TIMES IT TAKES 3 SECONDS FOR MY CAR TO EVEN ATTEMPT TO START (MEANING NOTHING IS HAPPENING). IT HAS A ROUGHER IDLE THEN IT USED TO HAVE. *TR

MY 2007 JEEP COMPASS HAD BEEN MAKING CLUNKING AND SQUEAKING NOISES WHEN DRIVING OVER SMALL BUMPS AT LOW SPEEDS. THERE WAS ALSO A LOUD GRINDING NOISE WHEN TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL TO EITHER SIDE, ALSO HAPPENING AT LOW SPEEDS. I TOOK MY VEHICLE TO A MECHANIC WHO STATED I NEEDED TO REPLACE BOTH LOWER CONTROL ARMS AND BALL JOINT ASSEMBLIES AND BOTH OUTER TIE RODS ENDS. IT WAS ALSO STATED I NEEDED A NEW RIGHT STRUT. I WAS ADVISED THAT MY VEHICLE WAS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE AND I WAS MADE TO SIGN A PAPER STATING THEY HAD TOLD ME THIS. AT LESS THAN 42,000 MILES THESE ARE PARTS THAT SHOULD NOT BE MALFUNCTIONING AND EVEN MORE IMPORTANTLY NOT ENDANGERING MY LIFE. *TR