2016 Hyundai Elantra

While driving on the freeway at normal highway speed, the vehicle experienced a sudden and catastrophic engine failure. The engine immediately lost power, and the vehicle shut down within seconds. There was no prior warning or opportunity to take corrective action. The vehicle became completely disabled and could not be driven. This occurred late at night with limited traffic, and I was LUCKY to be near a freeway exit. I was able to coast toward the exit, but the engine seized fully, resulting in total loss of propulsion and blocking the freeway exit ramp. Law enforcement had to assist due to the disabled vehicle creating a traffic obstruction and safety hazard. A tow truck was required to remove the vehicle because it could not be restarted or moved. Under normal traffic conditions, this sudden loss of engine power at freeway speed could have resulted in a SERIOUS, potentially FATAL COLLISION. The outcome depended on luck, timing, and location rather than any safety system functioning as intended. The engine was later diagnosed by an authorized Hyundai dealership as seized due to internal failure. Hyundai denied warranty coverage because a software safety campaign had not been completed prior to the failure, even though the failure occurred suddenly and without warning, leaving no opportunity to complete the campaign. However, at the time of the failure, the NHTSA recall lookup tool showed ZERO unrepaired recalls associated with this vehicle’s VIN. The campaign referenced by Hyundai is intended only to detect certain engine conditions and does not repair engine defects. In this case, the engine failed before any detection or warning could occur. The vehicle had just been refueled and was equipped with four brand-new tires, confirming it was being operated normally. This incident involved an unexpected and complete loss of engine power at freeway speed due to an apparent engine defect, presenting a SERIOUS SAFETY RISK to the driver and other motorists.

Engine turns off unexpectedly when driving. all power steering and brakes stop working when engine itself off. entire engine, drive train, and vehicle shakes while driving. Transmission is a replacement as first one failed after 90 days of purchase. paid labor for replacement and waited over 6 weeks without a vehicle. Now replaced oem transmission slips out of gear. making vehicle difficult to drive as the transmission and engine sputter and make ride jerky. car has turned off on the freeway in traffic 3 times. almost causing an accident each time. car has been robbed at least 5 separate times. stealing items within the vehicle. car was locked and next day it is unlocked and my stuff all gone. i am scared to drive the vehicle. i believe it is a lemon.

On [XXX] I was struck by a OVI driver at 50mph the side airbags deployed however the front airbag never deployed. The vehicle was totaled out my insurance company. The vehicle had no record or open recalls for the airbag and had been given a multiple point inspection in November 2024 with no issues noted. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

The contact owns a 2016 Hyundai Elantra. The contact stated that while her daughter attempted to adjust the front driver's side seat while the vehicle was turned off, the front Driver-side air bag had independently deployed. No warning light illuminated. In addition, the contact's daughter's left arm was injured on impact with the air bag. Medical attention was sought, and further medical diagnosis will be scheduled. The local dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 160,000.

Vehicle started to violently lurch when shifted into drive. A week later loud clunking sound also started when shifting into drive. Sometimes would not go into drive and had to use manual 1st, 2nd, etc. Reverse was fine, no issues. No dash lights ever came on. Auto parts store had error code P0722. Have a diagnostic appt in a week at local Hyundai dealer. We may attempt to replace input/output speed sensor to solve, but probably will let dealership do diag first. Mileage approx 84686. Very dangerous at stop lights if can not get car into drive. Crash risk is high.

I own a 2016 Hyundai Elantra, and the engine makes a noticeable knocking or “tapping” noise when started cold. The sound resembles piston slap and usually lessens as the engine warms up, but it’s been gradually getting louder over time. It’s most noticeable for the first few minutes after startup, especially in cooler weather. I’m concerned this may indicate premature piston or cylinder wear. I’ve found many other 2016 Elantra owners reporting the same problem online, suggesting it may be a design or manufacturing issue. The vehicle has been properly maintained with the correct oil grade and regular service, so this shouldn’t be happening at this mileage. This could eventually lead to engine failure or costly repairs if the piston or cylinder surfaces deteriorate further. I’m reporting this so NHTSA can track the issue and determine if it poses a broader reliability or safety concern.

The trunk latch was recalled. I supposedly got it fixed in July 2024. It was functioning at the time it was supposedly fixed. It Does say it’s a safety issue.Now it is not working, exactly the symptoms of the recall, not open from the inside. There isn’t a key hole to open it. My belongings are inside, and if I get a flat, there is no way of opening the trunk. I’ve called their corporate office. They want to charge me a diagnostic fee, of $200.00 to check the recall. Isn’t it their legal obligation to check if the recall has taken affect?

My fuel pump comes up and my check engine light saying that it needs to be replaced when I fill up my car it automatically resets my mileage for AAA and trippy and it will tell me that I have no gas even though I just filled up or it will say I’m full when I know I’m empty so it’s not reliable. It comes and goes. And then for an electrical issue my Car will randomly stop working and then like come back up and it was underneath the positive plug. there is a clip that someone had to extend because it was too short and causing electrical surges so it’s still a problem if I go over a bump it gets loose so that clip under the positive terminal I believe is loose and makes my car shut off in the middle of driving at once and then it came right back on