2005 Ford Mustang Gt

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 FORD MUSTANG GT. SINCE NOVEMBER OF 2008, THE INSTRUMENT PANEL HAS FAILED TO WORK PROPERLY. THERE WERE NO PRIOR ISSUES WITH THE VEHICLE. THE RPM, FUEL, AND SPEEDOMETER DIALS DISPLAY INACCURATE READINGS. THE CONTACT FEELS THAT THESE FAILURES ARE DUE TO A MANUFACTURER DEFECT. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 19,762.

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2005 FORD MUSTANG GT. WHILE DRIVING BETWEEN 35-45 MPH IN LIGHT RAIN, THE ENTIRE INSTRUMENT PANEL AND EXTERIOR LIGHTING FAILED WITHOUT WARNING. IN ADDITION, THE FRONT DRIVER'S AND PASSENGER SIDE FLOOR AREAS ACCUMULATED AN EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF WATER LEAKAGE. WATER ENTERED INTO THE FUSE PANEL. THE CONTACT PULLED THE VEHICLE OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, WHERE IT WAS TOWED TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT THE FAILURE WAS CONTRIBUTED TO A CRACKED BODY TORQUE SEAM. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED AT THE COST OF $900; HOWEVER, THE REPAIR WAS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. THE REPAIRS CONSISTED OF REPLACING THE SMART FUSE BOX, SEALS, AND MICRO CIRCUITS. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 42,000 AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 45,092.

I RECENTLY PURCHASED A 2005 MODEL MUSTANG GT FROM JIM SKINNER HONDA IN DOTHAN ALABAMA. THE VEHICLE HAS A SIGNIFICANT WATER LEAK INTO THE PASSENGER FLOORBOARD AND INTO THE SMART JUNCTION BOX AREA. THE WATER PENETRATES INTO THE WIRING HARNESSES AND BOX ITSELF. BEING THAT MOST OPERATIONS ON THIS VEHICLE ARE ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED IT IS MY OPINION (MECHANIC) THAT WATER INTRUSION INTO THIS AREA COULD CAUSE AN ENGINE FAILURE AND HAS CAUSED LIGHTING MALFUNCTIONS ON THE TAILLIGHTS OF THE VEHICLE. WHEN RAINING THE VEHICLE TYPICALLY EXPERIENCES ELECTRICAL GHOSTS OF VARIOUS SORTS. ALSO THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT START DURING SOME HEAVY WATER INTRUSION INSTANTS. BUT GIVEN TIME THIS PROBLEM CAN AND WILL LEAD TO A FIRE OR A ELECTRICAL MALFUNCTION CAUSING A CRASH AND/OR DEATH. *TR

MY INSTRUMENT CLUSTER FAILED DUE TO THE WIRING IN THE DASHBOARD FROM THE FACTORY WAS CHAFING ON EACH OTHER AND SHORTED OUT. I FIRST THOUGHT IT WAS JUST A FUSE BUT THEY KEPT BLOWING. SO I BROUGHT IT TO ONE DEALER THEY SAID THE CLUSTER NEEDED REPLACEMENT DUE TO A SHORT IN IT AND WOULD COST $600.00 BECAUSE MY WARRANTY RAN OUT IN NOV. 2007 BUT THE CAR ONLY HAS 28K ON IT, IT'S A PLEASURE CAR. I CALLED FORD CARE AND THEY SAID SINCE I HAVE NO SERVICE RECORD WITH THEM THERE WAS NOTHING THEY COULD DO FOR ME. I BROUGHT THE CAR NEXT TO MY LOCAL MECHANIC AND HE ORDERED A NEW CLUSTER THROUGH FORD AND BROUGHT IT TO A SEPARATE DEALER WHERE THEY FOUND THE WIRING PROBLEM AND ALSO REPLACED THE CLUSTER COSTING ME $591.00 PLUS THE COST OF THE DIAGNOSIS FROM THE FIRST DEALER OF $177.00. I FEEL FORD SHOULD STILL PAY FOR THESE REPAIRS DUE TO THE FACT IT CAME FROM THE FACTORY LIKE THIS. *TR

SERIOUS LEAKING ISSUES ON NEW FORDS MODEL 05 THROUGH 08. MY BRAND NEW CAR HAD LEAKING UNDER THE FLOORBOARD WHICH CAUSED BLACK MOLD AND OTHER MOLD TO GROW CAUSING HEALTH AND OTHER PROBLEMS. IT HAS ALSO CAUSED ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS IN OTHER FORDS. BRAKE LIGHTS MALFUNCTIONING, POSSIBLE AIR BAG MALFUNCTIONS. FORD KNOWS OF THE ISSUE AND IS NOT HAVING A RE-CALL. *TR

WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR FAILURE. FIRST OCCURRENCE WAS SEPT 20 2007 WAS TOLD THE WIRING HAD SOME CORROSION ON IT AND WAS REPLACED. MARCH 27 2008 I EXPERIENCED A STUCK ACCELERATOR (ANOTHER COMPLAINT FILED) WHILE GETTING ON THE FREEWAY AND CAR WAS TOWED TO DEALER, NO WIPERS OR RADIO AFTER THE ACCELERATOR PROBLEM. DEALER CALLS TO SAY THAT THE WIRING HAD CORROSION ON IT AGAIN. I'VE HAD 3 BATTERIES IN IT DUE TO A LEAKING WINDSHIELD THAT LEAKED ONTO THE FUSE BOX AND WAS SHORTING EVERYTHING OUT. REAR DEFROSTER REPAIRED IN APRIL 2007 ITS NOT WORKING PROPERLY AGAIN ONLY CLEARS PART OF THE WINDOW. THE CAR WAS BOUGHT NEW IN 2005 AND HAS 6485 MILES ON IT. THE DEALER GETS TO SEE THE CAR ALMOST EVERYTIME I DRIVE IT. THIS IS GETTING RIDICULOUS. *TR

NEW CAR , FAILED TO START NUMEROUS TIMES, DO NOT DRIVE CAR EVERY DAY AS I COMMUTE, ONLY DRIVE ON WEEKENDS. TRY TO START CAR AFTER 1 1/2 WEEKS AND HAD TO JUMP START IT . CALLED DEALER AND THEY SAID THAT BECAUSE IT HAS COMPUTER IT WILL BE CONSTANTLY RUNNING AND THAT IS WHY IT DID NOT START. SO AFTER A FEW MORE TIMES NOT STARTING I GOT A DIE HARD BATTERY, CAR HAS FAILED TO START AT LEAST MORE THAN 3 TIMES SINCE. I HARDLY DRIVE THIS CAR, PURCHASED IN 12/04 AND IT ONLY HAS APPROX. 8000 MILES. I SHOULD NOT HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT MY CAR NOT STARTING AFTER A FEW DAYS OF NOT DRIVING. IT HAS ONLY BEEN 5 DAYS SINCE I LAST DROVE AND I HAVE TO JUMP IT AGAIN. I AM AFRAID TO GO ANYWHERE WITH IT. IF I GO AWAY ON VACATION FOR 2WKS , I HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT COMING HOME TO A CAR THAT WILL NOT START. I AM TAKING TO DEALER TO SEE WHAT CAN BE DONE. *TR

DT*: THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 3 MPH AT NIGHT IN THE RAIN, THE ENTIRE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FAILED, EXCEPT FOR THE CENTER BRAKE LIGHT. ALL THE LIGHTS, THE RADIO , THE OUTLETS, AND THE ELECTRIC WINDOWS FAILED SIMULTANEOUSLY. THIS WAS ACCOMPANIED BY ALL THE ENGINE WARNING LIGHTS ON THE DASHBOARD ILLUMINATING, AS WELL AS THE DIGITAL READOUT GIVING WARNING MESSAGES. THE CONTACT DEPRESSED THE BRAKE, AND EVERYTHING WORKED AGAIN. THE BATTERY WAS DISCONNECTED BRIEFLY, WHICH MADE EVERYTHING FUNCTION INTERMITTENTLY UPON RECONNECTING IT. THE BATTERY WAS DISCONNECTED A SECOND TIME FOR A FEW HOURS, WHICH FIXED THE PROBLEM. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT SEEN BY A DEALER.