2015 Chrysler 200

The contact owns a 2015 Chrysler 200. The contact stated while driving 65 mph, there were several unknown warning lights illuminated. The contact stated while exiting the highway, the vehicle started to stall and ceased. The vehicle was not drivable. The contact towed the vehicle to an independent mechanic and was informed that the transmission fluid needed to be flushed. The vehicle was serviced. The contact stated a month later the failure recurred. The contact had the vehicle towed to his residence. The contact called and notified the local dealer of the failure. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. Upon investigation, the contact associated the failure with NHTSA Campaign Number: 16V529000 (Power Train) however, the VIN was not included. The manufacturer was informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 94,000.

Chrysler 200 (2015) engine shuts down with no notice. I have to literally stop, put the car in park and restart the ignition in the middle of the road to get the car moving again. Mostly when deacceleration (turning a corner/slowing down for a traffic stop, going over a bump, etc.). The electrical system just shuts off. Notice that the temperature outside is usually warm. Seems to do better in cooler weather. The car does not get hot (temperature gauge has been tested). Oil is full and gets regular changes. It is Extremely Dangerous. Many times throughout this month I have almost been hit. Angry people cuss you out for stopping in the middle of traffic. Not only does it cause me high anxiety but the safety of myself and my grandchild is at risk. I am afraid to drive it but have no other means of transportation. Message displays: Put gear in park, restart engine. No engine light comes on so the mechanics are unable to diagnosis issue. It has been put on the code reader but not codes appear. Midas said it was the Power Distribution Center Electrical Connector (R24) . That they couldn't fix it but that it should be under warranty but it wasn't for my VIN # . Prior ( a week or so before) the airbag alert illuminated on the dash (2 different times) but went off after I adjusted my seat. At one time after I started having problems my low light beam indicator said my bulb was out but then went off and my low light still worked (not burnt out). Now my control in the middle of my dash work.

The car displays several symptoms of other recalls on the exact same model. It has high vibration when sitting idle and while driving, the car also has issues in shifting gears on it's own, either while trying to decrease speed, or increase speed. As if it is stuck in gear. The car is an automatic. On top of this, when taking off, the car jerks and stalls in power, instead of going forward as it should, making pulling out incredibly dangerous. Again, these are all symptoms of recalls that have been made on these exact models of cars. I tried contacting the dealership, but they said if my VIN doesn't have the recall listed there is nothing that can be done. I think this is insane. The vibration has been noted in recalls to wear away parts of the tire axel, which leads to breaking of important components that move the wheels and can be dangerous if they were to break while the car was moving.

Since purchasing my car, I’ve experienced at least 9 instances of the vehicle completely cutting off, while driving. I have one of these incidents on video. The car will cut off, tell me to “Shift to Park and hit the Start button” while in traffic, posing severe danger to myself and other drivers. There are recalls describing this exact problem, yet my VIN number is not included in the recall. Most recently, my vehicle stalled/cut off immediately after getting an oil change. Once restarted, began running rough, shaking, and would not accelerate. I took it to a mechanic who said the problems all seemed the same as the recalled vehicles and all subsequent problems stemmed from the main power train issue. I was advised to take it to the dealer, which I did, and the dealership is trying to charge me $3,705 to fix a commonly known and previously recalled issue with this year/make/model vehicle. I’ve contacted FCA and they cannot give me any answers, explanation, or assistance.

While driving, my car will accelerate when depressing the brake. If cruise control is set to say 60 mph, the car will continue to accelerate well after the desired speed has been reached. When pressing the brake to disengage cruise control, the car will still try to accelerate for about 10 seconds, even while depressing the brake. I'm not sure if that is related to this, or if it is a separate issue, but my car will also stall out when coming to a stop or slowing down, especially if braking hard. When the engine stalls, power steering and braking are also lost. My car has stalled several times in the middle of intersections, on a busy highway coming to a red light or slowing down because of a hazard in front of me, and at stop signs. I also check my oil regularly, and do routine oil changes. When I check the oil, and when I have my oil changed, the oil level is almost ALWAYS low, and has even been completely empty a couple times. I've confirmed that there is no leaking under the car. Sometimes I smell burnt oil coming from my car. I fill the oil up, and less than a month, and the oil is almost gone. More worrisome to me, is the fact that even though the oil was completely empty, my oil light never came on. So it was by luck that I checked the oil and noticed that it was empty because I wouldn't have otherwise known. My check engine light will come on from time to time, and I have it checked for the codes each time. The following are the codes that have shown up every single time: P2172; U1424; P106A

I HAVE A 2015 CHRYSLER 200. AFTER THE CAR SITS FOR A FEW HOURS AN ENGINE HAS TIME TO COOL COMPLETELY DOWN IT SHUTS OFF ON ITS OWN AFTER RESTART AND ACCELERATION. IF I START TO SLOW DOWN IT WILL SHUT COMPLETELY OFF AND TELL ME TO PUT INTO PARK. IT HAS DONE IT COUNTLESS TIMES ON BUSY ROADWAYS, WHEN I’M COMING TO A STOP AT STOP SIGNS OR TRAFFIC LIGHTS. IT IS STARTING TO ALSO SHUT OFF AS I AM TURNING. NOT ONLY IS IT EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND COMPLETELY UNSAFE BUT IT’S EXTREMELY ANNOYING. IT SEEMS TO DO IT MORE IF THE ENGINE HASN’T COMPLETELY “WARMED UP” BEFORE I DRIVE IT. THEY HAVE RECALLS FOR THIS EXACT PROBLEM ON CERTAIN CHRYSLER 200S BUT APPARENTLY MINE DOESN’T FALL UNDER THAT RECALL AND SEEMS RIDICULOUS THAT IT DOESN’T. SEEMS AS THOUGH TENS OF THOUSANDS OF THE 200S ARE HAVING THIS SAME ISSUE BUT THEY PICK AND CHOOSE WHAT ONES ARE FIXED. IS CHRYSLER WAITING FOR FAMILIES TO DIE IN CAR ACCIDENTS BEFORE THEY FINALLY FIX THE PROBLEM!?

IMY CAR WILL NOT SHIFT OUT OF THE FIRST GEAR JUST OUT OF NO WHERE WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY, HAD TO HAVE IT TOWED AND SHOP IS SAYING TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE IS BAD AND I SEE MANY REVIEWS THAT THIS HAPPENS WITH THIS CAR AROUND 90000 THE SHOP IS ALSO SAY THEY SEE THIS PROBLEM A LOT I DON'T UNDERSTAND WHY THERE IS NOT A RECALL

I PURCHASED MY 2015 CHRYSLER C IN 2017. I STARTED HAVING ISSUES WITH THE TRANSMISSION JUMPING EVERY NOW AND THEN. MY CAR IS AT 60K MILES NOW AND I HAVE A SENSOR LIGHT ON TELLING ME SERVICE AWD. I TOOK IT TO HAVE IT DECIDED AND THE READING I GOT BACK WAS P1634 AND P1634 00. THE POWER TRAIN ISSUE HAS BEEN FIXED BEFORE I OWNED IT AND NOW FROM THE SOUNDS OF IT, MAY BE GOING BAD AGAIN. I SMELL A BURNING SMELL FROM TIME TO TIME WHEN DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY. I'M TRYING TO TAKE MY CAR IN TO GET SERVICED BUT EVERYONE'S TELLING ME NO OPEN RECALL. HOWEVER I KEEP READING ABOUT RECALLS ON CHRYSLER 200 POWER TRANNY. I HAVE LOST SO MUCH MONEY ON THIS CAR IT'S RIDICULOUS! MY DAUGHTER IS A NEW D