1998 Chevrolet Suburban

1998 CHEVY TAHOE WONT START, SPONTANEOUSLY. IT WILL TURN OVER, BUT WONT START. FIRST TIME IT HAPPENED WASN'T SURE WHAT WAS WRONG, TRIED IT AGAIN AFTER 10-15 MINUTES AND IT STARTED. I FIGURED IT WAS JUST COLD. SECOND TIME IT HAPPENED, IT WAS ABOUT 45 MINUTES BEFORE IT STARTED, AND I WAS TOLD BY THE GUY AT THE TIRE DEALER, THAT HIS AND A FRIENDS TAHOE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM, I SHOULD TAKE IT TO THE DEALER. I DID THIS AND WAS TOLD IT WAS THE THEFT DETERRENT MODULE. AFTER SEVERAL HUNDRED DOLLARS AND A RENTAL CAR FOR A WEEK I GOT THE TRUCK BACK. IT WAS ABOUT 2 MONTHS LATER, IT HAPPENED AGAIN. SAME THING, COUPLE HUNDRED DOLLARS, A RENTAL CAR FOR A WEEK AND I GOT IT BACK AFTER 3 DAYS. 3 DAYS LATER, THE SAME THING. I DO NOT HAVE MY TRUCK NOW, I HAVE A RENTAL AGAIN. I WAS TOLD I WOULD HAVE TO PAY FOR THIS AGAIN, BECAUSE IT IS A "....TOTALLY DIFFERENT SET OF CODES THAN READ THE FIRST COUPLE OF TIMES..." *JB

PROBLEM WITH ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ON CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 1998 MODEL. VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED IN SEPTEMBER 1997 BUT IS A 1998 MODEL. PROBLEMS ARE AS FOLLOWS: . CHEVROLET HAS A RECALL FOR 1997 MODEL FOR WINDSHIELD WIPER MALFUNCTION I HAVE A 1998 MODEL WITH THE SAME PROBLEM BUT THE RECALL DOES NOT COVER IT. 2. I ALSO HAVE PROBLEM WITH THE REMOTE CONTROL. VEHICLE HAS SOME SORT OF WIRING PROBLEM, I CHANGED THE BATTERIES ON THE REMOTE CONTROL BUT IT WILL NOT WORK. 3. I HAD TO CHANGE WIRING HARNESS FOR REAR LIGHTS SINCE THE LIGHTS WOULD NOT WORK AND DEALERSHIP SAID THAT I HAD TO CHANGE THE WIRING.*AK

WHILE DRIVING CONSUMER SMELLED SOMETHING BURNING, STOPPED AND SAW YELLOW SMOKE COMING FROM BEHIND DRIVER'S DOOR PANEL, SPARKS WERE FLYING. SMOKE STOPPED, FUSE HAD BLOWN. MECHANIC FOUND THAT WIRE TO OUTSIDE MIRROR SWITCH. *AK AFTER FURTHER INVESTIGATION, IT WAS FOUND THAT THE WIRE WAS 14 GAUGE. THE ELECTRICAL SHORT OCCURED AT THE MIRROR SWITCH. *YH

WIRES KEEP GETTING CUT BY THE CAR HARNESS, WHY ARE THE WIRES LOCATED IN THE HARNESS? THIS IS GETTING DANGEROUS DRIVING WITHOUT BRAKE LIGHTS IS A HAZARD. THE FUEL LINE / PUMP HAS NEVER WORKED CORRECTLY, AND WHO EVER HEARD OF A TRANSMISSION GOING OUT AT 50,000 MILES. PLEASE NOTE I HAVE NEVER TOWED ANYTHING WITH THIS CAR AND I AM A VERY CAREFUL FEMALE DRIVER WITHOUT ANY ACCIDENTS OR SPEEDING TICKETS, OIL IS CHANGED EVERY 3,000 MILES, ALL HIGHWAY DRIVING. PLEASE HELP! THIS CAR IS A DISASTER AND A HAZARD. THE LEAKING FUEL LINE COULD HAVE KILLED ME, NO BRAKE LIGHTS...OBVIOUS ISSUE. THANK YOU! LIZ ZIMMER.

THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN EXPERIENCING SEVERAL SUSPENSION RELATED PROBLEMS, THE SIDE SHOCK ABSORBER SPLIT CAUSING A RATTLE, THE DEALER REPLACED THE BOLTS ON BOTH THE DRIVER AND PASSENGER SIDES, CONSUMER COMPLAINED OF STEERING WHEEL PULLING TO THE RIGHT, THE DEALER FOUND THAT THE VEHICLE WAS OUT OF ALIGNMENT AND AFTER THE ALIGNMENT WAS COMPLETED, THE PROBLEM STILL EXISTED, THE DEALER LATER FOUND A LEFT FRONT INNER TIE ROD NUT LOOSE, HOWEVER THE VEHICLE STILL PULLED TO THE RIGHT SO A TIRE ROTATION WAS DONE, ALSO, THE COIL SPRING INSULATORS WERE MISSING CAUSING A CLUNKING NOISE WHEN TURNING, IT WAS LATER FOUND THAT THE INSULATORS WERE IMPROPERLY INSTALLED, THE VEHICLE CONTINUES TO PULL TO THE RIGHT AFTER ALL THE REPAIRS AND THE DEALER CAN NOT FIND A REMEDY FOR THE PROBLEM. *SLC