2014 Chevrolet Captiva

The contact owns a 2014 Chevrolet Captiva. The contact stated while attempting to shut-off the vehicle, the key ceased in the accessory position. The contact stated that there was no warning light illuminated. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 43,000.

THE CAPTIVA SUDDENLY SHUTS DOWN RANDOMLY FOR ABSOLUTELY NO REASON. THE ISSUE WAS DIRECTED TO BE REPAIRED IN THE OTHER CHEVY VEHICLES BECAUSE THEY ISSUED A SERVICE BULLETIN HOWEVER THE CAPTIVA IS A FLEET VEHICLE WHICH MEANS THEY DIDN'T FIX THE KNOWN ISSUE OF PUTTING A FORD BATTERY SENSOR ON A CHEVY VEHICLE BECAUSE FLEET VEHICLES ARE RARELY SERVICED BY A DEALERSHIP. THIS IS DANGEROUS AND SOMEONE IS GOING TO DIE IF THEY HAVEN'T ALREADY. THIS HAPPENED TO ME LOSING ALL POWER AND COMPLETELY SHUTTING DOWN GOING 65 MPH ON THE FREEWAY WITH MY CHILDREN IN THE CAR WITH ME. I'VE NOT DRIVEN THIS CAR SINCE AUGUST BECAUSE I DON'T WANT TO DIE AND I STILL OWE ABOUT 4 YEARS OF PAYMENTS ON THIS LEMON.

ELECTRICAL POWER TO THE VEHICLE CUTS OUT RANDOMLY, CAUSING THE ENGINE TO SHUT DOWN IF DRIVING AND LOSING POWER STEERING CONTROL AND POWER BRAKES OR THE POWER PARKING BRAKE RANDOMLY ENGAGES, CREATING THE POTENTIAL FOR A DRIVING HAZARD. POWER ALSO CUTS OUT RANDOMLY WHICH CAUSES THE VEHICLE NOT TO START. DRIVER HAS TO OPEN THE HOOD AND MANUALLY MOVE THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE CONNECTED TO THE BATTERY, SOMETIMES MULTIPLE TIMES, IN ORDER FOR POWER TO BE RESTORED. THIS MANUAL MOVE PUTS THE PERSON IN IMMEDIATE DANGER OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK SHOULD ANYTHING CREATE A POWER ARC WHILE PERFORMING THIS MANEUVER. GM SERVICE BULLETIN #13186 DATED JUNE 2013 ADDRESSES THIS ISSUE WITH A DEFECT IN THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE, BUT LIMITS IT ONLY TO THE WARRANTY PERIOD ONLY OF THE NEW VEHICLE AND NOT THE VEHICLE AS A WHOLE, YET NO RECALL HAS EVER BEEN ISSUED. BASED ON COMMENTS POSTED ON THE CHEVY FORUM, THIS PROBLEM IS CONSISTENT AND WIDESPREAD ACROSS THE CHEVY CAPTIVA VEHICLES. IT IS ONLY A MATTER OF TIME WHEN ONE OF THESE RANDOM POWER SHUTDOWNS LEADS TO A SERIOUS ACCIDENT OR DEATH. AT THE PRESENT TIME WE ARE FORCED TO REPLACE BOTH THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLES AT A COST OF $590.

I HAVE A 2014 C. CAPTIVA AT 79K MILES, ONE SUNDAY ON MY WAY TO CHURCH, DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY, I HEARD A POP AND THE CAR SHIFTED RIGHT AND SLOWED DOWN, I GET TO CHURCH AND THE SERPENTINE BELT CAME OFF, PUMP WAS LEAKING OIL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM SHUT DOWN. OVER $1200 IN REPAIR COST. A FEW MONTHS LATER P0430 ERROR CODE - CATALYTIC CONVERTER REPLACED, NEW BRAKES FRONT AND BACK. CAR HAS NOT BEEN RIGHT SINCE. PAST 4 MONTHS TRACTION CONTROL ISSUES. IF I HOLD MY FOOT ON BRAKE AT STOP SIGN, ALARM GOES OFF DASHBOARD LIGHTS UP: TRACTION CONTROL, ENGINE LIGHT AND STABILITRAK. THREE DIFFERENT MECHANICS LOOKED AT MY VEHICLE TO NO AVAIL. I TOOK IT TO MY CHEVY DEALER AND YESTERDAY WAS ADVISED MY CAR IS FINE DRIVE IT FOR 150 MILES. I GO OUT THIS MORNING AT 5:00 AM AND WHILE AT TRAFFIC LIGHT, (1.5 MILES) ALL LIGHTS BACK ON. WHATEVER THE ISSUE, CHEVY NEEDS TO THOROUGHLY CHECK TO SEE WHAT'S CAUSING THE ISSUE, THE WEATHER IS CHANGING. I'M JUST OVER 80K MILES AND I BELIEVE MY CAR HAS BEEN THROUGH THE EXTREME AND HAS YET TO BE BROKEN IN. ALL THESE OCCURENCES HAPPEND WITHIN 12 MONTHS. I LOVE THIS CAR AND HOPEFULLY CHEVY CAN GET TO THE ROOT OF MY ISSUES AS THEY ARE DIRECTLY RELATED TO THE ENGINE. 79K MILES MY CAR WENT TO A CHEVY DEALER WITH COMPLAINTS OF ENGINE . 80,547 MILES BACK IN FOR ENGINE REPAIRS. DIAGNOSIS 15 LOSS OF COMMUNICATION CODES AND LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE ATTEMPTING TO START THE VEHICLE, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START. THE CONTACT STATED THAT IN ORDER FOR THE VEHICLE TO BE STARTED, HE WOULD MOVE THE SEAT BACKWARD AND FORWARD BY TOUCHING THE ELECTRIC SEAT SWITCH THEN THE VEHICLE WOULD START. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE WAS DEFECTIVE AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE TECHNICIAN REFERRED THE CONTACT TO A CHEVROLET DEALER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER AND WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 62,000.

FREQUENTLY CAR WILL NOT START EVEN WITH GOOD BATTERY AND CABLE CONNECTIONS. WHILE DRIVING CAR WILL LOSE POWER. THE 3 GAUGES(RPM, SPEEDOMETER, AND GAS) ALL STOP AND WORKING. THE CAR WILL STILL RUN BUT AT A MUCH LESS POWER. SOMETIMES THEY START WORKING BUT RPMS WILL RUN VERY HIGH AND SPEED IS GREATLY DECREASED. MESSAGE COMES ACROSS TO SERVICE STABILITRAK AND TRACTION CONTROL. WARNING LIGHTS COME ON SUCH AS ABS, TCS WARNING,STABILITRAK INDICATOR, AND PARKING BRAKE WARNING. DOORS LOCK AND UNLOCK REPEATEDLY. AT TIMES HAVE BEEN ABLE TO RESET BY UNHOOKING BATTERY CABLE AND RECONNECTING AND WAITING. NO PATTERN AS TO WHEN AND WHY IT HAPPENS. MAJOR SAFETY CONCERN. HAVE EVEN REPLACED UNDER-HOOD FUSE BOX. OH AND KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION. WHILE I WILL PUT A DATE, KNOW THAT THIS IS HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES OVER THE LAST YEAR. USUALLY TWO TIMES A WEEK SOMETIMES MORE

IN JANUARY 2020 I TOOK THE CAR INTO THE SHOP AFTER HEARING NOISE FROM THE ENGINE. I HAD TO HAVE THE TIMING CHAIN REPLACED, BUT AS THEY LOOKED IT OVER THEY SAID THE ENGINE NEEDED REPLACED, DUE TO OIL LEAKING. A COUPLE WEEKS BEFORE IT WAS VERY COLD CLOSE TO 4 DEGREES AND WHILE I WAS DRIVING INTO WORK AT 6AM I HEARD A LOUD SOUND WHILE AT A RED LIGHT, IT SOUNDED LIKE A GUN SHOT. I ASSUMED IT WAS COMING FROM A NEARBY NEIGHBORHOOD. BUT TO FIND OUT MY MECHANIC SAID THAT WAS THE ENGINE FROZEN AND POPPED. HE SAID WHEN ITS COLD THAT HAPPENS TO THIS ENGINE. UNREAL! TWO WEEKS AGO, MY CAR STARTED TO SMELL LIKE IT WAS BURNING AND GAS. SO I TOOK IT IN AND THEY REPLACED THE CAT CONVERTER,EXHAUST MANIFOLD, AND LEAKING SEAL. LAST WEEK, I WENT TO UNLOCK THE DOORS WITH THE REMOTE THE REAR WIPER FLUID MOTOR STARTED AND RAN CONTINUOUSLY, TO THE POINT IT DOESN'T WORK AT ALL NOW. NOW THIS WEEK MY TRUNK WILL NOT OPEN, BOTH FRONT HEAD LIGHTS BURNT OUT, MY TRACTION CONTROL KEEPS TURNING ON/OFF, MY SPEAKERS ARE POPPING, RADIO IS CUTTING IN/OUT. I BOUGHT THIS CAR FROM THE DEALER IN 2014 WITH 12K MILES ON IT, ALWAYS SERVICED THE VEHICLE, CHANGED THE OIL REGULARLY, INSPECTED YEARLY, PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE EVERY 6 MONTHS. NOW HAVE 83K MILES AND I NEED THIS CAR TO LAST ME TWO MORE YEARS. *TR

THE IGNITION SWITCH ON MY 2014 CHEVY CAPTIVA GETS STUCK AND IT DOES NOT ALLOW THE KEY TO BE REMOVED WHEN TURNING IT OFF WHEN STATIONARY. UPON PERSONAL RESEARCH IT WAS DISCOVERED THAT THIS MODEL HAS HAD THIS ISSUE WITH COUNTLESS DRIVERS (TYPICALLY AT 40K-50K MILES) AND IS NOT ADDRESSED BY GM AS A RECALL OR SAFETY ISSUE. HOWEVER, WHEN THE SWITCH IS UNABLE TO BE REMOVED IT IS A SENSORY ISSUE, THE VEHICLE KEY IS ALSO ABLE TO COME OUT WHILE ON DRIVE. A SIMPLE SEARCH 'CHEVY CAPTIVA KEY STUCK' WILL RESULT IN MANY SUCH INCIDENTS.