2013 Chevrolet Captiva

UNKNOWN, several times between my husband or myself while driving down the road and on the interstate, the vehicle would just completely shut off no lights, no brakes no nothing. We purchased the vehicle used so we thought that it had something to do with some minor maintenance but this first occurred only after having the vehicle for two weeks. We've taken the vehicle back to where we purchased it, they could not find any issues with the vehicle and taken it to other locations with no luck on solving issue. The vehicle does not give any signs or warning when it will shut down while drive. Here recently when using the turn signals, switching on high beams, or even turning on the radio causes the vehicle shut down.

BOUGHR THE SUV FROM DEALER WITH 63 K MILES. DID OIL CHANGES ON TIME AND MAINTENANCE. CAR ENGINE IS NLIWN AT 86K MILES. FIRST THE CAR STARTED TI IDKE RIUGH DURING STOPS. CMTOOK IN. THEY REPLACED CRANKSHAFT SENSORS. CLEANED THROTTLE.BODY. RAN OK FOR 2 MONTHS. THEN PROBLEM CAME BACK. HOWEVER THE NEXT DAY THE SUV WOULDN'T START. DID A CRANK NO START I CHANGED THE BATTERY, TRIED THE SPARK PLUGS, FUEL FILTER. STILL NO CRANK. THE MECHANIC WHO LOOKED AT IT FOUND THAT. THE TIMING CHAIN LOST TENSION.. BECAUSE A PLASTIC CLIP. WHICH HOLDS TWNSION ON THE TIMING CHAIN WAS MISSING..A PLASTIC PIECE.. CAUSED MY TIMING TO SHIFT WHERE IT MESSED UP THE ECM. THIS CAUSED THE PISTONS TO SHOOT WHEN THE VALVE WAS CLOSED. SO NOW A CAR I BOUGHT FOR 12K. AND PAID OFF.. ONLY TO PUT 20K MILES ON IT.. WILL COST ME 7K FOR A REFURBISHED ENGINE SWAP.

DURING THE LAST WEEK OF MAY 2019 RADIO TURNING ON/OFF INTERMITTENTLY - THOUGHT IT WAS ISSUE WITH RADIO STATION, BUT ON-LINE CHEVY FORUMS INDICATE IT IS A SIGN OF LARGER ELECTRICAL ISSUES. JUNE 1, 2019, ENTERING VEHICLE AFTER DINNER OUT, INTERIOR LIGHTS WERE FLICKERING; DRIVING AT HIGHWAY SPEED AT NIGHT WITH AC & CRUISE CONTROL ON THERE WAS A SUDDEN NOXIOUS ODOR IRRITATING TO EYES, NOSE, AND THROAT (2 PEOPLE ILL); HEADLIGHTS FLICKERING; OPENED WINDOWS TO VENTILATE; MADE IT HOME (~12 MILES); ALL LIGHTS - EXTERIOR AND INTERIOR - STILL FLICKERING UPON ARRIVAL HOME; STILL A STRONG NOXIOUS ODOR - STRONGER ON INTERIOR DRIVER SIDE OF VEHICLE; INTERNET SEARCH OF SYMPTOMS INDICATED DRIVER VISOR MIGHT BE EXTREMELY HOT - WENT OUT TO CHECK AND IT WAS VERY HOT - EVEN AFTER SITTING WHILE WE DID INTERNET SEARCH; FURTHER INTERNET SEARCH INDICATES MANY CHEVY CAPTIVA OWNERS COMPLAINING OF SIMILAR PROBLEMS; FORUMS INDICATE KNOWN BATTERY CABLES VOLTAGE DROP ISSUE LEADING TO EXPENSIVE REPAIRS (~$1000) NOT COVERED UNDER RECALL, SO WE DISCONNECTED BATTERY OVERNIGHT UNTIL WE COULD CHECK THINGS IN THE DAYLIGHT. 6/2/19 - AFTER LEAVING VEHICLE BATTERY DISCONNECTED OVERNIGHT, RECONNECTED AND DRIVER VISOR IMMEDIATELY GOT WARM TO TOUCH - CAR NOT EVEN CRANKED, JUST SITTING IN THE SHADY DRIVEWAY WITH THE BATTERY CONNECTED. SHIFTED VISOR DOWN AND THERE WAS A LOUD POP/CLICK NOISE. VISOR WOULD NOT FULLY RETURN TO STOWED POSITION. DISCONNECTED BATTERY AGAIN. NOT A SAFE SITUATION WITH OVERHEATING VISOR, NOXIOUS FUMES, AND FLUTTERING LIGHTS. CHEVY FORUMS INDICATE THIS HAS BEEN A KNOW ISSUE SINCE 2012, BUT DEALERSHIPS WILL ONLY ASSIST WHILE CAR IS STILL IN ORIGINAL PURCHASE WARRANTY PERIOD. FORUMS INDICATE THIS WAS A RECALL IN EUROPE/GREAT BRITAIN, BUT NOT HERE IN USA. RIDICULOUS. AN AMERICAN COMPANY NOT TAKING CARE OF ITS AMERICAN CUSTOMERS... FOR YEARS... MULTIPLE YEAR MODELS REPORTING SAME ISSUES.

I HAVE HAD THE 2013 CHEVY CAPTIVA SPORT FOR ALMOST 6 MONTHS. AFTER I HAVE BEEN DRIVING FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES AND STOP AT A RED LIGHT/STOP SIGN. IT EITHER SHUTS OFF OR BEGINS TO SHAKE FORWARD AND BACKWARD. IT DOES NOT MATTER IF I AM IN A LITTLE TOWN, HIGHWAY, INTERSTATE, ETC., IT DOES THE SAME THING. MY WIPER WARNING LIGHT AND SOUND ALONG WITH MY BATTERY LIGHT, AND RANDOM INDICATOR LIGHTS AND SOUNDS GO OFF RANDOMLY. THE ONLY ACCURATE LIGHTS ARE THE SEATBELT AND DOOR AJAR INDICATOR LIGHTS. WHEN THE HEATER OR AC IS ON THE VEHICLE SHAKES MORE. WHEN MY BATTERY LIGHT IS ON, I CANNOT TURN MY HIGH BEAMS ON. THE ECO SYSTEM DOES NOT WORK AT ALL. THE KEY GETS STUCK WHEN IT WANTS TOO. NO SPECIFIC TIME OF DAY OR TIME TRAVELED. THE STEERING WHEEL GETS STUCK RANDOMLY WHEN I MAKE A SHARP TURN. THE TURNING SIGNAL HAS ITS FREQUENT MOMENT WHEN IT WILL NOT TURN OFF. THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS ROAD HAZARD FOR OTHER DRIVERS. MOST OF THESE DEFECTS OCCUR TWICE A WEEK.

KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND THE BATTERY DIES COMPLETELY. I CANNOT LOCK OR UNLOCK MY CAR. HAZARDS WON'T TURN ON. ONLY HAPPENS OCCASIONALLY, BUT IT'S BEEN MORE FREQUENT AND LASTS LONGER. I USED TO BE ABLE JUST TO TURN THE CAR BACK ON TO GET THE KEY OUT, BUT NOW IT DOESN'T EVEN TRY TO TURN. IT'S LIKE THE BATTERY IS DEAD, BUT I GOT IT CHECKED AND IT'S FINE. IT HAPPENS AS I TURN THE CAR OFF OR ON. IT IS ALWAYS IN PARK.

VEHICLE STATIONARY IN PARK THE KEY WON'T COME OUT OF THE IGNITION. THE OTHER ISSUE IS THE DEFROST VENT HEAT SOMETIMES BLOWS COLD FOR A FEW HOURS. IT SEEMS TO GET STUCK ON DEFROST AND IT WON'T CLOSE THE DOOR OVER TO THE OTHER VENTS. IT SEEMS THAT IT COULD BE A PROGRAM ISSUE. THE SWITCHES SEEM TO WORK IT WILL HEAT UP. NOTICED IT DOES IT A LOT ON WINDY COLD NIGHTS THEN IN THE MORNING IT WON'T WORK FOR A FEW HOURS. PLEASE HELP! SAFETY ISSUES IF YOU CAN'T SEE OUTSIDE THE WINDOW WHEN BLOWING COLD AIR.

HORRIBLE STENCH IN MY CAR DUE TO A DEAD RAT IN MY CARS VENTILATION SYSTEM. I FOUND THE "ROOT CAUSE" AFTER APPROX. 2 WEEKS SINCE FIRST STENCH APPEARANCE. THE RAT WAS ALREADY DEAD AND THE PARTICLE FILTER WAS FULL OF DUNG, SO THAT ALL CAR PASSENGERS (OFTEN MY SON AND ALWAYS ME) DID BREATH THIS HARMFUL AND CONTAMINATED AIR (SEE HANTAVIRUS WHICH COULD BE INITIATED ALSO BY RAT DUNG). IM VERY WONDERING THAT THIS COULD HAPPEN AND WHY THIS HAS NOT BEEN PREVENTED OR HAS NOT BEEN FORESEEN (DESIGN FMEA) BY RESPONSIBLE ENGINEERING RESPONSIBLE. ANIMALS IN ENGINE COMPARTMENT ARE WELL KNOWN BUT I NEVER HEARD OF THEM IN VENTILATION SYSTEM!