2021 Chevrolet Blazer

"Driver Assisted Reduced Use Drive With Care Message" comes on when it is over 70 degrees outside. The temperature gage reads zero, A/C does not work, when the car is turned off the fan runs on high for an extended period of time. Showing code P0128 Used car purchase, came on 3 days after receiving vehicle from the dealership. Reset the code came on again 2.5 weeks later (5/3/2025) when the outside temperature was in the 70's

Vehicle is available upon request. 5/28/23 tires needed replaced, not even 30,000 miles on car. Customer was charged. 6/13/23 struts and mounts replaced at dealership 3/29/24-Revs high when barely touching pedal. Turned car off and it started back up on its own. Happens at least once a week. Dealership was unable to recreate. 4/1/24- wheel bearing replaced, customer was charged. April 2024 black metal showing through white paint. Paint was thin and fading. Dealership repainted the 2 doors that had paint issues. 12/20/24- Antifreeze level was at bottom of reservoir. Sloshing noise when driving. Was told air in hoses and will work it's way out. Was back at dealership 1/15/25, 1/24/25 & 2/5/25. Radiator fluid still dropping but even with dye test they can't figure out where it's going. Terrified it's going to effect the water pump and engine.

P0128, AC not working, Steering Assist Reduced, and Temp Gauge not working. Problem caused by faulty ECT wiring. First the problem is the ECT is a two wire (signal + and -) 26 gauge wire running through the ignition coil wire harness. Ignition coil signals are very high voltage and fairly fast frequency which causes a lot of EMI which is easily picked up on a 2 wire voltage based wire set. The ECT wiring should have been a twisted shielded pair if running next to Coil wiring or they could have used a single wire resistance thermistor, but they should have just routed the signal a different way to begin with. This is a design issue and it should be a recall...maybe a class action lawsuit is needed to force them to fix it correctly. The FSB (field service bulletin) fix blames loose connector terminals and it patches the computer software to not include ECT wire failures in the Steering, AC, and temp gauge inhibit logic (overtemp readings will still fail off these functions). Also the P0128 code can come back occasionally.

Receiving 3 different errors on dash display. 1) Action Required- No Remote Detected 2) Action Required- No Remote Detected Press Brake to Restart 3) No Remote Key Wa Detected Place Key In Transmitter Pocket Then Start Your Vehicle. All of these errors are intermittent and have appeared with using 2 different Remotes. Batteries have been replaced also. This in itself is not so much a safety hazard (annoying), but what is intermittently happening is the car shuts down while in drive and in reverse. So far it has not shut down on the freeway but has shut down while on City streets. We have taken it to 2 different GM Dealers a total of 7 times in the last 3 months(currently at the dealer now). Each time the dealer is saying they cannot duplicate the errors. We get it back and within 1 (usually the same day)day it is right back with the errors. Clearly these errors are a nuisance and dangerous if the vehicle shuts down. I have additional service documents and photos and videos but due to the maximum I can provide they are not uploaded.

When I am accelerating it seems like my car hesitates to get up to speed, at times feels like it is slipping to get traction. I put my car in AWD and didn't seem to notice the issue, when put back into 2WD, the issue happens, it is not an every time thing, but enough that my husband, who doesn't drive my car a lot noticed it and a coworker who has the same year as mine also has the issue. Of course when I took it into the dealership to have it looked at the car didn't do it, so as far as they are concerned there is nothing wrong with it, which is NOT the case. My husband has a 2020 Blazer and it doesn't have this issue. I understand that it is a different year, but if it has the same engine and transmission I would think there shouldn't be much of a difference in how they both drive. It's very frustrating to spend this much on a vehicle that I leased in May of 2020 and it has been in twice for this issue and the parking break issue (which GM's reasoning as to why this turns on by itself and does not turn off is BS, there is still an issue with this as well) and when serviced there is never anything wrong with it. So could it be an issue with the transmission, traction control or possibly the engine?