2011 Subaru Outback

WITH NO PASSENGER SEATED, THE SEAT BELT CHIME STARTED RINGING. TO TRY TO STOP IT, I LATCHED THE PASSENGER SEAT BELT. CHIMING CONTINUED. I NOTICE THE AIR BAG WARNING LIGHT WAS LIT. I DROVE THE CAR STRAIGHT TO MY SUBARU DEALER AND WAS TOLD THE PASSENGER SIDE AIR BAG SENSOR HAD FAILED. I WAS ALSO TOLD THE ONLY WAY TO FIX IT WAS TO REPLACE THE SEAT AT WELL OVER $1000. I WAS STILL LEFT WITH THE PROBLEM OF THE SEAT BELT CHIME. THE DEALERSHIP WOULDN'T DISABLE THE CHIME SO I SEARCHED THE INTERNET FOR A SOLUTION. WHAT I FOUND IS THAT THIS IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM WITH 2011 OUTBACKS. I DID ALSO FIND OUT HOW TO DISABLE THE SEAT BELT CHIME. BECAUSE THIS IS SUCH A COSTLY REPAIR AND A COMMON PROBLEM, I HAVE TO BELIEVE THERE ARE MANY SUBARU OWNERS DRIVING AROUND WITH UNPROTECTED PASSENGERS HAVING DISABLING THEIR SEAT BELT CHIMES AND HAVING NO AIR BAG PROTECTION. IN FAIRNESS TO SUBARU, I CONTACTED CUSTOMER SERVICE AND THEY OFFERED TO SPLIT THE COST OF THE REPAIR. IT WILL STILL COST ME $798 FOR WHAT SHOULD BE A SIMPLE REPAIR BUT BECAUSE OF POOR ENGINEERING, A REPLACEMENT SEAT. I WOULD APPRECIATE YOU LOOKING INTO THIS MATTER. *TR

I WAS ON VACATION DRIVING HOME. WAS AT ABOUT 300 MILES INTO A 400 MILE TRIP. DRIVING 68 MPH ON A DIVIDED HIGHWAY. TEMP APPROX. 85 DEGREES, SUNNY DAY. ATTEMPTED TO PASS A VEHICLE ON A HILL. ACCELERATED ABOUT MAX ACCELERATION AND VEHICLE COMPLETELY CUT OFF ALL POWER WHEN ACCELERATION ATTEMPT OCCURRED. I HAD TO PULL OVER IMMEDIATELY W/O ANY POWER. TRIED TO RE-START THE VEHICLE WITHOUT SUCCESS. CAR DID TURN OVER FOR ABOUT ONE SECOND THEN SHUT OFF COMPLETELY. RESULT WAS A NEED TO TOW THE VEHICLE TO A DEALER. VEHICLE SAT OVERNIGHT. WHEN THE DEALER TRIED TO START THE VEHICLE IT STARTED. AT THIS POINT I HAVE NOT HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH THIS SITUATION. BUT I HAVE NOT BEEN IN A SITUATION OF BEING ON A LONG TRIP, IN 85 DEGREE TEMP AND ATTEMPTING A HARD PASSING ACCELERATION ON A STEEP HILL. *TR

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

ON JUNE 30, 2011 AT 11PM I LOOKED OUT OF MY WINDOW AND OUR ENTIRE GARAGE WAS ENGULFED IN FLAMES. THIS BUILDING WAS NOT COMPLETED AND HAD NO ELECTRICAL OR HEATING SYSTEM. I BELIEVED AT THAT TIME THAT IT WAS THE CAR(SUBARU) THAT STARTED THE FIRE. ,AS THE INTENSITY OF THE FIRE WAS ON THE SIDE OF THE GARAGE WHERE IT WAS PARKED.I HAD JUST HAD IT DETAILED THE DAY BEFORE THE FIRE, AS THE DEALERSHIP HAD DONE SOME EXTRA ELECTRICAL WORK AND THE CAR WAS RETURNED TO US FILTHY. I HAD ALWAYS SUSPECTED THAT IT WAS THE SUBARU THAT STARTED THAT FIRE AND A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO I RECEIVED A LETTER FORM SUBARU STATING THAT THE "PUDDLE LIGHTS" WIRING COULD OVER HEAR AND START A FIRE. GUESS WHERE I HAD ELEC. WORK DONE?I HAD THE LIGHTED FLOOR BOARD LIGHTS INSTALLED (RIGHT ABOVE THE PUDDLE LIGHTS) THIS FIRE HAS LEFT MY HUSBAND(STILL) VERY DEPRESSED AS WE LOST ALL HIS TOOLS AND EVERYTHING IN THAT GARAGE WHICH INCLUDED ITEMS TO FINISH THE CONSTRUCTION AND MANY VALUABLE PERSONAL ITEMS. I REALIZE THIS IF AFTER THE FACT, BUT AFTER RECEIVING THAT LETTER FORM SUBARU, I FEEL THAT MY SUSPICION IS JUSTIFIED AND THINK THAT SUBARU SHOULD MAKE THIS RIGHT.THIS BUILDING WAS ERECTED FOR OVER FIVE YEARS AND THERE WASN'T ANYTHING IN THERE THAT WOULD OF STARTED THAT FIRE, OTHER THAN THAT CAR. PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CONTACT US. *TR

THIS CAR IS A SUBARU OUTBACK 2.5I MANUAL 6SPD TRANSMISSION. WHILE AT A STOP LIGHT WITH CAR IDLING, THE RPM'S GET VERY LOW AND CAR DIES. STARTS BACK UP RIGHT AWAY, BUT THEN AFTER IDLING FOR 15-20 SECONDS, THE CAR WILL DIE AGAIN. CONCERNED THAT THIS MAY HAPPEN WHILE DRIVING AS I HAVE READ REPORTS OF MANY OTHER MODELS OF THE SAME CAR DOING THE SAME THING WHILE DRIVING. THE DEALER SAYS THERE IS NOTHING WRONG AND THEY WILL CHARGE A TON OF MONEY TO COME BACK AND TELL ME THERE IS NOTHING WRONG. IT IS A CLEAR SAFETY ISSUE IF THE CAR CANNOT HOLD AN IDLE AND/OR DIES WHILE DRIVING. *TR

SUBARU OUTBACK LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS GOING OUT IS A DANGEROUS SAFETY ISSUE. PURCHASED 2011 OUTBACK IN NOV 2010. JULY 2011 DRIVER SIDE LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT REPLACED AT DEALER. NOV 2011 PASSENGER SIDE LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT REPLACED AT DEALER. JULY 2012 DRIVER SIDE LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT REPLACED AT DEALER. DEALER CHECKED OUT LIGHTING SYSTEM AND FOUND NO PROBLEMS. DEC 2012 BOTH LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS OUT. CALLED SUBARU CORPORATE AND THEY SAID THEY HAD NO REPORTS OF THIS PROBLEM (EVEN THOUGH THERE ARE LOTS OF DISCUSSIONS ONLINE). REPLACED AT LOCAL MECHANIC BECAUSE IT WAS 17 DEGREES OUT AND THESE BULBS ARE NOT EASY OR CHEAP TO CHANGE (MY COST WAS $40+ FOR 2 BULBS PLUS $38 FOR MECHANIC INSTALL). IDENTIFIED THAT DEALER BULBS REMOVED WERE PHILIPS. REPLACED WITH SYLVANIA. MARCH 2013 DRIVER SIDE LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT OUT AGAIN. CALLED CORPORATE AGAIN. THEY SUGGESTED TAKING TO LOCAL DEALER (45 MINUTES AWAY) TO HAVE THEM CHECK THE CAR OUT. CORPORATE AND DEALER ARE SORRY TO HEAR OF PROBLEM AND WILL CHANGE THE BULB ... BUT THAT DOESN'T ELIMINATE THE SAFETY ISSUE. IN ADDITION, IT DOESN'T TAKE CARE OF THE HASSLE OR THE COSTS. IF YOU NEED MORE EXAMPLES OF THIS SAME PROBLEM (TO PROVE IT IS NOT JUST MY CAR), CHECK OUT THESE OTHER CASES LISTED ON THIS NHTSA WEBSITE: 2011 ------------------------- DATE OF INCIDENT: 03/01/2013 NHTSA ID NUMBER: 10500919 DATE OF INCIDENT: 05/03/2012 NHTSA ID NUMBER: 10487940 DATE OF INCIDENT: 09/13/2012 NHTSA ID NUMBER: 10475296 DATE OF INCIDENT: 08/17/2012 NHTSA ID NUMBER: 10471366 2010 ---------------------------- DATE OF INCIDENT: 11/01/2011 NHTSA ID NUMBER: 10498055 DATE OF INCIDENT: 10/01/2010 NHTSA ID NUMBER: 10486749. *TR

I WAS DRIVING AT 65 MPH WITH THE CRUISE CONTROL ON AND ALL OF SUDDEN THE CRUISE DISENGAGED, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, BRAKE, AND TRACTION CONTROL LIGHTS LIT UP ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. THE CAR'S LOSS OF SPEED COULD HAVE CAUSED AN ACCIDENT AS THE LOSS OF SPEED WAS FAIRLY DRAMATIC. DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY TO SEE IF THAT WOULD HELP, IT DID, BUT ONLY FOR A DAY. IT HAPPENED AGAIN TODAY 12/17/2012. *TR

AS I WAS PASSING ANOTHER VEHICLE THE CAR MADE A LOUD CLUNK AND I LOST POWER TO THE ENGINE. I WAS IN THE OPPOSITE LANE OF A TWO LANE ROAD AND HAD TO SQUEEZE MY WAY BACK INTO MY LANE BEFORE A HEAD ON COLLISION WITH AN ON COMING CAR. AFTER I SAFELY GOT TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE CAR HAD NO IGNITION CONNECTION. THE CAR WOULD TURN OVER BUT NOT RUN. WHEN THE CAR WAS TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND TESTED IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE SIGNAL BETWEEN THE KEY AND THE IGNITION SYSTEM HAD BEEN BROKEN. AFTER THE KEYS WERE REPROGRAMMED THE CAR RAN JUST FINE. HOWEVER, I AM VERY CONCERNED THAT THIS COULD HAPPEN AGAIN AND PLACE MY FAMILIES LIVES IN DANGER AGAIN. I HAVE RECEIVED NO ASSURANCES THAT THIS WILL NOT HAPPEN AGAIN. *TR