1999 Oldsmobile Alero

DRIVER'S SIDE WINDOW MOTOR HAS BEEN REPLACED THREE TIMES IN THE LAST 4 YEARS. REAR DRIVER'S SIDE WINDOW MOTOR HAS ALSO BEEN REPLACED IN THE LAST YEAR. AMAZING HOW THIS KEEPS HAPPENING OVER AND OVER AGAIN. ALSO, MY HORN HAS GONE OFF IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NIGHT SEVERAL TIMES WITHOUT ANYTHING SETTING IT OFF. THERE IS NO WAY TO TURN IT OFF ONCE IT GOES. EACH TIME IT WAS 3 OR 4 IN THE MORNING AND EACH TIME I HAD TO DRIVE TO A REMOTE LOCATION JUST TO DISCONNECT THE HORN. OF COURSE, THE FIRST COUPLE OF TIMES I HAD NO IDEA HOW TO DO THIS BUT AFTER A WHILE YOU GET TO KNOW THESE THINGS. I HAVE HAD THE HORN REPLACED ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS WITHOUT ANY SUCCESS. NOW I AM BEING TOLD THAT IT IS THE HORN PADS LOCATED IN THE STEERING WHEEL. OF COURSE, THAT IS ANOTHER $800 - $1000 JOB ON TOP OF THE 4 WINDOWS THAT COST ABOUT $400 EACH AND THE HORNS WITH RAN ME ABOUT $150 TO $200 EACH. *JB

IN THE LAST SIX MONTHS THREE OUT OF 4 WINDOWS ON MY VEHICLE ARE NOW HELD UP WITH DUCT TAPE SO THAT THEY DON'T FALL INTO THE CHANNEL AND I CAN'T GET THEM UP. LUCKILY, ONLY ONE OF THEM MANAGED TO DO THAT AND A FRIEND MANAGED TO GET IT BACK UP FOR ME. THAT OCCURRED AT THE END OF JANUARY 2006. I COULD UNDERSTAND ONE- MAYBE- BUT THREE!!! NO. THIS IS DEFINITELY A SAFETY ISSUE. I SUSPECT THE ONLY REASON THAT MY ONE WORKING WINDOW, THE BACK PASSENGER SIDE, IS STILL WORKING IS BECAUSE I HAVEN'T TRIED TO PUT IT DOWN- OR THE RESULT WOULD BE THE SAME. I AM SURE THAT IS GOING TO BE EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR, SO I GUESS I'LL GO WITH THE DUCT TAPE FOR A WHILE. I HAVE ALSO HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, THE GASKETS ON THAT WERE REPLACED IN JANUARY, 2006. I WAS LOSING ANTIFREEZE FROM THE OVERFLOW TANK, AND HAVING TO FILL IT EVERY DAY. TOOK IT TO THE DEALER, AND THEY FOUND THE WATER PUMP LEAKING AND THE INTAKE GASKETS LEAKING. THEY WERE REPLACED AT MY EXPENSE. AND... THE INTERMITTENT TURN SIGNAL IS ALSO A PROBLEM. THAT HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR ABOUT A YEAR NOW. IT SHOULD BE RECALLED FOR THAT, LIKE YOU DID FOR THE 2000- 2001 VEHICLES. THE VEHICLE HAS 70,000 MILES ON IT. THE INTERIOR TRIM ON THIS VEHICLE IS SHODDY, AND THAT IS BEING KIND. THE CAR WAS PURCHASED BRAND NEW WITH 23 MILES ON IT WHEN WE GOT IT TO OUR HOUSE IN JUNE, 1999. IN LESS THAN A YEAR A DOOR PANEL HAD TO BE REPLACED BECAUSE IT HAD COME APART. THE DASHBOARD HAS BEEN PEELING FOR ABOUT 11/2 YEARS BECAUSE THEY USED CHEAP GLUE TO HOLD THE COVERING ON THE PLASTIC. I REALIZE THAT YOU CONSIDER THAT COSMETIC, BUT IT SHOULDN'T BE HAPPENING: I CHECK EVERY ALERO I SEE IN A PARKING LOT AND THERE ARE A LOT WITH PEELING DASHBOARDS. GM SHOULD BE RESPONSIBLE FOR FIXING THAT- THEY CAUSED THE PROBLEM. GM CAUSED MULTIPLE PROBLEMS ON THIS VEHICLE BY DOING IT ON THE CHEAP. IT IS VERY COSTLY TO THE PEOPLE WHO OWN THEM, AND IT SHOULDN'T BE. I DON'T MIND PAYING FOR ROUTINE REPAIRS, I EXPECT THAT, BUT THESE PROBLEMS ARE NOT "ROUTINE".*NM

LOCKED UP IGNITION SWITCH CRUISE CONTROL FELL APART GEAR SHIFT SHIFTER NOT SECURE AND SLIDES UP THE SHIFT.. BOTH OXYGEN SENSORS FAILED ALL FOUR WINDOWS ELECTRIC MOTORS, AND RACKS HAVE BEEN REPLACED FRONT END VIBRATION WHEN STOPPED OR PARKED ON INCLINE DASH BOARD LEATHER COVER CAME LOOSE AND ROLLED UP LIKE A USED RUG ORIGINAL FUEL FILTER HAVE TO BE PRIED OUT OF LINE AND THEN PIECES LEFT HAD TO BE REMOVED WITH NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS. FUEL GAUGE AS NEVER WORKED. NOW ITS RUNNING ABOUT 4 MILES AND THEN QUITS, SETS FOR 30 MINUTES AND DRIVE ANOTHER 4 MILES THEN QUITS. CODE READER SAYS ENGINE RUNNING LEAN, (PROBLEM IS 4 TO 5 SENSORS INCLUDING THE INJECTORS COULD BE CAUSING THIS, NO WAY TO TELL WITH REPLACING THEM UNTIL IT RUNS. THE EXPENSE OF THIS COULD BE 1000 TO 3000 DOLLARS. ELECTRIC DOOR LOCKS FAILED , REPLACE SWITCH, ONLY WORKS PART OF THE TIME. *JB

DT*: THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS THERE WAS A HUMMING NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. ADDITIONALLY, THE ABS LIGHT ILLUMINATED, THE CRUISE CONTROL BECAME INOPERABLE, A BURNING SMELL APPEARED AND THE VEHICLE WAS LOOSING WATER. THE DEALERSHIP INSPECTED THE VEHICLE. THE BATTERY, WIRING, SPARK PLUG WIRING AND A BELT WERE REPLACED. THE WATER PUMP AND WINDOW SWITCH WAS REPLACED. THE BLOWER MOTOR NEEDED TO CLEANED OUT. THE BRAKES WERE INOPERATIVE UPDATED 05/01/06.*JB

ON THE WAY FROM WORK ONE DAY AFTER A RAIN SHOWER, I USE THE POWER DRIVER WINDOW TO ROLL DOWN THE WINDOW FOR SOME FRESH AIR. WHEN I POWER ROLLED UP THE WINDOW, THERE WERE DEEP SCRATCHES ON VARIOUS PLACES ON THE WINDOW. TSB#98831520 TOOK TO DEALER SERVICE DEPT TO REPAIR UNDER WARRANTY. IT WAS FIXED BUT THREE DAYS LATER IT WAS SCRATCHED AGAIN IN THE SAME MANNER. TOOK BACK TO DEALER SERVICE TO REPAIR...OKAY. LATER OTHER THREE WINDOW HAD SCRATCHES DUE TO USE. ALL REPLACED, BUT NOW THREE OF THE FOUR WINDOWS (PASSENGER FRONT AND REAR AND DRIVER REAR) HAVE SCRATCHES. THERE WAS A TSB ISSUED FOR THIS PROBLEM, BUT THE PROBLEM WAS NEVER FIXED. NOW THE MANUFACTURE WARRANTY HAS EXPIRED. CONTACTED MANUFACTURE FOR ASSISTANCE BUT NO HELP OFFERED.

I HAVE HAD 3 OF THE 4 REGULATOR MOTORS GO OUT ON MY FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE, BACK DRIVERS AND PASSENGERS SIDE. I HAVE ONLY HAD THE FRONT DRIVERS SIDE REPAIRED AS THE DEALER QUOTED ME A PRICE OF $400 TO FIX EACH ONE. THE FRONT ONE BROKE WHILE STILL UNDER WARRANTY, SO THAT WAS FIXED. EACH TIME THIS HAPPENED AS THE WINDOW WAS ROLLED DOWN OR UP. THERE WAS A LOUD CLUNKING NOISE AND THE WINDOW JUST FELL DOWN. THIS IS ESPECIALLY ANNOYING SINCE I HAVE 2 SMALL KIDS AND THEIR WINDOWS WON'T STAY UP. THERE HAS GOT TO BE SOME SORT OF DEFECT, SINCE I'VE READ A NUMBER OF REPORTS ABOUT THIS SAME THING, AND SINCE IT'S HAPPENED TO 3 OF MY 4 WINDOWS. I HAVE A FEELING IT'S ABOUT TO HAPPEN TO THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE TOO, AS THAT WINDOW WON'T ROLL DOWN. *JB