2006 Nissan Maxima

I BOUGHT THIS 2006 NISSAN MAXIMA SL WITH 137,806 MILES. I DROVE IT HOME. THE NEXT DAY, IT WOULD NOT START, I WENT AND BOUGHT A BATTERY, ON THE WAY THE SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT CAME ON., THEN THE TCS AND SLIP LIGHT CAME ON. TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC SHOP, HE KEEP IT ALMOST 4 WEEKS, AND THEN TOLD ME IT WAS NOT WORTH FIXING/REPAIRING IT. I COULD NOT BELIEVE, I JUST SPENT OVER $4,000.00 ON THIS CAR AND I ONLY DROVE IT HOME!!, I TOOK IT TO ANOTHER WELL KNOWN MECHANIC SHOP, HE TELLS ME THAT IT NEEDS A NEW TRANSMISSION, MOTOR MOUNTS, SENSORS AND PROBABLY MORE. IT IS NOT WORTH FIXING IT. I AM A 57 YEAR OLD LADY AND I DONT HAVE THE MONEY TO BUY ANOTHER CAR AND I DONT HAVE THE MONEY TO FIX IT. I HEAR THAT THESE CARS HAVE ALOT OF TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS AND MORE. I WISH I HAD KNOWN THAT BEFORE BUYING IT.

"TAKATA RECALL" IN MOTION, SHIFTING HAS A LARGE CLOCK SOUND I'D LIKE TO KNOW IF IT'S A RECALL ON THE COIL. BOTH CITY STREET AND HIGHWAY, WHEN ACCELERATING IT SEEMS TO STALL IN MOVING TO THE NEXT GEAR OR ACTUALLY NOT EVEN SHIFT INTO THE NEXT GEAR IN MOTION, SO WILL NOT ALLOW THE CAR TO PICK UP ANY MOMENTUM. REVERSE IS VERY LOUD WITH A SOMEWHAT BANG TO IT. AS I SAID BEFORE IT COULD BE THE COIL BUT I'D LIKE TO KNOW HOW TO IDENTIFY IF IT'S ALSO A DRIVESHAFT.

AT 12,500 MILES I WAS DRIVING AND IT WAS LIKE SOMEONE PUT IT IN NEUTRAL. TOWED THE CAR TO THE DEALER AND THEY CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION. AT 34,000 MILES, IT STARTED KNOCKING AND SMOKING WHEN YOU FIRST START IT. BROUGHT TO DEALER AND THE GAS WAS MIXING WITH THE OIL. MY CLAIM WAS DENIED SO I HAD TO REPLACE THE ENGINE. NOW AT 110,000 MILES THE CAR WON'T SHIFT OUT OF FIRST GEAR. I'M A SINGLE MOTHER AND DO NOT HAVE ANY MORE MONEY TO SINK INTO THIS LEMON.

MY MAXIMA HAS BEEN JERKING AND HESITATING AT LOW SPEEDS. IT IS ONLY WHEN THE CAR HAS BEEN RUNNING FOR A BIT AND IS WARMED UP. A FEW TIMES IT HAS SLAMMED INTO GEAR SO HARD I THOUGHT I HAD BEEN REAR ENDED. IT IS SO BAD THAT I HAVE TO DRIVE WITH MY HAZARD LIGHT ON. I'M AFRAID FOR MY LIFE AND OTHER DRIVERS ON THE ROAD. THIS PROBLEM SHOULDN'T BE TAKEN LIGHTLY AND I BELIEVE NISSAN SHOULD BE HELD ACCOUNTABLE. *TR

BRAKE "ACTUATOR" STARTED HUMMING OR RUNNING AS SOON AS CAR ('06 NISSAN MAXIMA SE) WAS TURNED ON AWAY FROM HOME. CONTINUED TO KICK IN ABS AT EVERY BRAKE APPLICATION CREATING UNSAFE (OR AT LEAST NOT NORMAL) BRAKING SITUATIONS AND CONTINUED TO RUN WHEN CAR WAS SHUT OFF. ABS LIGHT, TCS LIGHT, AND SLIP LIGHT ALL ACTIVATED CONTINUALLY. CODES C1110 & C1105 & C1106 WERE PRESENT AFTER SCANNING AT LOCAL GARAGE. BATTERY DRAINED AFTER CAR SHUT OFF DUE TO ACTUATOR CONTINUING TO RUN WITH CAR SHUT OFF. PER RESEARCH AND OTHER TSB OR NISSAN-ISSUED TECHNICAL BULLETINS, THE REAR HUB ABS SENSOR FREQUENTLY MALFUNCTIONS DUE TO A DESIGN FLAW IN THE CAR. IF DRIVEN WHILE MALFUNCTIONING (AS IN THIS CASE) THE CONTROLLER/ACTUATOR MAY MALFUNCTION. TURNING OFF "ABS" WHILE DRIVING SEEMS TO KEEP THE ACTUATOR FROM RUNNING, BUT ALSO MAKES DRIVING LESS SAFE, ESPECIALLY IN INCLEMENT WEATHER DUE TO TURNING OFF TCS/ABS. I'VE HAD TO REPLACE THIS OUT-OF-POCKET (DESPITE BEING AN EXTREMELY COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS MODEL VEHICLE). SENSORS AND ACTUATOR WERE REPLACED. VEHICLE DRIVEN AGAIN. LESS THAN 8 MONTHS LATER, SAME ISSUES RETURN. NISSAN DEALERSHIP REPLACED REAR SENSOR PER CODES, NEW CODE FOR ACTUATOR SHOWS AGAIN (AFTER SENSORS PLACED IN) AND THEY REQUIRE ME TO PAY OUT OF POCKET AGAIN FOR NEW ACTUATOR. THIS IS OBVIOUSLY A DESIGN FLAW IN THE CAR (PER MANY OTHER REPORTS) AND SHOULD BE RECALLED IMMEDIATELY FOR REPAIR. *TR