2019 Hyundai Tucson

formance exhaust. I bought catalytic conVerter that they told me to buy for 600+ dollars and took it to child's shop they told me that the catalytic converter isnt clogged nor is it affecting my car and provided me with these codes about the camshaft and crankshaft (P0017,P000B, P000A) which they stated hyundai should have fixed under the engine warranty because it was a recall on these engines on this year car. They stated that even if fixed the converter my car would still perform the same and 3 other mechanics have said the same and stated hyundai would have to fix it. After oil changes the oil consumption in my car is constantly getting oil before its even due for another oil change. I have already paid so much just by having people look at it, buying oil, parts, and etc. i am furious to know that i was sold a car that was recalled with engine problems and been having problems since i got it. I have 2 kids i have to get to and from school and this my only transportation. My car has been misfiring and not going over 40 miles. This is my only vehicle and hyundai has put me in a messed up situation. The recalled was may 2022 and hyundai sold me this car june 9 2022. I contacted the june 15, 2022 about the engine light they kept turning off. Car is stalling, making noise, not holding oil. Have to top oil weeks after getting oil changed

Lost power when accelerating up highway hills, it coded P0420, catalytic converter on Bank 1 is not operating as efficiently as it should. This code is often caused by issues with the fuel or exhaust systems, which can result in insufficient oxygen leaving the catalytic converter. Hyundai dealer changed the catalytic converter July 2023, 1 yr to the day my vehicle did the same thing and had another Hyundai dealer change the catalytic converter to which 1 week later my car is still showing the code and is still jolting as I try to pick up speed.

On 05/11/2024, I accelerated onto the freeway at which point my vehicle would no longer go past 50 mph with the pedal to the floor. I had my two small children in the car at the time. It was dangerous as cars around us were going 65+ mph. The check engine light started blinking when this was occurring. Prior to that the check engine light had been on because the dealership claimed they didn’t know why it was triggering and that they have to take my engine out and replace it just to explore the issue. I don’t have the money for that. It has a knocking sound, a pungent fuel smell and it still won’t accelerate. I only have 85k miles on the car.

I was just entering the expressway about 70 miles from my home, and the engine light came on in the vehicle. I could not accelerate to more than 52 mph even with the pedal to the floor. I had to drive home in the right-hand lane with my hazards on. This was the second time this happened within a month. The first time the dealer replaced the knock sensor after one week. It ran fine for 3 weeks and then the exact same thing happened in exactly the same place 70 miles from my home. My car has been in the shop for a week now, and they still don't know what the issue is, even though they are communicating with Hyundai. I see a pattern here after reading so many similar complaints from other people owning a Hyundai Tucson.

I was driving on the highway. The engine began making a ticking noise that momentarily went away and then quickly got louder. I saw white smoke out of the back, pulled over, and then saw black smoke from the front. The check engine light only momentarily came out AFTER the white smoke was visible and I was actively pulling over. I ran out of the car, and turned to look only to see a fire under the engine bay. I did not have a collision nor hit anything on the road. Engine had full synthetic oil in it, and the oil was changed less than 10,000 miles precious. (Also checked oil level/condition the week before). The car went from driving fine, to entirely engulfed in flames within 2-4 minutes. Maine state police: case# 245000657 The vehicle has not been inspected by the insurance company yet. The report will be sent to me, and it is currently available for inspection upon request. I literally could have burned alive. My family could have been trapped. I was on the highway, LUCKILY I decided to pull over when I did. If I did not, within 40 seconds I would’ve been engulfed in flames. I have most certainly not been sleeping well in the least bit. The only warning sign happened 5-10 seconds before I was out of the vehicle.

*Inside of car smelt like urine upon start. Car went into limp mode. First trip to dealership, catalytic converter was replaced. After the 6th time to dealership for same issue, manufacture approved engine replacement. *The car went into limp mode which posed a safety risk to our family as well as other vehicles on the road. This happened twice while on the freeway and we could have been rear-ended due to unexpected reduced speed. This also happened twice while turning with oncoming traffic approaching. *The problem was reproduced as this happened 6 times before the manufacture would approve an engine replacement. *The dealership replaced all the fuel injectors. No change engine went into limp mode P1326 (failure code). *The dealership installed a new short block engine. *The engine smelling like urine appears to be the first symptom (catalytic converter failure and replaced). When the car went into limp mode the engine light flashes. P1326 (failure code). Urine smell occurred beginning in July 2022 at (23,926 miles). Car went into limp mode for the first time on September 23 (approximately 25,400). * Another issue we are now addressing not related to the above engine issues: Car fish-tales when you drive over any bump in the road. *The dealership is replacing both rear shock absorbers. They said both shocks were leaking fluid. *Car is very unstable and throws you around (like hydro-planning the pavement is dry). *No warning signs, just started happening.

2019 Hyundai Tucson I purchased 13 months ago with a mere 5, 241 miles on it., (Currently 29k mi) from Bert Ogden Subaru/Mazda in Edinburg, TX. On 6/26/22 it Started Shaking violently then "rodknocking" and finally failing in middle of major, high-traffic hwy. Near causing accident. NOwarning lights, check engine lights, oil lights, etc. Car was towed to Tipton Ford Hyundai, in Brownsville, TX. As it urns out (through my own research), my vin# falls under a recall issue that was not fixed prior to purchase nor disclosed to me, re:"engine monitoring and logics warning system failure". More importantly, 2) There are several class-action lawsuits underway, one settled, in which Hyundai was found liable for faulty "class II Theta Engines" and a suit involving "GDI NU 2.OL" (same as my vehicle) leading to rod knocking sensor failure, premature worn bearings and even cars catching fire! This is a no-brainer situation in which hyundai should be replacing my engine as ordered, but instead they are claiming, vehicle "neglect" (all maint. receipts were provided)and rejecting claim(which seems to be their m.o. based on similar complaints / civil filings that are ALL OVER THE WEB) and dealer says Im responsible for paying for new engine. Not sure who is responsible: the dealer I purchased from, for selling me a defective vehicle, the Hyundai dealer it was towed to, or Hyundai itself for denying what is a VERY well known liability on their part and apparently a widespread years-long issues with engine defects, recalls, suits, judgements, etx but have many court transcripts of consumers claiming Hyundai blaming thd customer for "neglect" to avoid replacing engine. I need legal help and advice. I HAVE to have car for work and dealer knows it and seems hyundai does, because they wont cover rental, wont provide "loaner" and seems dealer didnt even debate this with HMA because I purchased vehicle elsewhere. They just accepted Hyundai's denial and is now attempting to take advantage.

MY 2019 TUCSON HAS BEEN GETTING HORRIBLE GAS MILEAGE AND ALSO MAKING SOME STRANGE NOISES THAT I'M UNSURE OF WHAT THEY ARE. IT'S ALSO ACTING LIKE IT HAS NO POWER INSTALLING ON A PRETTY REGULAR BASIS SINCE THE DEALERSHIP HAS STATED NOTHING'S WRONG WITH IT AND MY VEHICLE HEALTH REPORT CONTINUES TO STATE NOTHING IS WRONG I DECIDED TO GET A OBD2 ADAPTER TO PLACE ON IT SO I COULD SEE WHAT WAS HAPPENING. WHILE THE VEHICLE IS RUNNING AT IDLE DOESN'T MATTER IF IT IS COLD OR WARM THE THROTTLE BODY SENSOR DOES NOT GO UNDER A 10 SO IT'S OBVIOUSLY STICKING I DON'T KNOW IF IT IS DEFECTIVE OR IF IT'S BEEN LIKE THAT FOR SOME TIME BUT IF THE THROTTLE BODY IS STUCK THEN THAT'S GOING TO CAUSE IT TO STALL THAT'S GOING TO MAKE IT BURN MORE GAS THAT'S GOING TO MAKE IT RUN PRETTY CRAPPY AND BE KIND OF HIT AND MISS. THE VEHICLE'S BRAKES ARE ALWAYS GRINDING AND SQUEALING. THERE IS ALSO A WINE AND A TAPPING CLICKING SOUND COMING FROM UNDER THE HOOD I DON'T KNOW IF IT'S A BAD PULLEY OR BEARING OR A LOOSE HEAT SHIELD OR WHATEVER BUT IT'S NOT INJECTORS THERE'S SOMETHING UNDER IT. THE RPMS ARE CONTINUOUSLY GETTING STUCK THE GAUGES ARE GETTING STUCK, THIS CAR MALFUNCTIONS EVERY DAY.