1999 Honda CR-V

I OWN A 1999 HONDA CR-V. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AROUND 102,000 MILES. THE CAR BEGAN LOSING POWER, SHAKING WHILE IDLING AND CHUGGING LOUDLY DURING GEAR SHIFTING. ONE DAY THE ENGINE JUST DIED, RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE PARKING LOT I WAS DRIVING THROUGH. NO WARNING. I THEN TOOK IT TO A MECHANIC I TRUST. THEY FIRST HAD ME REPLACE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP, ROTOR, SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES. IT TOOK THEM TWO VISITS TO FINALLY REALIZE THE VALVES WERE BURNT AND THE HEAD NOW MUST BE REPLACED. AVERAGE COST TO REPLACE IS $3500 TO $4000. I HAVE BEEN RESEARCHING THIS AND IT IS A COMMON COMPLAINT FOR 1997 TO 2000 PLUS MODELS. THIS PROBLEM MUST BE STOPPED BEFORE SOMEONE IS SERIOUSLY INJURED. *TR

HELLO I HAVE A 1999 HONDA CRV.. I HAVE 102K ON MY CAR. I HAVE HAD TAKEN MY CAR TO A REPAIR SHOP (HONDAPRO) AND THEY TOLD ME THAT PARTICULAR ENGINE HAS HAD PROBLEMS SPECIFICALLY WITH THE VALVES OVERTIGHTENING AND CAUSING THE HEAD TO NEED TO BE REPLACED. NO SYMPTOMS ACCRUE THEN THE CEL COMES ON WITH CODES OF MISFIRE, BY THAT TIME ITS TOO LATE. BURNT AND CRACKED VALVES ARE A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS CAR. I HAVE READ SEVERAL FORUMS THAT HAS OTHER OWNERS OF THE HONDA CRV THAT HAS HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AND HAD TO REPLACE THE HEAD THAT COSTS THE CONSUMER AT LEAST BETWEEN 3-5K TO FIX THE PROBLEM. I HAVE ALREADY REPLACED THE VALVES ON MINE ONCE AT ABOUT 87,327 MILES. I DON'T THINK THAT THE ENGINE HEAD IS A GOOD ONE WHEN ITS ONLY BEEN LESS THAT 15K MILES AND THE PROBLEMS COME BACK. I HOPE SOMETHING CAN GET DONE ABOUT THIS HEAD PROBLEM. THANK YOU. *TR

MY 1999 HONDA CR-V HAS THE SRS LIGHT ON. THE DEALER INFORMED ME THERE IS AN INTERNAL FAILURE IN THE SRS UNIT. THIS IS NOT COVERED BY THE WARRANTY AND WILL COST $826 TO REPAIR. I DID NOT ABUSE THIS SYSTEM. I HAVE NEVER EVEN SEEN THE AIR BAGS OR SRS UNIT. IF THE SEATBELTS HAVE TO FUNCTION THEN THE AIRBAGS SHOULD HAVE TO FUNCTION ALSO. I CANNOT AFFORD THIS REPAIR. PLEASE NOTE ALL THE OTHER COMPLAINTS ABOUT HONDA SRS FAILURES REPORTED ON THE INTERNET AND REQUIRE HONDA TO REPAIR THESE FOR FREE AS A SAFETY ISSUE. *TR

OWN A 1999 HONDA CRV ORIGINAL OWNER, THE BACK REAR LATCH FREEZES ALMOST YEARLY USUALLY IN THE SUMMER MONTHS. NEED TO TAKE A SCREWDRIVER AND TRY TO LOOSEN THE LOCK LATCH REPEATEDLY AND SPRAY WITH W40 SOMETIMES IT WORKS, VERY FUSTRATING AND DANGEROUS IF IT WONT CLOSE. IF THE LOCK DOESN'T MOVE, I MUST TIE THE DOOR CLOSED FROM INSIDE THE CAR WITH A ROPE TIED TO THE BACK SEAT. *TR

I PURCHASED A USED CR-V MORE THAN FIVE YEARS AGO N AND UP UNTIL THIS SUMMER HAVE BEEN EXCEPTIONALLY PLEASED WITH THE VEHICLE. MY COMPLAINT IS REGARDING THE REAR DOOR LATCH, WHICH IS NOW FROZEN AND INOPERABLE. UNFORTUNATELY, THIS SITUATION OCCURRED AT THE TIME THE REAR DOOR WAS OPEN, AND TOOK MUCH TIME AND MUSCLING TO EVEN GET THE DOOR LATCH TO CLOSE. NOW IT IS PERMANENTLY FROZEN IN THE CLOSED POSITION, ALLOWING ME TO TRAVEL, BUT NOT TO USE THE REAR DOOR. MY SISTER ALSO PURCHASED A CR-V, AFTER RIDING IN MINE. INTERESTINGLY ENOUGH, THE EXACT SAME SITUATION HAS HAPPENED TO HER, WITH A COMPLETE LATCH FAILURE ON THE REAR DOOR. HER SON, AN AUTO MECHANIC, HAS DETERMINED THE LATCH IS COMPLETELY CORRODED, AND MUST BE REPLACED.*AK

ON THREE SEPARATE OCCASIONS, I HAVE GONE TO WARM UP THE CAR AND THE AUTOMATIC LOCKS ON THE VEHICLE HAVE ENGAGED AFTER I HAVE EXITED THE VEHICLE. ON TWO OF THOSE OCCASIONS, A CHILD HAS BEEN IN THE VEHICLE, LOCKING THE CHILD IN THE CAR WITH THE CAR RUNNING. THE CAR DOES NOT HAVE TO BE IN DRIVE, OR HAVE BEEN MOVING FOR THE LOCKS TO ENGAGE. THE DOORS LOCK WITHIN SECONDS OF THE CAR DOOR BEING SHUT AND ONCE THE KEY IS IN THE IGNITION, THE REMOTE SENSOR CAN NOT BE USED TO UNLOCK THE VEHICLE. *JB

I HAVE A HONDA CRV 99 AND IT HAS BEEN HAVING THE SAME PROBLEMS/SYMPTOM AS DESCRIBED IN THE RECALL DETAIL. IT STALLS WHEN I STOP AT THE STOP SIGN OR TRAFFIC LIGHT. I HAVE SPENT MONEY TO REPLACE THE MAP SENSOR, IDLE CONTROL VALVE, TEMPERATURE SENSOR, TUNE UP...AND NONE OF THOSE HELP. I CHECKED WITH THE DEALER TO SEE IF MY CAR IS ON THE RECALL LIST AND THEY SAID NO. WHAT CAN I DO? MY CAR'S VIN #: HLRD2844XC012842 ANY HELP FROM YOU WOULD BE VERY MUCH APPRECIATED. *NM

I HAVE HAD TWO INSTANCES WHERE THERE WAS TREAD SEPARATION ON BRIDGESTONE DUELER H/T 684 205 70R 15 95S. THE FIRST INSTANCE 2 YEARS AGO WAS CATASTROPHIC AND CAUSED $2300 IN DAMAGE TO THE LEFT REAR OF THE CAR. LAST WEEK THE CAR SUDDENLY STARTED VIBRATING. INSPECTION OF THE TIRES SHOWED A LARGE BUBBLE UNDER THE TREAD OF THE RIGHT FRONT TIRE. ONE OF THE DEFECTIVE TIRES WAS ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT AND THE OTHER TIRE WAS PURCHASED AS ONE OF 4 REPLACEMENT TIRES. THE TIRES HAD 40-50,000 MILES ON THEM BUT STILL HAD PLENTY OF TREAD REMAINING. THERE WAS NO UNEVEN WEAR ON THE TREAD. ACCORDING TO THE INFORMATION MOLDED ONTO THE TIRES, THE TIRES WERE MADE A COUPLE OF YEARS APART. THIS WOULD LEAD ME TO BELIEVE THAT EITHER THEIR IS A DESIGN DEFECT IN THE TIRE OR THERE IS A MANUFACTURING PROBLEM. I HAVE BEEN DRIVING FOR OVER 45 YEARS AND THIS IS THE ONLY TIRE I HAVE EVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH. IN THE FIRST INSTANCE, A BRIDGESTONE TIRE DEALER TOLD ME I HAD TO REPORT IT TO THE MANUFACTURER AND PROVIDED A PHONE NUMBER. AFTER TWO WEEKS OF CALLING THE GIVEN PHONE NUMBER THAT WAS NEVER ANSWERED, I GAVE UP. THUS, I AM NOTIFYING YOU. *NM

REPORT OF BRIDGESTONE TIRE FAILURE (TREAD SEPARATION) ON 1999 HONDA CRV. WHILE DRIVING ON INTERSTATE HIGHWAY NOTICED VEHICLE VIBRATION, AND UNABLE TO DETERMINE IF CAUSED BY ROAD SURFACE OR VEHICLE. AFTER ABOUT 200 MILES VIBRATION BECAME BAD ENOUGH TO DETERMINE VEHICLE WAS AT FAULT. DRIVER CONDUCTED VISUAL (ON VEHICLE) INSPECTION OF TIRES WITH NO DEFECT NOTED. AFTER ANOTHER 50 MILES, VIBRATION WORSENED TO THE POINT THAT IT WAS EVIDENT BELOW 50 MPH. REMOVED RIGHT REAR TIRE AND DISCOVERED NEAR FAILURE TREAD SEPARATION. TIRE IS SEVERAL YEARS OLD AND MAY HAVE 40,000 MILES WEAR. THIS IS THE SECOND FAILURE OF THIS TYPE TIRE ON THIS VEHICLE IN THE PAST FEW YEARS. FIRST FAILURE RESULTED IN VERY LOW SPEED BLOW-OUT. LATEST TIRE IS AVAILABLE FOR INSPECTION. *JB