1994 GMC Jimmy

EGR VALVE CONTINUALLY FAILS (OPENS) , THE ENGINE LOOSES VACUME AND BRAKES FAIL TO FUNCTION. SINCE 1999 THE EGR HAS BEEN REPLACED SEVEN (7) TIMES AND IS CURRENTLY IN A FAILURE MODE. IN SPITE OF THE FACT THAT THERE HAVE BEEN SERVICE BULLITENS ISSUED WITH REGARD TO THIS PROBLEM GMC HAS REFUSED TO ADDRESS THE PROBLEM. TO DATE OVER TWO THOUSAND DOLLARS HAS BEEN SPENT REPLACING EGR VALVES. WHEN DRIVING I AM IN CONSTANT FEAR OF THE EGR VALVE FAILING AND COVERSLY, THE BRAKES FAILING. *AK

1994/GMC/JIMMY,S1500,4.3 /6/ MY FRONT DRVER SEAT ROCKS WHEN I HAVE TO BRAKE SUDDENLY. WHEN IT RAINS BRAKES LOCK UP, SLIDES BEFORE COMPLETELY STOPS, DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW DOESN'T WORK,LOCKS WORKS ON OCASSIONS,IT RATTLES WHEN PARKING OR PARKED.WHEN SHUTTING OFF SHAKES COMPLETELY THEN SHUTS OFF . AN AWFUL SMELL FROM GAS FUMES I HAVE TO DRIVE WITH THE OTHER THREE WINDOWS DOWN JUST TO HAVE FRESH AIR.,BLACK SMOKE,DO NOT START UPON FIRST TRY,BACK TAIL GATE RATTLES.FAN FOR A/C OR HEAT DON'T WORK THRU VENTS.SLOWS DOWN TO 15MPH SOMETIMES IT IT WILL SPEED UP UN NESSACARILY, WHEN ON ROAD IN CITY LIMITS SLOWS DOWN AND SHUTS OFF ON HIGH WAYS. BUT MOST OF ALL THE BRAKES SCARES ME I NEVER KNOW WHEN IT WILL WORK OR WHEN IT WON'T ,SO I TRY NOT TO TRAVEL WITH MY CHILDREN OR WHEN IT IS RAINING .MY VEHICHILE WAS LISTED AS RELIABLE AND LOW GAS MILAGE I HAVE TO PUT$10.00 IN EVERY DAY AND NOT TRAVEL UNESSACARILY. I HAD NOT HAD THIS TRUCK LONG AND IT IS A LIABILITY HEALTH WISE AND FINACIALLY. IF SOME ONE CAN HELP OR HAVE INFORMATION THAT MAY BE USEFULL ,I AM INTERESTEDWHAT CAN I DO OR SHOULD DO.*AK

AFTER THE VEHICLE WARMED UP THE OIL PRESSURE GAUGE WOULD READ ALMOST 0. STARTED READING OK UNTIL IT WARMED UP. TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AND THE ONLY THING THEY COULD FIGURE OUT WAS THAT THE OIL PUMP HAD GONE BAD. THEIR PRICE QUOTE WAS UNREAL (+ OR - $3,200). WE TOOK IT TO A LOCAL MECHANIC AND THEY ESTIMATED $1,200.00. HAD TO DROP THE TRANSMISSION THEY SAID TO GET TO THE OIL PUMP. THIS YEAR (2003) THE GAUGE IS ACTING UP AGAIN. IT STARTS OUT FINE AND AFTER IT WARMS UP, IT DROPS TO ABOUT 10 ON THE PRESSURE GAUGE. WHEN YOU ACCELERATE THE PRESSURE GOES UP TO MAYBE 20 OR SO ON THE GAUGE. I AM NOT EXACTLY SURE ON THE EXACT PURCHASE AND INCIDENT DATE. BUT THEY ARE APPROXIMATE. I HAVE FOUND NUMEROUS ARTICLES ON THE INTERNET RELATING TO GMC AND THE FAULTY OIL PRESSURE GAUGE/READINGS. I COULD NOT FIND ANY SPECIFIC RESEARCH THAT POINTED TO THE EXACT PROBLEM. WHETHER IT WAS THE GAUGE, THE ENGINE OR ETC. I TALKED WITH FRIENDS AND RELATIVES THAT OWN THE JIMMY OR BLAZER AND THEIRS WAS ACTING THE SAME WAY. *NLM

EGR VALVE CONTROLS ALL VACUUM SYSTEMS ALSO. SO WHEN THE PART FAILS YOU LOSE ALL BRAKES AND POWER. YOU WILL SUDDENLY FIND YOURSELF WITHOUT STEERING AND ANY *ANY* BRAKING POWERS. THE FAILURE CONTINUES AND ALL THE LOCAL DEALERSHIP CAN DO IS ADD NEW PARTS TO CHANGE. TOTAL COSTS OVER 2000 DOLLARS IN SIX WEEKS THIS LAST TIME. YET WITH LESS THAN THREE THOUSAND MILES ON THE CAR WITH THE LAST EGR VALVE THE PART FAILED. WE HAVE HAD THREE IN THE LAST SIX MONTHS. WE HAVE REPLACED NINE IN LESS THAN FOUR YEARS. THIS PART CAN ONLY BE BOUGHT FROM THE DEALERSHIP AT COSTS FROM 250 - 400 DOLLARS. THE COST IS BAD, BUT THE DANGER TO ALL INSIDE THE CAR IS EXTREME. WE ASK THAT YOU INVESTIGATE THIS PLEASE. *AK

INTERMITTENTLY VEHICLE WILL STALL OUT AND DIE WITHOUT WARNING WHEN SLOWING DOWN. IT HAS BEEN DETERMINED THAT EGR VALVUE IS DEFECTIVE. *AK CONSUMER ALSO STATES BRAKES FAIL THEY BECOME VERY HARD TO STOP AND CONTROL VEHICLE. THE ENGINE SURGES, CHECH ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON WHEN SLOWING DOWN OR STOPPING, ENGINE STALLS LOSSES POWER STEERING AND BRAKES BECOME HARD WHEN YOU PRESS DOWN.*JB

EGR VALVE HAS FAILED FOUR TIMES, VALVE FAILS ON ACCELERATION. CONTACTED DEALER, AND DEALER WAS NOT WILLING TO DO ANYTHING.*AK CONSUMER ALSO HAD TRANSMISSION REPLACED IT WAS NOISY,ALSO BRAKES WERE INEFFECTVE, IT WAS DETERMINED THAT REAR WHEEL CYLINDERS WERE LEAKING AND EXCESS BUILD UP OF BRAKE DUST, MECHANIC RECOMMENDED THAT VEHICLE NOT BE DRIVEN DUE TO BOTH REAR WHEEL CYLINDERS ARE LEAKING, ALSO WHEN VEHICLE IS WARMED UP, AND THE LONGER ITS DRIVEN VEHICLE HESITATES AND STALLS, SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON,ALSO RADIATOR LOW ON COOLANT INSPECTION FOUND THAT HOSE CLAMP AT THERMOMETER HOUSING LOOSE CAUSING LEAK, CLAMP WAS TIGHTENED.*JB

VEHICLE WAS ACCELERATING TO PASS A SLOWER VEHICLE ON A HILL. THE THROTTLE BECAME JAMMED IN A FULL OPEN POSITION CAUSING THE VEHICLE TO CONTINUE TO ACCELERATE IN TRAFFIC . THE DRIVER IN AN ATTEMPT TO REGAIN CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE SHIFTED INTO NEUTRAL RESULTING IN THE ENGINE OVER REVING. THE ENGINE DEVELOPED A KNOCK WHICH WAS LATER DIAGNOSED AS A FAILED CONNECTOR BEARING. UPON INVESTIGATION AS TO CAUSE OF THE JAMMED THROTTLE VALVE IT WAS DISCOVERED THAT A HEAT SENSOR (IN THE RUBBER BOOT BETWEEN THE AIR FILTER AND THE AIR INTAKE MANIFOLD) HAD DROPPED ONTO THE TOP OF THE ENGINE INSUCH A WAY AS TO CAUSE THE THROTTLE VALVE CAM TO JAM IN A FULL OPEN POSITION. THIS FAILURE RESULTED IN THE ENGINE BEING RUINED AND REPLACED AT A COST OF $2700 PLUS TAX.*AK

WAS DRIVING VEHICLE WHEN OIL PRESSURE LIGHT WENT OUT. ENGINE STARTED KNOCKING. TOOK TO INDEPENDENT MECHANIC, AND INFORMED CONSUMER OF ENGINE TROUBLE. OIL PAN SHOWED NO SIGNS OF OIL. PAINT HAD PEELED OFF OIL PAN AND CLOGGED INTAKE MANIFOLD. CONTACTED MANUFACTURER , AND REPRESENTATIVE SENT OUT TO CHECK OIL PAN. AT FIRST INDICATED WOULD HELP WITH REPAIRS. LATER, INFORMED CONSUMER ENGINE WAS TOO OLD, AND WOULD NOT HELP WITH REPAIRS. *AK *SLC