2017 Ford Escape

Coolant is leaking internally into motor. All gaskets, seals, hoses and radiator are operational with no issues. This is a hazzard and could/will result in damage and potentially serious harm. Dealer has indicated everything checks out and leak is internal intrusion. This is a known issue with Ford and they are unwilling to correct

In January 2024, the check engine light came on and we had an ignition coil and spark plug replaced. Less than a week later, the check engine light came back on and diagnostics showed a "misfire" on the same coil. The technician noticed the coolant was empty, refilled and found coolant entering the cylinder while engine was cooling. Engine had a "failed head gasket or cracked/warped head." Had to replace the engine, this was at 67,863 miles. Later I was speaking with a friend and was informed that this is evidently a known issue with the 2017 Escapes- some are already under recall, but my particular VIN number is not included in the existing recall. As I was researching online, it seems that many others, also not included in the recall, are having the same issue.

Sept. 2024, while driving my 2017 Ford Escape, four-cylinder Eco boost engine 2 L down the highway, without warning all the dash lights came on and the engine quit running leaving me stranded on the side of a very busy highway. I had not noticed any engine problems at all until this moment. After a Good Samaritan told me the radiator was almost completely empty of fluid, he added water to my radiator reservoir and told me to immediately ‘gently nurse it’ to an auto repair shop. Which I did. The shop owner took several hours to examine the engine. He told me it ran hot because the radiator fluid had leaked into the oil. He later told me the smoke also coming from the tailpipe, the way the engine was hesitating to start up and radiator fluid in the oil was an indication my engine had a cracked head. He showed me the oil which was a chocolate brown. The shop owner told me it was not supposed to be that color. He told me it was a direct indication that my radiator fluid/antifreeze had leaked into the oil. He informed me this would lead to complete engine failure, and I needed to immediately take it to a shop/dealership where the engine could be rebuilt or completely replaced (he already had several vehicles he was currently working on and would not have time to get to it for several months). I drove my SUV home which was just 4 miles from this shop. It took me awhile to make arrangements for a local Ford dealership. In the meantime, I had not tried to start it back up at all. The morning I was to take my SUV to the dealership it would not start at all. I had to call a wrecker to have it towed to the Ford dealership, where they confirmed the findings of the initial mechanic. My SUV only has 89,748 miles on it. I still owe $11,000 and it will not start at all.

The contact's wife owns a 2017 Ford Escape. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to start. The vehicle was towed to the dealer, where it was diagnosed that the engine had failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure, but no assistance was provided. The failure mileage was approximately 70,000.

The contact owns a 2017 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while driving at 70-75 MPH, the vehicle lost motive power. The front of the vehicle began to jerk. The contact was able to pull over to a rest area before the engine seized. The vehicle failed to crank up. The contact used a scope to see if the camshaft was moving. The low pressure and engine light were illuminated. The vehicle was taken to a local dealer, where it was diagnosed that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired, but the failure recurred. The manufacturer was contacted, who opened a case, but no additional assistance was provided. The failure mileage was approximately 48,000.

The contact owns a 2017 Ford Escape. The contact stated while driving at an undisclosed speed, the engine overheated. The vehicle was driven to the shoulder of the road. The contact inspected the vehicle and refilled the coolant reservoir. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where it was diagnosed with a coolant intrusion into cylinder #2 and a failed engine. The contact was informed that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The contact was advised to take the vehicle to the dealer. The vehicle was taken to the dealer where it was diagnosed with a coolant intrusion and a failed engine. The contact was informed that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and a case was filed. The contact referenced an unknown recall repair, which had a similar failure description. However, the contact was informed that the contact's VIN was not associated with any unknown recall repair. The failure mileage was approximately 98,000.

Engine fault popped up on the instrument panel on 12/16/2024. Diagnostic said misfire on cylinder 3, replaced the plug and coil pack and topped off the antifreeze.Two days later vehicle overheated and started blowing white smoke out of the exhaust, antifreeze was totally gone. Took it back to the mechanic and was told the engine needed replaced.

The car experienced a sudden loss of boost power and, at the same time, and MUCH more concerning and dangerous, a total loss of brake power assist. The brakes were firm (hard), but had ZERO power assist, and I could barely stop the car at idle in my driveway, much less on a highway or open road. I thank God that my son, who was driving at the time, was not in a dangerous situation when this failure occurred. It turns out, a single vacuum pump, mated directly to the camshaft, applies vacuum boost to the turbo (power loss) and brakes (catastrophic brake failure). I replaced the vacuum pump, but the problem persisted, so I had to take it in to the dealership for evaluation. I was told the problem is the bolt that mates the vacuum pump to the cam shears off when the vacuum pump seizes. I subsequently read of many cases of this problem on the Escape, but also on the F-150 (for which there is apparently a recall???) -- really, any Ford with an Ecoboost turbo engine. Additionally, the bolt shearing and vacuum pump disintegrating, leads to metal shavings that destroy the turbo. How this VERY serious road hazard caused by a terrible engineering design flaw (single point of catastrophic failure) hasn't resulted in a MAJOR safety recall for all these Ford Ecoboost engines is totally shocking and beyond me. This is coming from an engineer who has spent 50+ years working on cars. NHTSA has absolutely failed in not addressing this terrible safety and design problem.

The contact owns a 2017 Ford Escape. The contact stated while starting and driving at various speeds, the vehicle experienced rough idling. The check engine warning light was illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic and the dealer, who determined that there was coolant intrusion into the engine block and that the engine needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 50,000.