2012 Dodge Dart

2013 DODGE DART. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO TRANSMISSION MALFUNCTION, BROKEN TIRE SENSOR AND OTHER VEHICLE PROBLEMS. *SMD THE CONSUMER STATED THE TRANSMISSION HAS BEEN ON GOING SINCE, THE FIRST DAY THE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED. APPARENTLY, IT WAS A FACTORY DEFAULT, THAT COULD NOT BE FIXED. THE TRANSMISSION DOWN SHIFTED INTO SECOND GEAR, THE CLUTCH WOULD STICK, THE GEARS WERE GRINDING WHEN IN REVERSE AND A METALLIC NOISE WAS HEARD WHEN DOWN SHIFTING IN ANY GEAR THE DEALER REPLACED THE SECOND GEAR AND SYNCHRONIZERS. THE SUN VISOR NO LONGER STAYED IN ITS POSITION.

BRAKE SYSTEM FAILURE. STARTS WITH A LIGHT SOUND MUCH LIKE A PRESSURIZED SYSTEM RELEASING PRESSURE, THEN PROGRESSES INTO SOUNDING LIKE AN AIR BRAKE SYSTEM ON A TRUCK AT WHICH POINT THE BRAKES FAIL AND WILL NOT STOP THE VEHICLE. I'VE READ DOZENS OF REPORTS ABOUT THIS ONLINE. REPORTED TO BE A FAULTY BRAKE BOOSTER, POSSIBLY MASTER CYLINDER. I'VE ALSO REPORTED THIS TO DODGE AT THE EARLY STAGES WHEN IT WAS JUST A LIGHT SOUND, AND WAS TOLD IT WAS NORMAL. BUT FROM SIMILAR REPORTS, THIS IS NOT NORMAL. *TR

A FEW SHORT WEEKS AFTER PURCHASING THE 2013 DODGE DART RALLYE 1.4L TURBO; THE BLUETOOTH FAILED TO STAY CONNECTED. TOOK IT TO GET SERVICED AT LEAST THREE TIMES DUE TO THIS ISSUE. IN ADDITION, JUST RECENTLY (2014) THE EMERGENCY BRAKE HAS FAILED TO WORK WHEN PARKED ON AN INCLINE; NOT ALL OF THE TIME BUT SOMETIMES. ALSO RECENTLY NOTICED, THE CRUISE CONTROL BUTTON ON THE STEERING WHEEL FAILS TO WORK ALL OF THE TIME. NOT UNTIL YOU STOP AND RESTART THE VEHICLE DOES THE CRUISE CONTROL "DECIDE" TO WORK ONCE AGAIN. EVEN SO, IN THE FIRST FEW MONTHS OF OBTAINING THE VEHICLE I NOTICED CHIP MARKS ON THE FRONT BUMPER. AS 2014 HAS APPROACHED, THERE ARE ABOUT A COUPLE HUNDRED CHIP MARKS ON THE FRONT BUMPER BUT THE CAR HAS NOT BEEN DRIVEN IN AREAS TO CAUSE THIS MUCH DAMAGE. THE DODGE DART RALLYE'S WERE SUPPOSED TO CONTAIN CHIP GUARD WHICH DOES NOT MAKE SENSE AS TO WHY THE FRONT BUMPER PAINT HAS CHIPPED OFF SO BADLY!!! *TR

I HAVE HAD QUITE AN EXPERIENCE WITH MY DODGE DART. IT IS IN THE SHOP THIS WEEK. I HAD COMPLAINED FIRST ABOUT THE HESITATING WHEN I FIRST STARTED THE CAR AND IT WAS COLD OUTSIDE. THE ENGINE SEEMS TO GIVE OUT AND A TINY BACK FIRE. I HAVE THE COMPUTER NAVIGATION ON THE DASH AND IT BEGAN TO FLICKER AND MY MILEAGE STARTED TO FLASH. MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WOULD COME ON FOR NO REASON AND THE NAVIGATION BEGAN TO FAIL. I HAD PARKED MY DART IN THE DRIVEWAY AND IT HAD ROLLED OUT INTO THE STREET AND A COUNTY WORKER KNOCKED ON THE DOOR TO TELL ME I WAS BLOCKING ACCESS TO THE DRIVERS. I WENT TO MOVE MY CAR AND THE CLUTCH WAS STUCK TO THE FLOOR OF MY CAR. I COULD NOT GET IT IN OR OUT OF GEAR. SO FAR CHRYSLER HAS REPLACED THE ELECTRICAL/COMPUTER PART, THE PART FOR THE CLUTCH. I JUST FOUND OUT ABOUT THE RECALL FOR THE BRAKE AND TRANSMISSION. LAST MY DOOR IS DARKER THEN THE REST OF THE CAR AND THEY ARE HAVING IT PAINTED. *TR

FOR THE PAST YEAR AND A HALF MY CLUTCH HAS BEEN LOSING ALL RESISTANCE. THIS USUALLY HAPPENS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS COLD AND AT TIMES I AM UNABLE TO PUT MY CAR INTO GEAR. SOMETIMES THIS HAS HAPPENED WHILE AT STOP LIGHTS OR EVEN PULLING OUT INTO TRAFFIC. EVERY TIME I TAKE MY VEHICLE TO THE DEALERSHIP AIM TOLD THERE IS NOTHING WRONG. EVENTUALLY THEY REPLACED MY CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER ABOUT 8 MONTHS AGO THE FIRST TIME. PROBLEM SEEMED TO RESOLVE THEN ABOUT 2 MONTHS AGO IT STARTED DOING IT AGAIN. WENT BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP AND TOLD NOTHING WAS WRONG. AFTER MULTIPLE TRIPS TO DEALERSHIP THEY FINALLY AGREED TO REPLACE MASTER CYLINDER AND DISCOVERED THE SLAVE CYLINDER IS LEAKING. VEHICLE BACK IN THE SHOP FOR THE PAST WEEK REPLACING SLAVE CYLINDER. ANY PERSPECTIVE DART BUYERS OUT THERE, I REALLY CAUTION AGAINST THIS PURCHASE. THIS IS ONLY ONE OF MULTIPLE ISSUES I HAVE HAD. ON A SIDE NOTE, I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE NEW IN JULY 2012 WITH 120 MILES ON IT. SINCE THEN I HAVE HAD 2 IGNITION COILS REPLACED, 2 CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDERS, SLAVE CYLINDER, 3 TURBOS, CATALYTIC CONVERTER ALL REPLACED. BUYER BEWARE. *TR

WHEN APPLYING BRAKES. THE ENTIRE VEHICLE SHAKES.CAR DEALERSHIP SAID ROTORS WERE RUSTED AND PITTED ON ALL FOUR WHEELS AND WANTED 320 DOLLARS TO TURN THE ROTORS. I REFUSED THIS OPTION. I WAS TOLD THAT THIS HAPPENED BECAUSE THE CAR SAT STILL TOO LONG. THIS IS NOT TRUE BECAUSE THIS CAR IS USED DAILY. IT IS OBVIOUS THERE ARE NO BRAKES ON THE BACK WHEELS BY OBSERVING THE ROTORS WITH THE NAKED EYE. ANY ROTOR WITH WORKING BRAKES WILL NOT HAVE RUST ACCUMULATE ON IT. SOMEONE NEEDS TO CHECK THIS OUT TO SEE IF THIS IS A PROBLEM WITH ALL DODGE DARTS OR JUST MY CAR.. I WILL AWAIT YOUR REPLY. THANK YOU FOR YOUR ATTENTION TO THIS SAFTEY ISSUE. *TR

ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS, WORSE WHEN IT IS HOT OUTSIDE, THE CLUTCH PEDAL WILL BE SOFT AND NOT COME UP OFF THE FLOOR. WHEN THE CLUTCH IS SOFT, I AM NOT ABLE TO SHIFT IN OR OUT OF GEAR. IF THE ENGINE IS ON AND IN GEAR, YOU CANNOT PUMP THE CLUTCH UNTIL THE VEHICLE IS OFF, OR IF YOU MANAGE TO GET IT INTO NEUTRAL. AS I PREFER TO PARK THE VEHICLE IN GEAR, WHEN THE CLUTCH GOES SOFT, IT MAKES IT DIFFICULT, IF NOT IMPOSSIBLE, TO REMOVE THE SHIFTER FROM GEAR TO PREVENT THE CAR FROM MOVING AND HITTING AN OBJECT. I HAVE ALMOST HIT A CONCRETE PILLAR AND DRIVEN THROUGH MY GARAGE WHEN THIS HAPPENS. I GET THE FEELING THE CLUTCH IS NOT FULLY DISENGAGED, DESPITE THE PEDAL STUCK ON THE FLOOR. WITHOUT PARKING IN GEAR, I RUN THE RISK OF THE CAR ROLLING AWAY IF THE PARKING BRAKE FAILS. THERE HAVE BEEN NO LEAKS AND THE DEALER HAS BEEN UNABLE TO LOCATE THE PROBLEM. *TR