2012 Dodge Dart

I PURCHASED MY 2013 DODGE DART ON AUGUST 9, 2013 FROM FEDERICO CHRYSLER DODGE JEEP IN WOOD RIVER IL. WITHIN 4 MOS ON DECEMBER 11, 2013, I HAD MY CAR IN THE SHOP BECAUSE MY MIDDLE CONSOLE WAS INOP. AFTER CHECKING IT THEY DETERMINED THE CONSOLE NEEDED REPLACING. TWO MONTHS LATER ON FEBRUARY 11, 2014 I HAD MY CAR IN A SECOND TIME FOR MIDDLE CONSOLE. THIS TIME THEY INSTALLED AN INTEGRATED STACK. THEN, 9 MOS LATER ON NOVEMBER 21, 2014 A THIRD TIME I HAD MY CAR IN AGAIN FOR MIDDLE CONSOLE NOT OPERATING PROPERLY. THIS WAS MY FIRST CONTACT TO DODGE ABOUT THIS ISSUE AND WAS ASSIGNED A CUSTOMER CARE MANAGER. I ASKED IF MY CAR WOULD BE CONSIDERED FOR LEMON LAW AND WAS TOLD CHRYSLER WAS INTERSTED IN BUYING MY CAR BACK AND WAS GIVEN A MOPAR WARRANTY IN DEDUCTIBLE OF $100 AND AT TIME CAR HAD OVER 34,000 AND WARRANTY EXPIRES AT 60,000. THEN JUST THIS PAST APRIL 2ND OF 2015 I HAD MY CAR IN SHOP AT CASSENS AND SONS IN EDWARDSVILLE, IL AGAIN BECAUSE MIDDLE CONSOLE WAS NOT OPERATING PROPERLY. THEY DOWNLOADED AN UPDATE PER STAR. I WAS RESPONSIBLE FOR $100 DEDUCTIBLE. I THEN WENT ON A TRIP TO NEW ORLEANS, LA AND WHILE ON MY TRIP THE MIDDLE CONSOLE WAS NOT OPERATING PROPERLY. I CONTACTED CHRYSLER AGAIN WAS ASSIGNED A CASE MANAGER AND WAS TOLD THAT THEY WOULD GET TO THE BOTTOM OF THE ISSUE. SO, I TOOK MY CAR IN ON APRIL 29TH THE SOONEST I COULD GET IT IN AND AFTER 8 HOURS AT SERVICE WAS CALLED AND TOLD THAT STAR COULDN'T FIGURE OUT WHY IT WAS HAPPENING AND SINCE THEY COULDN'T DUPLICATE PROBLEM NOT TO REPLACE ANY NEW PARTS. AFTER HEARING THIS NEWS I WAS CALLED AND JOHN CUSTOMER CARE MANAGER TOLD ME THAT CHRYSLER WOULDN'T INIATATE THE LEMON LAW THAT I WOULD TO DO SO.

THE HORN FAILS TO HONK QUICKLY AND RELIABLY WHEN THE STEERING WHEEL HORN SWITCH IS PRESSED. TO EXPLAIN WHAT THIS IS LIKE, WHEN YOU WANT TO "DOUBLE TAP" THE HORN TO SIGNIFY TO A FRIEND IN A PARKING LOT, OR AS OFTEN HAPPENS WHEN I'M DRIVING TO SIGNAL TO ANOTHER DRIVER A "DOUBLE QUICK HONK" OF CONCERN. IF THE HORN SOUNDS, ITS EITHER A SINGLE SHORT BLAST OR EXTRA LONG BLAST. THE CAUSE OF THIS, IS THAT THE HORN SWITCH GOES TO ONE DBUS CONTROLLER THAT MUST CYCLE THROUGH THE INPUTS, ONCE THIS FIRST CONTROLLER SEES THE HORN SWITCH ACTIVE *IT* THEN SENDS A SIGNAL ON TO ANOTHER CONTROL MODULE, THIS ONE TOO OPERATES ON A DATABUS/SCAN TYPE SYSTEM, AND SO HAS TO CYCLE THROUGH ITS INPUTS UNTIL IT HAPPENS UPON THE "HORN SWITCH ACTIVE" SIGNAL, AND THEN THE SECOND MODULE ACTIVATES THE HORN RELAY TO SEND CURRENT TO THE HORN. BECAUSE BOTH DATABUSS SCANS ARE SO SLOW, IT EITHER MISSES THE HORN PRESS INITIALLY, OR WHEN IT PICKS UP ON THE HORN SWITCH PRESS, IT FAILS TO SEE THE SWITCH HAS BEEN RELEASED FOR UNTIL THE 1ST MODULE HAS CYCLED BACK TO THE INPUT, .. AND AGAIN THE SAME HAPPENS WITH THE 2ND MODULE. IN THREE CASES NOW, ITS CAUSED ROAD RAGE, WHEN THE OTHER DRIVER THOUGH I WAS "LAYING ON" THE HORN, WHEN ALL I ATTEMPTED WAS A DOUBLE TAP, BECAUSE THEY WERE ENCROACHING ON MY LANE AS I WAS PASSING AND WANTED TO MAKE SURE THEY DIDN'T HIT ME. THE HORN IS AN INSTRUMENT FOR WARNING, AND ITS OBVIOUS WHEN SOMEONE ATTEMPTS TO PISS SOMEONE ELSE OFF BY HOLDING DOWN ON THE HORN SWITCH .. WHERE A DOUBLE TAP IS USUALLY TAKEN AS A CAUTIONARY ALERT, AND FOR THE HORN NOT TO FUNCTION RELIABLY EVERY TIME AND WITH THE SPEED THAT A HUMAN CAN PRESS THE HORN SWITCH, IS AN ABSOLUTE FAILURE ON DODGE'S PART TO HAVE A SAFETY DEVICE OPERATING PROPERLY. THIS HAPPENS EVERY DAY, ALL THE TIME, AND I'M TOLD BY OTHERS, THAT ITS LIKE THIS NOW ACROSS ALL OF DODGE'S FLEET, THIS IS A DESIGN FLAW AND SHOULD BE REPAIRED!

CLUTCH PEDAL DEPRESSED AND WOULD NOT RETURN TO NORMAL POSITION. PRESSING DOWN ON CLUTCH PEDAL WOULD NOT DISENGAGE THE CLUTCH FROM THE FLYWHEEL SO CONTINUED TO ATTEMPT TO MOVE FORWARD REQUIRING FOOT MORE STRONGLY ON THE BRAKES. THIS WASN'T THE ONLY TIME, AND SEEMS TO OCCUR AFTER THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN SITTING A FEW HOURS. ITS GETTING FREQUENT ENOUGH THAT I'M GOING TO TRY TO TRADE THE VEHICLE IN. I DON'T TRUST CHRYSLER/DODGE PRODUCTS ANY MORE AND THEIR QUALITY IS GOING DOWN HILL WITH THEIR DRIVE BY WIRE VEHICLES. FOR THE RECORD, 90% OF MY MILEAGE IS ALL HIGHWAY AND I DON'T "POP" THE CLUTCH TO PEAL OUT AT STOP LIGHTS AND THE LIKE. SEARCHES OF THE INTERNET ARE FINDING MORE AND MORE POSTS WITH CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS.

I WENT TO GET IN MY CAR TO GO TO WORK AND WHEN I STARTED MY CAR THE CLUTCH PEDAL WENT TO THE FLOOR AND WOULD NOT COME BACK UP. THE VEHICLE GOT STUCK IN FIRST GEAR UNTILL I MANUALLY BENT DOWN AND PULLED THE CLUTCH PEDAL UP AND TURNED THE CAR OFF SEVERAL TIMES. WHEN I SOPKE TO DODGE THEY ACTED LIKE THEY HAD NEVER HEARD OF THIS ISSUE (WHICH I KNOW IS NOT TRUE FROM VARIOUS FORUMS AND COMPLAINTS IVE SEEN). NOW I AM WORRIED ABOUT THE SAFTEY OF THE CAR BECASUE IF THIS HAPPENS WHILE IM ON THE ROAD AND NOT PARKED I OR SOMEONE COULD GET SERIOUSLY INJURED. THE DODGE DEALER I SPOKE WITH SAID TO FIX THE ISSUE I WOULD HAVE TO REPLACE THE MASTER CYLINDER, SLAVE CYLINDER, AND REPLACE THE CLUTCH. I DONT FEEL I SHOULD HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THIS THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL ISSUED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 45 MPH, THE BRAKES SOUNDED AS IF AIR WERE PRESENT. THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT STOP WHEN THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO STATED THAT THE BRAKE BOOSTER FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 39,000.

PLACING SUN GUARD UP ON THE DASH. WHEN FLIPPING DOWN THE SUN VISORS TO HOLD THE SUN GUARD IN PLACE, THE PASSENGER SIDE VISOR BROKE AND DROPPED RIGHT OUT OF THE ROOF AND DANGLING BY WIRING HARNESS. DUE TO THE RANDOM BROKEN COMPONENT, THE VISOR CANNOT BE SAFELY UP AND IS VISIBLE DISTRACTION TO THE DRIVER WHEN CHECKING THE PASSENGER SIDE BLIND SPOT. *TR

THE BRAKE SYSTEM SHUT DOWN AT 50 MPH, I FEARED FOR MY LIFE IT IS ONE OF THE SCARIEST THINGS I HAVE EVER DEALT WITH, I AM LUCKY I AM ABLE TO WRITE THIS LETTER TO YOU. THE PROBLEM ACCORDING TO DAYTON ANDREWS IS THAT THE MASTER CYLINDER FLUID LEAKED INTO THE BRAKE BOOSTER, WHICH EVENTUALLY NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. I WAS TOLD MY DODGE WARRANTY EXPIRED AT 36,000 YET THERE WAS 36,920 ON THE CAR. THIS WAS MOST DEFINITELY A RECALL OR AN ISSUE THAT SHOULD HAVE BEEN COVERED UNDER THE DODGE WARRANTY. NO NORMAL CAR AT 36,920 HAS THAT HAPPEN UNTIL THERE WAS INITIAL PROBLEMS WITH THE CAR. ....UPDATED 06/15/16 *BF *TR UPDATED 10/11/2017*CN

AS I WAS APPROACHING A TRAFFIC SIGNAL, MY CAR LOST POWER AND DID A HALF SHUT OFF (LOST POWER ITEMS, BUT DID NOT ACTUALLY LOCK THE STEERING OUT AS IF THE CAR WAS IN PARK). I WAS STILL MOVING AND WAS DOING APPROX. 20-25 MPH WHEN THIS HAPPENED. MY POWER STEERING, BRAKES, ETC WERE ALL LOST AND THERE WAS AN OVERWHELMING SOUND COMING FROM THE STEREO SYSTEM (SOUNDED LIKE A BOMB GOING OFF IN THE CAR.). I WAS ABLE TO GET THE CAR STOPPED AND PULLED OVER TO A TURN LANE THAT WAS NOT IN USE WITHOUT GETTING HIT. ONCE I GOT THE CAR STOPPED, IT STARTED BACK UP AND I WAS ABLE TO TAKE THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER. THE DEALER HAS NOT BEEN ABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM. THIS IS NOT MY FIRST ISSUE WITH THE CAR. IT ALSO HAS HAD 'SERVICE TRANSMISSION' ERRORS AND GAVE US NUMEROUS ISSUES ON CHRISTMAS DAY AS IT WOULD NOT START WHEN WE WERE HEADED HOME. EACH TIME, THE DEALERSHIP WAS NOTIFIED AND THEY HAD THE CAR FOR 92 DAYS WHILE THEY REWIRED THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. THESE CARS ARE NOT SAFE, EVEN AFTER HAVING THE ELECTRICAL REWIRED, THE CAR IS STILL SENDING ERROR MESSAGES AND NOW SHUTTING DOWN WHILE DRIVING IT. THESE NEED TO BE RECALLED. *TR

WHEN WE ARE DRIVING THE CAR, IT WILL START TO SHUDDER WHEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND WITHIN A MINUTE THE ABS SYSTEM WILL TURN ON. WHEN THE ABS SYSTEM TURNS ON, YOU CAN ACTUALLY FEEL THE BRAKING TRYING TO STOP THE CAR. THIS HAS HAPPENED AT ALL DIFFERENT SPEEDS, FROM 20 TO 30 MPH UP TO HIGHWAY SPEEDS AT 70 MPH. YOU CANNOT SHUT OF THE ABS SYSTEM WITH THE SAFETY SWITCH WHEN IT TURNS ITSELF ON. WE HAVE PULLED OVER, TURNED THE ENGINE OFF AND RESTARTED THE CAR. THIS DOES NOT ALWAYS SEEM TO WORK. WE HAVE TURNED OFF THE ABS SYSTEM WHEN WE HAVE STARTED THE CAR, BUT THE COMPUTER IN THE ENGINE WILL OVERRIDE THIS AND HAS TURNED IT BACK ON. WHEN THAT HAPPENS, IT STARTS TO TRY BRAKING AGAIN WHILE WE ARE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. WE HAVE HAD THE CAR BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP SEVERAL TIMES TRYING TO GET THIS RESOLVED, BUT THEY HAVE NOT BEEN SUCCESSFUL IN SOLVING THIS PROBLEM. THE DEALERSHIP HAS CALLED CHRYSLER TO FIND OUT WHAT TO DO ABOUT THIS PROBLEM. THEY WERE TOLD TO CHANGE THE IGNITION COIL POWER PACK, WHICH THEY DID. WHEN THE CAR WAS RETURNED TO US, IT STARTED THIS SAME PROBLEM AGAIN. THE LAST TIME WE TOOK IT IN (APRIL 2015) THE DEALERSHIP KEPT IT FOR TWO WEEKS AND WAS UNABLE TO RECREATE THE PROBLEM. SINCE THAT TIME IT HAS DONE THIS TO US TWICE, BUT BEFORE WE COULD GET IT TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR REPAIR, IT CORRECTED ITSELF. HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM? *TR

I ALWAYS LET MY CAR WARM UP, ESPECIALLY WHEN IT'S COLD. THE WEATHER STARTED TO GET BETTER AND TWICE I STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT AND THE CAR ALMOST STALLED. I HAD TO PUT THE CAR IN NEUTRAL AND PUMP THE GAS TO STOP IT FROM STALLING COMPLETELY. I KNOW IT'S NOT THE GAS BECAUSE IT HAPPENED WITHIN TWO DIFFERENT TIME PERIODS. AT THE TIME THE TEMP WAS IN THE LOW 30'S. I ALSO NOTICE WHEN IT'S VERY COLD THE CAR MAKES A SCREECH WHEN IT'S STARTED. ALTHOUGH THERE IS A POWER TRAIN RECALL (N32) MY VIN HAS NOT BEEN ADDRESSED. I DO NOT WANT TO DRIVE DOWN THE STREET AND STALL WITH MY TWO-YEAR-OLD IN IT. *TR