2012 Dodge Dart

VEHICLE "BUCKING" BETWEEN 1500 AND 2000 RPM. PROBLEM MULTIPLE PEOPLE ARE EXPERIENCING. SEEMS TO BE EITHER CLOGGED FUEL FILTERS, FUEL PUMP, SPARK PLUGS, OR IGNITION COILS WITH THE LAST TWO BEING THE PRIMARY. CONTINUOUS ISSUE FOR OVER A YEAR. TOOK TO DODGE. SAID IT WAS FIXED, BUT PROBLEM CONTINUED. THEY WOULD NO LONGER LOOK INTO ISSUE BECAUSE VEHICLE HIT 100,000 MILES.

CAR RECENTLY DIED. SHOWED SIGNS OF A BAD ALTERNATOR- LIGHTS, SENSORS, RADIO SHUT DOWN, POWER STEERING WENT OUT. REPLACED THE ALTERNATOR AND THE BATTERY. DROVE FINE FOR A FEW WEEKS AND ONCE AGAIN THE SAME THING HAPPENED. I AM NOW ON ALTERNATOR FOUR AND BATTERY NUMBER THREE. HAD THE NEW ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY PUT ON, STARTED THE CAR AND THE BATTERY LIGHT COME ON. HAD THE BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR TESTED, BOTH PASSED AS LONG AS RADIO AND HEAT WAS NOT ON. DROVE THE CAR FOR ABOUT 30 MINUTES AND THE CAR DIED AGAIN LIKE THE ALTERNATOR WAS BAD EXCEPT IT'S NOT BECAUSE IT WAS TESTED. DEALERSHIP WAS OF ZERO HELP AND STILL CAN NOT FIGURE OUT THE ISSUE. THIS CAR IS A COMPLETE HAZARD WHILE DRIVING DUE TO IT DYING IN TRAFFIC.

I PURCHASED THE CAR JULY 2017 AND HAS BEEN AT THE DEALER 5 TIMES DUE TO PROBLEMS. I HAD A REOCCURRING ISSUE WITH THE BATTERY LIGHT COMING UP, THE DEALER FOUND NO ISSUES WITH THE BATTERY. MARCH 2018 THE BATTERY SIGN LIT UP FOLLOWED BY A SLEW OF OTHER SIGNALS, INCLUDING A POWER STEERING LOCK SIGNAL AND THE CAR STARTED SHAKING. I WAS DRIVING WHEN THIS HAPPENED, THEN THE POWER STEERING LOCKED. I WAS ABLE TO PULL THE STEERING WHEEL HARD ENOUGH AND LUCKILY FOUND A PARKING LOT WHERE I COULD PARK THE PARK SINCE I WAS IN A HEAVILY TRANSITED AREA. ATTACHED IS A PICTURE I TOOK AFTER I WAS ABLE TO SAFELY PARK THE CAR. THE CAR WAS TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY FOUND NO ISSUES WITH THE CAR, I HAD TO PAY $250+ FOR THIS. NOVEMBER 2018, THE BLUETOOTH DOES NOT CONNECT, THE ODOMETER IS BLINKING CONTINUOUSLY AND THE CAR SHAKES WHEN AT A STOP. TURNS OUT TO BE THAT THE BLUETOOTH CONSOLE NEEDED TO BE CHANGED ($900+ COST), A TUNE UP WAS NEEDED 'BADLY' ($400+) AND THERE WAS BELIEVED TO BE A PROBLEM WITH A PIECE OF THE TRANSMISSION THAT WAS CAUSING THE CAR TO SHAKE. THE POWERTRAIN WARRANTY WOULD COVER THE COST OF THIS LAST ISSUE IF IT WAS FOUND TO BE THAT THIS WAS THE PROBLEM. IF IT WAS FOUND THAT THE TRANSMISSION PART WAS NOT CAUSING THE SHAKING, WE WOULD NEED TO COVER THE $600+ COST FOR THE LABOR. WE ARE IN PROCESS OF DEALING THIS MATTER WITH A MANAGER AT THE DEALERSHIP, SINCE WE DO NOT WANT TO KEEP THIS CAR.

I PURCHASED THE CAR JULY 2017 AND HAS BEEN AT THE DEALER 5 TIMES DUE TO PROBLEMS. I HAD A REOCCURRING ISSUE WITH THE BATTERY LIGHT COMING UP, THE DEALER FOUND NO ISSUES WITH THE BATTERY. MARCH 2018 THE BATTERY SIGN LIT UP FOLLOWED BY A SLEW OF OTHER SIGNALS, INCLUDING A POWER STEERING LOCK SIGNAL, THE CAR STARTED SHAKING AND THE POWER STEERING LOCKED. I WAS AT THE LIGHT MAKING A LEFT WHEN THIS HAPPENED. I WAS ABLE TO PULL THE STEERING WHEEL HARD ENOUGH TO MAKE THE LEFT AND LUCKILY FOUND A PARKING LOT WHERE I COULD PARK SINCE I WAS IN A HEAVILY TRANSITED AREA. ATTACHED IS A PICTURE I TOOK AFTER I WAS ABLE TO SAFELY PARK THE CAR. THE CAR WAS TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY FOUND NO ISSUES WITH THE CAR, I HAD TO PAY $250+ FOR THIS. NOVEMBER 2018, THE BLUETOOTH DOES NOT CONNECT, THE ODOMETER IS BLINKING CONTINUOUSLY AND THE CAR SHAKES WHEN AT A STOP. THE DEALERSHIP HAS HAD THE CAR FOR THREE WEEKS AND TURNS OUT TO BE THAT THE BLUETOOTH CONSOLE NEEDED TO BE CHANGED ($900+ COST), A TUNE UP WAS NEEDED 'BADLY' ($400+) AND THERE WAS BELIEVED TO BE A PROBLEM WITH A PIECE OF THE TRANSMISSION THAT WAS CAUSING THE CAR TO SHAKE. THE POWERTRAIN WARRANTY WOULD COVER THE COST OF THIS LAST ISSUE IF IT WAS FOUND TO BE THAT THIS WAS THE PROBLEM. IF IT WAS FOUND THAT THE TRANSMISSION PART WAS NOT CAUSING THE SHAKING, WE WOULD NEED TO COVER THE $600+ COST FOR THE LABOR. WE ARE IN PROCESS OF DEALING THIS MATTER WITH A MANAGER AT THE DEALERSHIP, SINCE WE DO NOT WANT TO KEEP THIS CAR.

CAR WOULDN'T START THEN WHEN IT DID THE GEAR INDICATOR LIGHTS TURNED RED AND SHIFTS REALLY HARD THEN YOU CAN SHUT CAR OFF AND WIGGLE THE SHIFTER AND IT WILL START BACK UP AND RUN FINE FOR A WHILE THEN WHEN SITTING AT A LIGHT IT MIGHT GO BACK TO THE RED LIGHTS AND START SHIFTING HARD AGAIN WAS TOLD ITS THE TCM (TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE) YOU REALLY NEVER KNOW WHEN ITS GOING TO DO THIS HAS DONE IT IN THE MIDDLE OF TURNS WHEN IT STARTS OR JUST SITTING IN PLACE

SHIFTING STICK IS STUCK, THE CAR APPEARS TO BE STUCK IN REVERSE BUT ACTUALLY IS STUCK IN NEUTRAL, THE KEY IS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND CAR WON'T TURN ON. DAY PRIOR TO THIS CAR WAS PARK ALL DAY, LATER IN THE EVENING IT WAS DRIVEN FOR ABOUT 3-5 MILES AND PARKED WITHOUT AN ISSUE. NOTHING WAS OUT OF THE ORDINARY UNTIL THE NEXT DAY WHEN I TRIED TO DRIVE IT AGAIN.