2012 Dodge Dart

AT 40,000 MILES AFTER 3 YRS 5 MONTHS THE CAR HAD A STRONG FUEL ODOR. I REALIZED THE GAS IS LEAKING FROM THE TOP OF THE FUEL PUMP. IT TURNED OUT THE PLASTIC HOUSE OF THE FUEL PUMP WAS BROKEN AT THE CONNECTOR AND THE GAS WAS LEAKING WHILE THE SYSTEM WAS UNDER PRESSURE. WHICH MEANS WHENEVER THE CAR IS RUNNING AND THE IGNITION IS ON, THE FUEL IS LEAKING. THE SYSTEM PRESSURE IS 58 PSI (+- 5 PSI) SO YOU CAN LOSE A LOTS OF FUEL IN A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME. ON THE ATTACHED PICTURE THE 2 STRAIGHT LINE IS NOT A CRACK. IT IS THE FUEL COMING OUT WITH A HIGH PRESSURE. DEFECTIVE PART NUMBER: 68084383AD (DODGE) REPLACEMENT PART NUMBER: 68166589AC (DODGE) MY CAR HAS NEVER HAD ANY ACCIDENT NOR A FENDER BENDER. IT IS IMMACULATE. DODGE SHOULD EVALUATE THE FREQUENCY OF THIS PROBLEM AND ANNOUNCE A RECALL. I CONSIDER THIS AS A VERY SERIOUS SAFETY AND FIRE HAZARD.

MY RADIO WITH THE TOUCHSCREEN HAS BEEN REPLACED 4 TIMES I BELIEVE DUE TO AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE-CONTINUED TO FLICKER ON AND OFF. THE VISOR FELL OFF, NOW THERE ARE NO INTERIOR LIGHTS. BRAKE RECALL REPAIR DONE, BUT NOW ENGINE LIGHT ON, STEERING WHEEL LOCKED UP WHILE IN REVERSE, ALL SYSTEM LIGHTS CAME ON LOOKING LIKE FAILURE. CAR WAS ACCELERATING ON ITS OWN, BUT WHEN PUTTING FOOT ON GAS IT WOULD HAVE NO EFFECT. NOW THE CAR DOES NOT START OR EVEN TURN OVER INCLUDING WHEN JUMP STARTED. I HAVE DOCUMENTATION OF THE RADIO REPAIR AND BRAKE RECALL AND HAVE VIDEOS ON MY PHONE OF THE ACCELERATION WITH FOOT ON THE BRAKE.

VEHICLE STALLED OUT IN COLD WEATHER WHILE I WAS DRIVING. CAR BEGIN TO ROLL BACK BECAUSE I WAS ON TRAVELING ON A HILL. I HAD TO MENUVER VEHICLE DOWN HILL. AFTER ABOUT A MINUTE CAR STARTED,. VEHICLE EMERGENCY BRAKE WILL NOT HOLD VEHICLE ON ANY KIND OF GRADED SURFACE. I ONCE PARTED IN FRIENDS DRIVE PULLED UP EMERGENCY ALL THE WAY UP TURN CAR OFF. WENT TO VISIT FRIEND A FEW MINUTE AND WHEN CAME OUT THE HOUSE VEHICLE WAS ROLLING BACKWARDS. I OPEN THE JUMPED IN CAR MEANWHILE CAR WAS ALREADY IN STREET WITH PARTED CARS AND MOVING TRAFFIC. I WAS ABLE TO JUMP IN USE FOOT BRAKE TO STOP VEHICLE WITHOUT INSIDENT( TOOK TO DEALER FOR REPAIRED 3 TIMES IN TWO YEARS, JUST REPAIRED LAST WEEK PHASE 1 ENGINE FAILURE TWICE WITHIN FIRST YEAR AND HALF. CAR SPUTTER AND JERKED DROVE ROUGH. TOOK TO DEALER REPAIR TWICE ON DIFFERENT OCCASIONS. DURING REPAIR DEALER KEPT VEHICLE 3 WEEKS ON REPAIR AND OVER A WEEK ON THE OTHER. DEALER REASON FOR DELAY WAS WAITING ON PART. I AM VERY IN SATISFIED WITH VEHICLE QUALITY AND PERFORMANCE IN THE THREE YEARS I HAD IT I'M DRIVING VEHICLE LESS AND LESS BECAUSE OF QUALITY ISSUES AND RELIABILITY ISSUE MAKES ME AND MY FAMILY FEEL UNSAFE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 DODGE DART. THE CONTACT SMELLED A STRONG ODOR OF FUEL AND ENGINE OIL. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 15V800000 (SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC). THE CONTACT DID NOT RECEIVE NOTIFICATION OF THE RECALL. THE VEHICLE WAS TO BE SCHEDULED FOR AN APPOINTMENT, BUT THE PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE TO RECEIVE THE REPAIR. THE MANUFACTURER WAS UNABLE TO DETERMINE WHEN THE PARTS WOULD BE SUPPLIED TO THE DEALER. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS NOT AVAILABLE. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE. UPDATED 03/18/16*LJ *JS

I PURCHASED A NEW DART, 2013 LIMITED 1.4 TURBO (MANUAL) AND WHEN I SAY NEW, IT HAD TO BE BUILT BECAUSE THERE WERE'T ANY ON THE LOTS YET. I ALWAYS FELT THE CAR LACKED POWER BUT ASSUMED IT WAS JUST THE WAY THE CAR WAS. GETTING OUT OF 1ST GEAR WAS REALLY TOUGH. AROUND 6K, AFTER A LONG ROAD TRIP, I STARTED TO HEAR A GRINDING NOISE WHEN CUTTING THE WHEEL AND THROTTLING IN 1ST GEAR OR REVERSE, BASICALLY PARALLEL PARKING. I BROUGHT THE CAR TO THE DEALER FOR ITS 1ST MAJOR TUNE UP AND MENTIONED IT AND THEY SAID THE DIDN'T HEAR THE NOISE ( I ALSO MENTIONED THE AIRBAG LIGHT WOULD NOT GO AWAY) THE AIR BAG LIGHT WAS GONE BUT SOON TO RETURN. AT 9K, I BROUGHT THE CAR IN AGAIN FOR THE SAME ISSUES! AIR BAG LIGHT GONE (SOON TO RETURN) BUT THEY SAID THEY DIDN'T HEAR THE NOISE. AT 19K I WAS FUMING AND GOT THEM TO GO ON A TEST DRIVE WITH ME AND THEY HEARD THEY NOISE! THEY TRIED TO SAY IT WAS THE CA INTAKE I PUT IN, BUT I ASSURED THEM IT WASN'T AND GAVE THEM THE OEM PART TO PROVE THEM WRONG. LOW AND BEHOLD AFTER A WEEK THEY COME BACK WITH "CLUTCH BEARINGS"! I GOT THE CAR BACK AND IT FEELS LIKE A- BRAND NEW CAR!! IT'S AMAZING! IT HAS POWER, PICK UP, THE CLUTCH IS MUCH EASIER TO WORK AND NO NOISE! I WAS STARTLED BY THE POWER! THIS IS THE CAR I THOUGHT I WAS BUYING. I HAVE NO IDEA HOW MUCH GAS ECONOMY I'VE WASTED AFTER 19K, BUT I'M JUST GLAD TO FINALLY HAVE THIS ISSUE RESOLVED! I REALLY HOPE THIS HELPS THOSE OUT THERE SO IF YOU HAVE A MANUAL SHIFT AND NO POWER/PICK-UP OUT OF 1ST, INSIST THEY CHECK THE CLUTCH BEARINGS! NOW LET'S HOPE THE AIRBAG LIGHT DOESN'T COME BACK ON. *TR

THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM CUTS OUT SEVERAL TIMES WHEN DRIVING. AT NIGHT IT IS BAD BECAUSE ALL THE INSIDE LIGHT GO OUT AND YOU CAN TELL YOUR SPEED OR ANYTHING UNTIL IT TURNS BACK ON. THE ENGINE AND FUEL ARE ONE ISSUE; AFTER STARTING IT THE EXHAUST HAS A BAD ODOR AND STAYS DURING THE ENTIRE TRAVEL UNTIL IT IS TURNED OFF. THE ENGINE ALSO HESITATES AFTER COMING TO A COMPLETE STOP. *JS

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM INSIDE CAR SHUTS OFF AND TURNS BACK ON REPEATEDLY, EVEN IF I AM ONLY GOING 2 MILES DOWN THE ROAD. THE FUEL AND ENGINE TIE TOGETHER AS ONE; IMMEDIATELY AFTER STARTING THE VEHICLE THE EXHAUST LETS OUT A VERY STRONG ODOR THAT CONTINUE'S FOR THE ENTIRE DURATION OF ANY TRIP. THEN WHEN ACCELERATING USING AUTOMATIC DRIVE OR EVEN THE DRY CLUTCH THE EXHAUST MAKES A LOUD RATTLING NOISE AS IT SWITCHES FROM GEAR TO GEAR. ALSO, DURING DRIVING THE ENGINE OR TRANSMISSION FEELS LIKE IT IS SLIPPING AND HAS HESITATION WHEN YOU ACCELERATE AFTER STOPPING COMPLETELY. *JS