2007 Dodge Caliber

I WAS DRIVING AND MY PASSENGER LOW-BEAM HEADLIGHT WENT OUT, SO I WENT AND BOUGHT A NEW HEADLIGHT, UPON INSTALLING IT, IT STILL DIDN'T WORK, BUT THE HIGH BEAM DID. TOOK IT TO DODGE TO SEE IF THEY COULD FIGURE IT OUT AND WAS TOLD IT'S A KNOWN ISSUE WITH CALIBERS AND CERTAIN JEEPS, THE TIPM WENT BAD ON IT AND IT WOULD BE ALMOST $1000 TO REPAIR IT, FOR A KNOWN ISSUE THAT DODGE KNOWS ABOUT BUT HASN'T BEEN RECALLED! 2 WEEKS LATER, MY HIGHBEAM EVEN WENT OUT ON THE PASSENGER SIDE, SO NOW THE CAR IS SITTING PARKED, UNABLE TO DRIVE WITH IMPROPER LIGHTING & TIPM PROBLEMS! *TR

VEHICLE ROLLED TO A STOP ALONG THE ROAD. WAS UNABLE TO RESTART. I REMOVED THE REAR SEAT TO INSPECT THE FUEL PUMP AND CONNECTIONS. BOTH THE TOP OF THE PLASTIC FUEL PUMP AND IT'S PLASTIC CONNECTION WAS MELTED FROM AN ELECTRICAL MELT DOWN, JUST MILLIMETERS FROM THE FULL GAS TANK. THIS COULD'VE RESULT IN AN EXPLOSION AND FATALITY. APPARENTLY FROM WHAT I'VE BEEN READING ONLINE THIS IS QUITE COMMON WITH THIS MODEL. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE DONE BEFORE THERE IS A FATALITY. *TR

CAR WILL RANDOMLY START SHAKING LIKE THERE IS BARELY ANY POWER. I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR TWICE. NUMEROUS THROTTLE ISSUES THAT NUMEROUS AUTO SERVICE SHOPS WERE NOT ABLE TO FULLY TAKE CARE OF. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS AT A STOP AND THE ACCELERATOR WAS PRESSED, LIGHTLY AND NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD ACCELERATE INAPPROPRIATELY AND KIND OF JERK FORWARD. IN ADDITION, WHEN TURNING AND THE ACCELERATOR IS PRESSED NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD SEEM TO LOSE POWER AND SEEM TO GLIDE INTO THE TURN AND THEN JERK FORWARD. THESE THROTTLE ISSUES WERE NEVER FULLY EXPLAINED OR FIXED. AFTER A WHILE THE CAR DASH STARTED FLASHING A RED ELECTRICAL BOLT AND THE CAR WOULD SHUTTER AND SHAKE AND LOSE ALL POWER. INITIALLY, WHEN THIS OCCURRED I WAS ABLE TO JUST TURN THE CAR OFF AND WAIT AND THEN TURN IT BACK ON AND IT WOULD FUNCTION FOR A WHILE. ALSO, IF THE CAR WAS IDLING AT A STOPLIGHT OR PARKED THE ELECTRICAL BOLT WOULD FLASH AND THE CAR WOULD START TO SHAKE. NOW THE AIR BAG LIGHT IN THE CLUSTER CONSTANTLY TURNS OFF AND ON AND BEEPS WHILE THE CAR IS SHAKING. *TR

NOTICED RUSTED SUBFRAME WITH BIG HOLE. WE KNEW IT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. NO PARTICULAR REASON FOR THE EROSION OTHER THAN THE WAY THE VEHICLE IS DESIGNED. VEHICLE IS ONLY 6-7 YEARS OLD. THIS TYPE OF EROSION IS USUALLY ONLY SEEN ON OLD VINTAGE VEHICLES. A FEW DAYS AGO, WE RAN OVER A HIDDEN POT HOLE AND THE SUBFRAME IS COMPLETELY BROKEN APART. NOW CAR IS COMPLETELY UNSAFE TO DRIVE. THIS CAR WAS POORLY DESIGNED IN THIS AREA. THE COMPANY SHOULD RECALL THE SUBFRAME TO REPLACE AND INSTALL A REROUTING PIECE FOR THE AC TO DRIP ON AND BYPASS DRIPPING ON THE FRAME. *TR

THE VEHICLE HAD NUMEROUS THROTTLE ISSUES AND AIR CONDITIONING ISSUES THAT NUMEROUS AUTO SERVICE SHOPS WERE NOT ABLE TO FULLY TAKE CARE OF. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS AT A STOP AND THE ACCELERATOR WAS PRESSED, LIGHTLY AND NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD ACCELERATE INAPPROPRIATELY AND KIND OF JERK FORWARD. IN ADDITION, WHEN TURNING AND THE ACCELERATOR IS PRESSED NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD SEEM TO LOSE POWER AND SEEM TO GLIDE INTO THE TURN AND THEN JERK FORWARD. THESE THROTTLE ISSUES WERE NEVER FULLY EXPLAINED OR FIXED. AFTER A WHILE THE CAR DASH STARTED FLASHING A RED ELECTRICAL BOLT AND THE CAR WOULD SHUTTER AND SHAKE AND LOSE ALL POWER. INITIALLY, WHEN THIS OCCURRED I WAS ABLE TO JUST TURN THE CAR OFF AND WAIT AND THEN TURN IT BACK ON AND IT WOULD FUNCTION FOR A WHILE. ALSO, IF THE CAR WAS IDLING AT A STOPLIGHT OR PARKED THE ELECTRICAL BOLT WOULD FLASH AND THE CAR WOULD START TO SHAKE. AFTER SOME TIME THE VEHICLE'S LEFT LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT WENT OUT. WHEN REPLACED IT STILL DID NOT WORK. THE VEHICLE'S ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY WERE CHECKED AND FOUND TO BE FUNCTIONAL. WITHIN A WEEK AFTER THIS OCCURRENCE THE VEHICLE COULD NOT BE STARTED WITHOUT A "JUMP" AND EVEN SO WOULD LOSE POWER ONCE PARKED AND COULD NOT BE STARTED AGAIN. I RETURNED THE CAR TO THE AUTO MECHANIC, SPECIFICALLY AN AUTO ELECTRICIAN, AND WAS TOLD IT WAS THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE THAT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED AT A COST OF $700 PLUS LABOR. IN RESPONSE TO THIS I RESEARCHED THE PART AND CAME ACROSS NUMEROUS PEOPLE WITH THE SAME PROBLEM AND THE SAME EVENTUAL DIAGNOSIS. THE CAR HAS BEEN ESSENTIALLY UNDRIVABLE AND UNSAFE. THERE WAS THE CONSTANT WORRY THAT THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEM WOULD HAPPEN WHILE ON THE EXPRESSWAY AND CAUSE VERY UNSAFE CONDITIONS FOR MYSELF AND OTHERS ON THE ROAD. IT IS MY OPINION A RECALL NEEDS TO BE ISSUED FOR THIS PROBLEM. *TR

I HAVE A 2007 CALIBER R/T I'M AT ABOUT 183,000KM. EARLIER THIS WEEK ALL THE LIGHTS IN MY CLUSTER STARTED FLASHING, AND THE CHIMES STARTED SOUNDING. MY CAR WENT INTO WHAT THEY CALL "LIMP" MODE WHERE THE CAR SHUTS DOWN AND THE FASTEST YOU CAN GO IS 60KM/HR ON A FLAT ROADWAY (AND IT HAS TO BUILD UP TO THAT SPEED). I WAS TOLD THAT THE CONNECTIONS TO MY TIPM (TOTAL INTEGRATED POWER MODULE) HAD BECOME CORRODED AND THAT I WOULD HAVE TO HAVE IT REPLACED ($1000 FOR THE PART, THEN THERE'S LABOUR ON TOP OF THAT). ON TOP OF THAT I WAS TOLD THAT THEY WOULD HAVE TO CHECK ALL THE WIRING TO ENSURE THAT ALL THE CORROSION WAS TAKEN CARE OF, WHICH WOULD PROBABLY COST A WHOLE BUNCH OF MONEY SEEING AS THERE IS A WHOLE LOT OF WIRING THAT WOULD HAVE TO BE CHECKED. THE SERVICE MANAGER ALSO TOLD ME THAT CHRYSLER/DODGE IS AWARE OF THIS ISSUE AND THAT IT IS ALL DUE TO FAULTY DESIGN. WHY SHOULD I HAVE TO REPLACE SUCH AN INTEGRAL PART AFTER THE LENGTH OF TIME THAT I'VE HAD THE CAR. I COULD UNDERSTAND SOMETHING LIKE A GENERAL WEAR AND TEAR PART GOING, BUT TO HAVE TO FORK OUT OVER $1500 DOLLARS TO REPAIR JUST SEEMS RIDICULOUS. THE TIMP (FUSE BOX) IN THE CALIBERS FAIL FREQUENTLY (THIS IS A SAFETY DESIGN FLAW THAT NEEDS RECALLED) THE COST OF THE TIMP IS NOT CHEAP!!!!!!! *TR