2014 Chevrolet Sonic

My auto started out with a Check Engine Light. I noticed the engine smelled of overheated radiator and coolant smell. Parts were replaced for fix (Hose)...but check engine light continued as well as the overheated coolant smell. The auto was placed for checking on machine for codes for check engine light, but none of codes made sense to Mechanic. Told to bring back for further testing/looks. Brought back several times. No idea what was wrong but last time I was told I needed to leave for extended testing and test driving as gears were not shifting in D struggled engine for me, no acceleration and RPMs raced at times. (Dangerous and unpredictable on highway and in town). Now I turned in for testing to Chev Mechanic, and now am facing a part that was replaced in control of electrical (over $500) and after they repaired that and tested I am told that I have a TOTAL TRANSMISSION REPAIR over $5200 - for a 2014 auto!!! It was in with dealership mechanics a total of 6-7 times. I was informed the electrical controls were confusing the engine reactions. Auto a dealers for $5200 + $500 repairs now 20230702 and problems seen & looked at since March for smell of overheating radiator, fix if hose (wonder if really needed), continued check engine light, refill of radiator fluid, codes checked and did not give correct evaluation. Eventually the transmission needs replaced out, at time that there is RPM revs, no acceleration while driving and gears heard to struggle in engine. Mileage now over 97000. Estimate on mileage, i do not have all documentation before me. Extended Powertrain warranty from dealership started at year 2015!!! Anything older not allowed, so I am told I have to pay the entire bill.

TEMP 45-50 DEGREES, DRIVING IN MODERATE RAIN FOR 20-25 MINUTES, CRUISE CONTROL ON. ACTIVATE HIGH BEAMS, CAR SHIFTS TO 1ST GEAR AT 65 MPH, RPMS JUMP ABOVE 6000, TURN OFF HIGH BEAMS RETURNS TO NORMAL OPERATION. REPEATED 2 MORE TIMES IN NEXT 4 MILES, EVEN AT 25 MPH. WHEN END OF TRIP, SHUT OFF CAR AND COMPLETELY DEAD, NO LIGHTS, NO CRANKING. FOLLOWING MORNING (TODAY) CAR STARTS NORMALLY. WILL REPORT ANY FURTHER FROM MY COMMUTE TODAY, IF WARRANTED

UPON ACCELERATING MY SONIC HAS LACK OF POWER AND GEARS DON'T ENGAGE OR THEY ARE DELAYED WHICH CAUSES ME TO BE VERY UNSAFE FROM ONCOMING TRAFFIC WHEN MY CAR DECIDES TO ENGAGE I CAN THEN CONTINUE DRIVING. I ALSO HAVE A ISSUE WITH THE CAR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM REFUSING TO CHIME WHEN KEYS ARE LEFT IN IGNITION AS A WARNING SOMETIMES I PUT MY HIGH BEAMS ON AND ALL THE LOCKS LOCK AND MY CAR DOES THE REFUSAL TO ENGAGE IN GEAR THING AGAIN AND MY LIGHTS FLICKER MY WHOLE COMPUTER SYSTEM WENT DEAD AND NO ONE CAN FIGURE OUT WHY I ONLY BOUGHT THE CAR 6 MONTHS AGO FOR 12,000 SO I COULD HAVE RELIABILITY AND I SHOULDN'T HAVE TO DEAL WITH THIS OR ANYTHING FOR QUITE SO TIME MY OLD CAR IS SAFER THAN THIS NEW ONE

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2014 CHEVROLET SONIC. WHEN THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO ACCELERATE AND AN ABNORMAL NOISE WAS HEARD. ON A DIFFERENT OCCASION, IT TOOK THE CONTACT THREE ATTEMPTS TO START THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING OR REPAIRS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE THE TRANSMISSION WAS FLUSHED, BUT THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURES AND PROVIDED A CASE NUMBER. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 93,000.

SHIFTER BUTTON HAS CRACKED AND CAUSES THE BUTTON STUCK. THIS ALLOWS THE SHIFTER TO BE MOVED WITHOUT PRESSING THE BUTTON AND ALSO PREVENTS THE KEY FROM BEING REMOVED. THE CAR COULD EASILY ROLL AWAY IF BUMPED DUE TO IMPROPER SHIFT LOCKING. THIS CAN HAPPEN WHEN YOU'RE ALREADY IN PARK OR EVEN IN DRIVE. TONS OF COMPLAINS ONLINE THROUGH FORUMS AND VIDEOS ON YOUTUBE HOW TO REPLACE BUT COST SHOULDN'T BE UP TO OWNERS. FIX THIS CHEVY!

DEALER SOLD ME CAR WITH BALD TIRES LESS THAN 2/32. DEALER SOLD CAR WITH FILTHY RUSTY AND LOOSE PARTS ON MANIFOLD. VALVES. STRUTS. AND TRANS MOUNT. SUSPENSION PIECES WERE BROKEN AND OLD. THE THERMOSTAT WAS PUT IN WRONG AND CAUSED DIVID IN MANIFOLD. BATTERY AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ALSO HAD ISSUES. ALL ISSUES WERE FROM MILE 1 TO 200 OF OWNING CAR.

I BOUGHT THIS CAR USED BACK IN OCTOBER 2017, I'VE HAD OVERHEATING PROBLEMS, THE DEALERSHIP FIXED TWICE UNDER AN EXTENDED WARRANTY THE THIRD TIME I HAD TO FIX MYSELF (THEY SAID MY EXTENDED WARRANTY EXPIRED). I NOTICED MY KEY WOULD GET STUCK IN THE IGNITION AFTER PUTTING THE GEAR IN PARK, I DISCOVERED THE BUTTON ON MY GEAR SHIFT IS CRACKED AND I HAVE TO PULL IT ALL THE WAY PUT TO REMOVE THE KEY. THE LATEST ADVENTURE IS I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY IN THE FAST LANE AT ABOUT 75 MPH WHEN MY CAR MADE A POP NOISE THEN SLIGHTLY JERKED THEN STARTED TO SLOW DOWN. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ALONG WITH THE TRACTION LIGHT, I WAS ABLE TO SAFELY GET OVER TO THE SHOULDER I PARKED AND CUT THE CAR OFF. AFTER A FEW MINUTES I WAS ABLE TO START MY CAR BACK UP AND GET IT TO AN AUTO STORE TO FIND OUT WHY THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON. THE CODES THAT CAME BACK STATED COMMUNICATION WAS LOST WITH THE TCM AND THE TCM INTERNAL TEMPERATURE WAS TOO HIGH. I WAS TOLD THE MOST LIKELY SOLUTION IS FAULTY WIRING AT THE TCM. THIS IS BECOMING A HEADACHE I'M STILL PAYING ON THIS CAR AND DOING MORE REPAIRING THAN SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE

I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE USED IN 2016 FROM A CAR DEALERSHIP. A COUPLE OF MONTHS AGO MY KEY WOULD NOT COME OUT OF THE IGNITION AND I HAD TO WAIT A FEW MINS THEN TRY AGAIN. NEXT TIME IT DID THAT IT TOOK 30 MINS TO REMOVE THE KEY UNTIL FINALLY THE LAST TIME IT WOULD NOT COME OUT PERIOD AND I HAD NO CHOICE BUT TO LEAVE THE VEHICLE AND HAVE IT TOWED TO THE SHOP. I HAD TO REPLACE A PART OF THE SHIFTER. THERE WAS A METAL PIECE RIGHT UNDER THE SHIFTER KNOB THAT FAILED. I HAD AUL INSURANCE VINTAGE NOW AND HAD TO PAY 500,000 DOLLARS FOR THIS REPAIR BECAUSE HE STATED THAT IT WAS NOT COVERED. PERSONALLY I DON'T BELIEVE THAT BUT I HAD NO CHOICE AND PAID TO HAVE IT FIXED. I TOOK THE VEHICLE PRIOR TO THE SHIFTER VISIT TO THE DEALERSHIL TWICE WITH A COMPLAINT OF NOT GETTING ENOUGH POWER WHEN I EXCELERATE AND IT MOVES SLOWLY AND IS AT 10-25 MPH BEFORE IT MOVES TO THE HIGHWAY SPEED OF 55MPH. THEY AGAIN SAID THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING. AGAIN TODAY I EXPERIENCE THE SLOW EXCELERATION AGAIN, SO I AM MAKING A COMPLAINT THIS TIME. THERE IS A ELECTRICAL PROBLEM WITH THIS VEHICLE I 'VE HAD A COUPLE OF ELECTRICAL ISSUES AS WELL AS A REPLACED WATER PUMP. I GOT THIS IN 2016 IT SHOULD NOT HAVE THESE MANY PROBLEMS WITH THIS VEHICLE. I AM ALWAYS STOPPED AT A LIGHT IN THE TURNING LEFT LANE GETTING ON THE HIGHWAY WHEN THIS HAPPEN AND OTHER CARS HAVE ALMOST HIT ME SEVERAL TIMES. I WANTIT TO BE INVESTIGATED AND KNOWN BEFORE I GO BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP AGAIN AND TO BE TOLD THATTHERE S NOTHING WRONG. I SEE THE DASHBOARD LIGHTS DIM QUITE A LOT WHILE I AM DRIVING. AND WHEN IT STALL LIKE THIS THE POWER LIGHTS GET REALLY DIM BUT YOU CAN STILL SEE YOUR MPH ETC. PLEASE HELP ME SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH THIS VEHICLE AND I DON'T WANT TO DIE IN IT.