2008 Chevrolet Equinox

I HAVE PURCHASED A CHEVY EQUINOX 2008 AND THE MESSAGE CENTER FOR THE PAST 3 WEEKS DISPLAYED SERVICE AIR BAG. THERE SEEMS TO BE A ELECTRICAL ISSUE I CAN HEAR STATIC OR SOMETHING COMING FROM THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR EVERY TIME I OPEN AND CLOSE IT. MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE. I ONLY HAVE A 30 DAY WARRANTY. I CHECKED THIS CAR ON AUTO CHECK AND THE MILEAGE WAS EVEN WRONG, WHEN INSPECTED LAST THE MILES WERE 118,000 WHEN I GOT IT IT HAD 115,769 DID THEY ROLL IT BACK. WHAT SITES ARE ACCURATE? I CHECKED AUTOCHECK VIN PRO THE PAST COUPLE YEARS THEY HAVE BEEN COMPLAINING SAME ISSUES AIR BAG SENSOR ETC CHEVY SUCKS!

ELECTRIC DOOR LOCKS DO NOT WORK PROPERLY IN WARM OR HOT WEATHER. YOU CAN HEAR THE ACTUATOR TRYING, BUT IT WILL ONLY "PARTIALLY" UNLOCK THE DOOR OR NOT EVEN BUDGE THE INTERNAL MANUAL LEVER. THINGS WORK FINE WHEN IT IS COLD. THIS IS DEFINITELY RELATED TO HEAT BECAUSE IN THE SPRING AND FALL THIS IS ONLY A PROBLEM WHEN THE SUN SHINES ON THAT SIDE OF THE CAR. FURTHERMORE, IN THE SUMMER THE LOCKS WILL OFTEN WORK AFTER RUNNING THE A/C FOR 30 MINUTES OR SO. I THINK THIS PROBLEM STARTED WHEN THE CAR WAS 2-3 YEARS OLD. WE CAN USE THE KEY TO UNLOCK THE DOORS, AND IF WE USE THE REMOTE FOB FIRST, THE ALARM WON'T SOUND. JUST THE SAME, IT IS AGGRAVATING.

ELECTRICAL - MY COLLEGE AGE DAUGHTER DRIVES THE EQUINOX - THE LOCKS DO NOT LOCK UNLESS SHE PHYSICALLY GOES AROUND AND LOCKS ALL OF THE DOORS. THIS IS A SEVERE SAFETY ISSUE - ESPECIALLY AT NIGHT - NOT SAFE WHEN SHE IS WORKING AND ALONE AND HAVING TO LOCK AND UNLOCK ALL DOORS - ALSO SOMETIMES A MANUAL UNLOCK WILL SET OFF THE CAR ALARM!!! AND SHE HAS TO JUMP IN AND PUT KEY IN IGNITION TO GET IT TO STOP. SO WORRIED. HAD CHEVROLET LOOK AT IT AND THEY SAY ALL 4 DOOR ACTUATORS HAVE TO BE FIXED FOR A COST OF OVER 1200.00. COLLEGE KIDS CANNOT AFFORD THAT AND IT SHOULDN'T HAPPEN ANYWAY. NEED IMMEDIATE HELP WITH THIS. VISIBILITY/WIPER - WINDSHIELD FLUID LEAKING INTO FLOOR ON DRIVER SIDE WHEN WIPER FLUID FILLED. CHEVROLET SAID COST OVER 500.00 TO REPLACE FLUID BOTTLE??? COLLEGE KIDS CANNOT AFFORD THIS AND IT SHOULDN'T BE HAPPENING ANYWAY. SAFETY HAZARD WITH VISIBILITY CONCERNS SINCE BOTTLE EMPTY AT ALL TIMES.

PASSENGER AIR BAG DOES NOT WORK WHEN SOMEONE IS IN FRONT PASSENGER SEAT. DRIVERS WINDOW & LOCK STOPPED WORKING(HAS BEEN REPAIRED). SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL & SERVICE STABILITRAK LIGHTS ARE ON. EGR VALVE CODE, TORQUE CONVERTER CODE, EVAP SYSTEM CODE, AND ABS CODE. THERE IS ALSO A SQUEEKING NOISE FROM THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE WHEEL. I TAKE VERY GOOD CARE OF MY CAR & HAS LESS THAN 77K MILES. ALSO LIKE OTHERS HAVE COMPLAINED I TOO GET HURT ON THE BACK OF MY LEG WHEN GETTING OUT OF THE PASSENGER SEAT.

WHERE DO I BEGIN?!?!!?! AFTER MULTIPLE FAILED ATTEMPTS OF THE DEALER TRYING TO FIX THE TIRE PRESSURE MONITOR SYSTEM/STABILITRACK LIGHTS ARE STILL ON AND STILL DING! TIRES ARE DOUBLE CHECKED REGULARLY. PASSENGER AIR BAG ONLY COMES ON WHEN IT WANTS TO, WEATHER THE PERSON WEIGHS 70LBS OR 250LBS. THE KEY SOMETIMES GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION WON'T TURN OR COME OUT, I USUALLY GIVE UP FIGHTING IT AND FORGET ABOUT IT FOR AWHILE THEN IT MAGICALLY WORKS. NONE OF THE DOORS WILL LOCK OR UNLOCK WITH THE FOB OR ELECTRIC BUTTON INSIDE, KEY FOB ONLY SETS THE ALARM ON/OFF, SO I HAVE TO MANUALLY LOCK AND UNLOCK ALL THE DOORS. WHICH IS A A PAIN WITH THREE KIDS, NOT ONLY THAT BUT MAKES ME FEEL VERY UNSAFE TRAVELING WITH THE KIDS IN THE CAR. I AM A SINGLE MOM AND BOUGHT THIS CAR BELIEVING IT WOULD BE SAFE AND RELIABLE. I'M ABOUT READY TO PUSH IT OFF A CLIFF. HOW MANY MORE COMPLAINTS WILL YOU IGNORE, CAUSING A FATAL ACCIDENT, BEFORE SOMETHING IS DONE ABOUT THIS?!?! I WILL NOT BE INVESTING IN ANOTHER GM VEHICLE THAT'S FOR SURE! SHOULD OF STUCK WITH FOREIGN!

RECENTLY, I STARTED HAVING PROBLEMS WITH MY DRIVER SIDE DOOR ELECTRIC WINDOW AND DOOR LOCK, NOT FUNCTIONING AT ALL UNLESS I PUSH THE DOOR OPENED. THIS WEEKEND THE WINDOW AND DOOR LOCK QUIT WORKING ALL TOGETHER. SINCE I HAVE AN ELECTRICAL BACKGROUND, I STARTED TROUBLESHOOTING THE PROBLEM. AFTER 20 MINUTES I FOUND THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM TO BE COMPLETELY BROKEN WIRES THAT ARE PART OF THE WIRING HARNESS RIGHT BEFORE IT GOES THROUGH THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR AND PROTECTED BY A RUBBER BOOT/SLEEVE . ALMOST ALL WIRES THAT ARE PART OF THE WIRING HARNESS AT THIS LOCATION WERE EITHER BROKEN AS I MENTIONED OR THE INSULATION WAS SO BRIDLE AND CRACKED THAT THE COPPER WIRE STRANDS WERE EXPOSED. I WOULD NOT EXPECT A VEHICLE BARELY OVER 50,000 MILES TO HAVE WIRES THAT ARE IN A LOCATION WHERE THEY ARE NOT EXPOSED TO HIGH TEMPERATURES, TO BE IN A CONDITION LIKE THIS. I TOOK A COUPLE OF PICTURES TO SUPPORT WHAT I AM WRITING. AS IT RELATES TO SAFETY AND BEING THAT I WORK IN THE ELECTRICAL FIELD, THIS COULD BE CONSIDERED AN ELECTRICAL FIRE HAZARD, IF THE EXPOSED WIRES EVER COME IN CONTACT WITH CHASSIS GROUND. *TR

STABILITRAK LIGHT AND WARNING SOUND HAS COME ON A FEW TIMES FOR NO RHYME OR REASON. SOME TIMES WILL SHAKE VEHICLE AS IT GOES DOWN THE ROAD AFTERWARDS. ALSO, WHEN PLUGGED IN AUXILIARY CORD FOR IPOD, SPARKS FLEW OUT FROM RADIO CONTROL STATION AND CAR DIED AS I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. MANAGED TO PULL OFF ROAD AND SAT FOR TEN MINUTES. RESTARTED CAR AND DROVE TO SAFE LOCATION AND HAD SOME ONE PICK ME UP. NEXT DAY, WENT TO PICK UP CAR AND NO ISSUES. CAR IS BECOMING UNRELIABLE WITH NOT ONLY THESE ISSUES BUT PREVIOUS COMPLAINTS I HAVE FILED WITH YOU. SHOULDN'T BE HAVING THESE TYPE ISSUES, ESPECIALLY SAFETY ONES, THIS SOON. CAR ONLY HAS A LITTLE OVER 120000 MILES. *TR