2004 Chevrolet Colorado

THE IGNITION WILL NOT START AT FIRST. IT TAKES MULTIPLE TIMES IN ORDER TO GET THE ENGINE TO TURN OVER. ONCE THE IGNITION DOES CAUSE THE ENGINE TO TURN OVER, THE VEHICLE WILL SUDDENLY LOSE POWER WHILE DRIVING AS THE VEHICLE SHUTS ITSELF OFF (AS IF THE IGNITION HAS BEEN TURNED OFF ALTHOUGH IT HAS NOT BEEN). THIS HAS HAPPENED ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS IN THE COURSE OF NORMAL DRIVING ACTIVITIES, SEVERAL TIMES WHILE CROSSING BUSY INTERSECTIONS WHICH LUCKILY HAS NOT RESULTED IN ANY CRASHES TO DATE, BUT MAY VERY WELL RESULT IN A POTENTIALLY FATAL ONE SHOULD IT CONTINUE TO OCCUR. ENGINE HAS BEEN TESTED AND ALL SYSTEMS CHECK OUT, EXCEPT FOR THE IGNITION SWITCH WHICH -WILL- HAVE TO BE REPLACED. *TR

TURN IGNITION TO OFF POSITION AND PARK INDICATOR LIGHT AND RADIO STAYS ON. HAVE TO JIGGLE KEY TO GET TO GO OFF. COME OUT SEVERAL HOURS LATER AND PARK INDICATOR LIGHT AND RADIO ARE BACK ON./ ALSO, HEAT AND AIR CONTROL FAN ONLY WORKS ON HIGH SPEED. I WAS TOLD IT WAS A RESISTOR ,I REPLACED RESISTOR AND IT STILL CONTINUES TO DO THIS. I CAN REACH DOWN AND JIGGLE THE RESISTOR AND IT WORKS ON ALL SPEEDS FOR A SHORT WHILE ONLY. HAVE A FRIEND WITH GMC CANYON THAT HAS HAD THIS PROBLEM SINCE HIS WAS NEW ALSO. *TR

2004 CHEVROLET COLORADO. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO ENGINE AND IGNITION SWITCH PROBLEMS. *SMD THE CONSUMER STATED ON APRIL 12, 2014, THE VEHICLE SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH. THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS HARD TO PUSH AND THE DASHBOARD READ REDUCED POWER. AFTER WAITING THREE MINUTES, THE CONSUMER WAS ABLE TO RE-START THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE STALLED AGAIN, AFTER DRIVING TWO MILES. ACCORDING TO THE SERVICE INVOICE, THE PCM COMPUTER WAS BAD.

2004 CHEVROLET COLORADO. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO A DEFECTIVE IGNITION SWITCH. *SMD THE CONSUMER STATED, HE PAID TO HAVE HIS IGNITION SWITCH REPLACED, AND IS SEEKING REIMBURSEMENT. HE STATED THERE WERE TIMES, WHEN THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT START, AND IT WOULD TAKE ANYWHERE FROM 20-30 MINUTES. OVER SEVERAL YEARS, HE TOOK THE VEHICLE TO THE DEALER, EXPLAINING THE PROBLEMS, WITH TRYING TO START THE VEHICLE. EACH TIME HE WAS TOLD BY THE SERVICE MANAGER, THE PROBLEM COULD NOT BE DIAGNOSE. EVENTUALLY, HE TOOK THE VEHICLE TO A REPAIR SHOP, AND THE PROBLEM WAS FINALLY DIAGNOSED AND THE IGNITION SWITCH WAS REPLACED. HE NO LONGER EXPERIENCED STARTING PROBLEMS. HOWEVER, IN SEPTEMBER 2013, HE DECIDED TO TRADE THE VEHICLE. *JB

I WAS MAKING A LEFT TURN AND I LET THE CLUTCH OUT A LITTLE TOO FAST WHICH STALLED THE ENGINE. I WENT TO RESTART AND ENGINE JUST CRANED OVER AND OVER WOULD NOT START. THAT IS WHERE I ALMOST GOT HIT. HAD TO PUSH TRK THRU INTERSECTION .I HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM WITH IT NOT RESTARTING FOR A FEW YEARS NOW.I HAVE TO WAIT 10 MINUTES BEFORE RESTARTING. IT HAPPENS INTERMITTENTLY WHEN I GO TO START IT DOES NOT START. IT JUST CRANKS OVER.THE BOOK SAYS ITS AN ANTI-THEFT SWITCH.I HAVE TO WAIT 10 MINUTES BEFORE RESTARTING.I HAVE SEEN ON CHEVY COLORADO TRK SITES THAT IT IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE IGNITION SWITCH. *TR

SOME TIMES, THE CAR WILL NOT START IF THE IGNITION KEY LOCK LIGHT BLINKS. I HAVE TO WAIT TEN MINUTES SO THAT IT STARTS I HAVE TAKING IT TO THE DEALER AND THEY HAVE SAID THAT IT HAS A FAULTY IGNITION HOUSING, OF COURSE THEY WANT TO CHARGE ME A LOT TO FIX IT. I BELIEVE IS A FACTORY DEFECT. MY TRUCK HAS A SALVAGE TITLE, SO THE WARRANTY ON IT WAS VOIDED. I HAVE HEARD OF OTHER CHEVY COLORADO TRUCKS WITH SAME PROBLEM. *TR

WITH THE REVELATION OF THE GM IGNITION RECALL PROBLEM, THERE ARE MUCH MORE IGNITION PROBLEMS THAT WERE NOT INCLUDED IN THE RECALL. THE PROBLEM IS IN THE IGNITION CYLINDER AND ALIGNMENT WITH THE PASSLOCK OR PASSKEY SENSOR. MY PROBLEM STARTED SHORTLY AFTER THE VEHICLE WENT OUT OF WARRANTY AND I WAS TOLD BY THE DEALER THAT IT WAS A $1000.00 REPAIR. I CAN NOT AFFORD $1000. SO I HAVE LIVED WITH IT. BECAUSE OF THE MISALIGNMENT IT CAUSES THE IGNITION TO THINK THAT THE VEHICLE IS STOLEN AND DISABLES THE FUEL INJECTORS, IT HAS LEFT ME STRANDED QUITE A FEW TIMES ALONG THE ROAD WAITING FOR THE COMPUTER TO MANUALLY RESET AFTER 10 MINUTES, IT HAS ALSO COST ME SEVERAL TOWING BILLS UNTIL I DID AN INTERNET SEARCH AND FOUND OUT HOW WIDESPREAD THIS ISSUE IS. IF THE MISALIGNMENT IS CAUSING THIS TO HAPPEN WHAT WILL IT AFFECT AS THE PROBLEM WORSENS. THIS ISSUE IS NOT COVERED BY THE CURRENT RECALL BUT DESERVES INVESTIGATING . [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

THIS INCIDENT OCCURRED TWICE. IT INVOLVES THE HEATER BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR ASSEMBLY. 8 YEARS AGO MY DAUGHTER USED PUT HER BACK PACK ON THE PASSENGER FLOOR WHERE IT REPEATEDLY MADE IMPACTED THE CONNECTION TO THE BLOWER MOTOR RELAY ASSEMBLY. THIS EVENTUALLY CAUSED THE PIN AND SOCKET ON THE ORANGE WIRE TO SEPARATE TO THE POINT WHERE IT ARCED AND BURNT. I FOUND AND REPAIRED THE SOCKET WHEN THE HEATER WOULD ONLY WORK ON HIGH. ON THE 16TH OF DEC 2013, A PASSENGER SIZE 12 SHOES ACCIDENTALLY, AND UNWITTINGLY KICKED THE SAME SPOT AND CAUSED THE SAME FAULT. I REPAIRED THE SOCKET AGAIN. MY COMPLAINT IS THE RESISTOR CONNECTION IS IN A SPOT TO EASILY SERVICE, BUT IT IS IN A VULNERABLE SPOT FOR ACCIDENTAL CONTACT. I BELIEVE IT NEEDS A ROBUST PROTECTIVE COVER, EITHER METAL OR PLASTIC. FOR PEOPLE THAT CANNOT REPAIR THEIR OWN VEHICLES, THIS SITUATION COULD COST THEM A COUPLE OF HUNDRED DOLLARS. MY OTHER ELECTRICAL FAULT IS THE RIGHT SIDE WINDOW MOTOR. IT QUIT WORKING COUPLE OF YEARS AGO, AND I WAS ABLE TO TAKE IT APART AND CLEAN THE BRUSHES. IT WORKED FOR A COUPLE OF YEARS UNTIL IT STOPPED A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO. I REPLACED THE MOTOR BECAUSE I COULD NOT FIND BRUSHES TO REPLACE. I AM CONVINCED THAT THE BRUSHES FAILED BECAUSE THEY WERE MADE BRITTLE FROM SLAMMING THE DOORS TOO HARD BY THE PASSENGERS. THE DOORS ARE LIGHT AND IT IS COMMON FOR THEM TO SLAMMED. THE BRUSHES OR THE MOTOR NEED TO BE MORE ROBUST. *TR