2011 Buick Regal

WHEN DRIVING THE VEHICLE, THE BRAKES BECOME SO HOT THAT THE ROTORS WILL GLOW RED. THIS WOULD NORMALLY BE A HUNG UP CALLIPER BUT IT SEEMS TO MOVE TO DIFFERENT SIDES OF THE CAR AND DIFFERENT WHEELS. UPON LETTING THE VEHICLE SIT FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME, THE ROTOR WILL COOL OFF. THE ONLY PROBLEM IS THAT YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN OR WHERE THE ROTORS WILL GET THAT HOT AND THE CARS DRIVING AND BRAKING ARE ADVERSELY AFFECTED.

MY DAUGHTER DRIVES OUR 2011 BUICK REGAL CXL THAT WE PURCHASED IN FEBRUARY 2016. IN THE LAST SEVERAL MONTH THE VEHICLE HAS STALLED, STEERING LOCKS UP, BRAKES GO COMPLETELY OUT, IT DOESN'T HAVE AN ELECTRICAL AND BECAUSE IT HAS AN ELECTRIC EMERGENCY BRAKE THERE IS NO WAY FOR HER TO STOP. THE FIRST TWO TIMES SHE WAS DRIVING AROUND TOWN AND THE LAST TIME IT HAPPENED WAS LAST WEEK AT 70 MPH ON THE HIGHWAY. SHE ALMOST HIT THE CAR IN FRONT OF HER. ONCE IT COASTED TO A STOP SHE WAS ABLE TO START IT AND CONTINUE ON. THIS GM VEHICLE 2011 BUICK REGAL IS A DEATH TRAP WAITING TO HAPPEN. DON'T BUY A BUICK!!! I PICKED IT UP FROM THE LOCAL BUICK DEALER YESTERDAY AND THEY CAN'T DO ANYTHING. ONCE THE VEHICLE IS RESTARTED AFTER ONE OF THESE INCIDENTS THE COMPUTERS AUTOMATICALLY RESETS AND WIPED CLEAN OF CODES WITHOUT ANY TRACE OF A PROBLEM OR ISSUE. ALL THE ERRORS COMPLETELY DISAPPEAR. THE SERVICE PERSON AT THE DEALERSHIP ASKED ME IF I HAD A DECODER I COULD PLUG IN RIGHT AFTER IT HAPPENS. THIS PROBLEM IS ALL OVER THE INTERNET AND BUICK DOES NOTHING. YOU CAN BET THAT A GM EXECUTIVE WOULD DECLINE AN OFFER FOR ONE OF HIS/HER FAMILY MEMBERS TO DRIVE IT FOR A WHILE. MAKE NO MISTAKE THESE CARS SHUT DOWN COMPLETELY WITHOUT ANY WARNING AND ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WORKS AT THE MOMENT. NO STEERING, NO BRAKES, STALLED ENGINE, AND NO ELECTRICAL. ABSOLUTELY NOTHING!!! ALL BUICK SAYS BASE ON ONLINE COMMENTS IS SORRY. SORRY FOR WHAT? KILLING PEOPLE? NOT GIVING A [XXX] ABOUT MY FAMILY OR YOURS? IF THEY WERE SORRY THEY'D STEP UP AND DO THE RIGHT THING BEFORE ITS TOO LATE AND SOMEONE DIES. INSURANCE COMPANIES ARE PROBABLY PAYING OUT LOTS OF MONEY TO THEIR INSURED AND THE PEOPLE THEY HIT, INJURE OR KILL. I BET THEY WOULD LOVE TO HEAR MORE ABOUT THIS ISSUE. BE CAREFULLY WHAT YOU BUY BECAUSE YOU MIGHT BE SURPRISED BY YOUR CAR RIGHT BEFORE YOU CRASH. I'VE ALWAYS LIKES GM AND BUICKS BUT NOT ANYMORE. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 BUICK REGAL. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE TAIL LIGHTS FAILED TO ILLUMINATE. THE BRAKE PEDAL HAD TO BE DEPRESSED TO THE FLOORBOARD IN ORDER FOR THE TAIL LIGHTS TO ILLUMINATE. THE DEALER DIAGNOSED THAT THE TAIL LIGHT SENSOR FAILED. THE TAIL LIGHT SENSOR AND BRAKE PADS WERE REPLACED; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE WAS NOT CORRECTED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 100,000.

I HAVE BEEN HAVING A PROBLEM WITH THE BRAKES STICKING ON MY 2011 BUICK REGAL FOR A COUPLE OF YEARS NOW. THE PROBLEM OCCURS WHEN THE WEATHER IS HOT, IN THE MIDDLE 80'S AND ABOVE AND MY CAR HAS BEEN SITTING CLOSED UP IN THE PARKING LOT AT WORK ALL DAY. I CAN RECREATE THE PROBLEM BY LEAVING IT OUT OF THE GARAGE IN THE SUN FOR SEVERAL HOURS. THIS IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS AND IS GETTING WORSE. AT FIRST IT CAUSED A DRAG ON THE BRAKES AND THE PEDAL WOULD NOT RETURN FULLY TO ITS PROPER POSITION. I HAVE TO USE MY LEFT FOOT TO PULL THE PEDAL BACK UP. NOW THE PEDAL REFUSES TO COME BACK UP AT ALL WHEN I TAKE MY FOOT OFF OF IT AFTER STARTING THE CAR AND THE BRAKE WARNING LIGHT ON THE DASH HAS COME ON A COUPLE OF TIMES. I AM EXTREMELY UNCOMFORTABLE DRIVING IT LIKE THIS. I HAVE TO PULL THE PEDAL BACK UP EVERY TIME I USE THE BRAKES ON THE WAY HOME. THE BRAKES WILL RETURN TO 'NORMAL' AFTER ABOUT 15 MINUTES BY WHICH TIME I AM ALMOST HOME.

MY BRAKE PEDAL IS STICKING CAUSING MY CAR TO STALL AND MY CRUISE CONTROL NOT TO WORK, I HAVE TO MANUALLY PULL MY BREAK PEDAL BACK UP AFTER I USE MY BRAKES WHILE DRIVING. MY CAR IS ALSO JUST DYING WITH NO WARNING, WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE INTERSTATE. MY LIGHTS, AND RADIO WILL STAY ON WHEN THIS HAPPENS, BUT MY AIR CONDITIONER AND ENGINE WILL CUT OFF. IT HAS HAPPENED OVER A HANDFUL OF TIMES IN THE LAST 3 WEEKS, IT'S GOTTEN TO THE POINT THAT I AM SCARED TO DRIVE IT ANYWHERE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 BUICK REGAL. WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, THE CONTACT HEARD A LOUD NOISE IN THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE REAR DRIVER SIDE BRAKE PAD WAS COMPLETELY ERODED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 33,300.

I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY, 78 MPH IN RUSH HOUR AND MY ENGINE DIED/NO POWER, NO BRAKES, NO STEERING. HEAVY TRAFFIC, NO CONTROL. I MADE IT TO SHOULDER, VERY DIFFICULT TO EASE THE VEHICLE OVER. NO WARNING LIGHTS. ENGINE JUST DIED. NO CONTROL. ONCE THE CAR STOPPED AFTER ROLLING AT A HIGH SPEED, I TRIED TO START MY ENGINE. ENGINE STARTED,AND ABLE TO PROCEED. NEXT DAY, SIMILAR INCIDENT HAPPENED I WAS TURNING A CORNER. THE SAME THING HAPPENED, I WAS GOING A LOWER SPEED. I HAD LESS CONTROL AFTER THE ENGINE DIED, NO WARNING LIGHTS ETC.VERY DIFFICULT TO MANEUVER. I TURNED THE KEY AND IT STARTED. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER. THEY SAID NEEDED OIL CHANGE, AND 3 QUARTS LOW ON OIL. AND I WAS 1000 MILES OVER . THEY WERE SENDING ME HOME WITH OIL CHANGE, I PLEADED TO LOOK INTO FURTHER AS I WAS IN FEAR OF MY LIFE DRIVING. THE SERVICE SHEET INDICATED THE CAR HAD MULTIPLE CAM ACTUATOR SYSTEM FAILURE CODES. THE SERVICE MANAGER SAID LOW ON OIL, AND WAS SAFE,HE WENT TO GET THE CAR. THE CAR STALLED ON HIM ...NO POWER, NO ALARMS,NO SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHTS, ETC. EVENTUALLY, I CONVINCED THEM TO GIVE ME A VEHICLE TO DRIVE AFTER INITIAL DENIAL. 1 WEEK LATER, THEY HAVE FOUND NOTHING WRONG. SAID EXHAUST CAM SHAFT ACTUATOR WAS BROKEN. THEY REPLACED THE TIMING CHAINS, THE ACTUATORS, AND SELENOIDS. STILL NO EXPLANATION WHY MY CAR DIED DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AT 78MPH THEY SAID SOMETIMES IT TAKES 3 FAILURES OR KEY CYCLES BEFORE AN ALARM WILL BE SET. NOT SURE IF THEY TRULY FOUND THE PROBLEM SO THEY HAVE ASKED TO DRIVE MY CAR FOR SEVERAL DAYS TO SEE IF THE DEFAULT CONTINUES TO SHOW UP. I AM VERY CONCERNED THAT AN ENGINE SHOULD STOP WHILE TRAVELING AT HIGH SPEEDS 3 TIMES BEFORE AN ALARM SYSTEM OR WARNING WOULD EVER BE GIVEN TO THE DRIVER THAT THERE MAY BE A PROBLEM. I AM STILL VERY CONCERNED AND AM NOT SURE IF I SHOULD BE DRIVING THIS VEHICLE OR NOT FOR FEAR OF MY LIFE.

MY CRUISE CONTROL AND BRAKE LIGHTS STOPPED WORKING AFTER HAVING A RECALL FIXED ON MY 2011 BUICK REGAL. THE RECALLS THAT WERE FIXED WERE AN OIL LIFE MONITOR CONTROL MODULE AND A TURN SIGNAL CONTROL MODULE. AFTER HAVING THIS FIXED, MY CRUISE CONTROL AND BRAKE LIGHTS NO LONGER ARE WORKING. I WAS PULLED OVER BY A POLICEMAN, OTHERWISE I DID NOT KNOW THEY WERE NOT WORKING WHILE I WAS DRIVING. THE BRAKES WILL COME ON ONCE I DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR OF THE CAR, BUT NOT WHILE DRIVING IN NORMAL CONDITIONS. I COULD HAVE BEEN REAR ENDED SEVERAL TIMES, AS THERE WAS NO INDICATION THAT THE LIGHTS WERE NOT WORKING. *TR

VEHICLE DROVE FINE NIGHT BEFORE, WHEN ATTEMPTING TO DRIVE AWAY THE NEXT MORNING IT FELT LIKE THE BRAKES WERE DRAGGING, PARTIALLY ON, NOTED BRAKE PEDAL IN DEPRESSED POSITION. CHECKED PARKING BRAKE TO ENSURE IT WAS NOT ENGAGED, JACKED UP EACH TIRE ONE AT A TIME AND NOTED DRAG ON ALL THE WHEELS. LEFT THE VEHICLE AS IS FOR A COUPLE HOURS THEN IT WOULD NOT START, ACTED LIKE A DEAD BATTERY. CHARGED BATTERY AND HAD IT CHECKED UNDER LOAD AT O'RIELLY'S AUTO PARTS UNDER LOAD..BATTERY TESTED GOOD. REINSTALLED BATTERY AND CAR STARTED, NO WARNING LIGHTS OR MESSAGES. BRAKE PEDAL HAD RETURNED TO UPRIGHT POSITION, TEST DROVE THE CAR AND IT DROVE AND BRAKED FINE. GOOD PEDAL, NO DRAG. ABOUT 2 WEEKS LATER ON JULY 2,2014 BRAKE PEDAL HAD DROPPED AGAIN ON IT'S OWN AND BRAKES WERE AGAIN DRAGGING. BATTERY AND ELECTRICS WERE NO ISSUE THIS TIME. LET CAR SIT FOR 4 DAYS WHILE OUT OF TOWN AND WHEN RETURNED BRAKES AND PEDAL OK. DROVE IMMEDIATELY TO BUICK DEALER AND PROVIDED THEM WITH SERVICE BULLETIN 338152 AND NHTSA ACTION NUMBER 10045319 WHICH APPEARS TO COVER THE EXACT SITUATION. I AM WAITING FOR A RESPONSE. *JS

SIX MONTHS AFTER PURCHASING THIS USED VEHICLE (WITH 29,000 MILES ON IT) IT COMPLETELY STALLED ON THE INTERSTATE WHILE DRIVING ABOUT 65 MPH. IT STARTED BRAKING BY ITSELF MAKING IT DIFFICULT TO GET TO AN EMERGENCY PULL OFF AREA. THIS COULD HAVE CAUSED A SERIOUS ACCIDENT CONSIDERING IT WAS RUSH HOUR. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP WHERE THEY TOLD ME THAT THE "THROTTLE BODY" NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. AFTER GETTING IT REPAIRED THE CAR DROVE FINE UNTIL THIS YEAR. AT ABOUT 55,000 MILES MY CAR WOULD START SHAKING VERY HARD, BRAKE PEDAL WAS ALMOST TO THE FLOOR, AND IT WAS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE ACCELERATE. I HAD TO PULL OVER AND RESTART THE CAR. THIS HAPPENED ATLEAST 4 TIMES. EVENTUALLY MY CAR STALLED OUT ON ME AGAIN WHILE DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE. ONCE AGAIN THIS FEBRUARY THE DEALERSHIP BLAMED IT ON THE "THROTTLE BODY" AND A POWERLINE THAT WAS "COMPLETELY CORRODED". AFTER HAVING THEM REPLACED, IT DROVE OK FOR ONLY A COUPLE OF MONTHS. THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN IN JUNE MY CAR STARTED SHAKING VERY BADLY WHILE DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE AND I NOTICED THAT MY BRAKE WAS STUCK I PUT MY FOOT UNDER THE BRAKE PEDAL TO POP IT OUT AND THE CAR THEN DROVE OK. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND GO FIGURE THE "THROTTLE BODY" NEEDED TO BE REPLACED, BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER HAD TO BE REPLACED, BRAKE VACUUM BOOSTER NEEDED SERVICE, BRAKE FLUID SYSTEM HAD TO BE FLUSHED, AND THE ENGINE AIR FILTER NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. I WALKED AWAY WITH A $300 BILL BECAUSE THE WARRANTY ONLY COVERED SOME OF THE PROBLEMS. ONE WEEK LATER WHILE IT WAS POURING RAIN I WAS DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE AND MY CAR COMPLETELY STALLED FOR THE 3RD TIME. A TRACTOR TRAILOR ALMOST LOST CONTROL TRYING TO PREVENT HITTING ME AS I SLID OFF THE INTERSTATE. ONCE I WAS SAFE I TRIED TO RESTART IT AND THE KEY BROKE OFF IN THE IGNITION. NOW THE IMMOBILIZER MODULE HAS TO BE REPLACED. PLEASE NOTE THAT I KEEP THE MAINTENANCE UP ON THIS VEHICLE. *TR